Jim881

So did some digging around and bought these. Axle stands are overkill but they go up to 560mm for plenty of clearance. The 2 ton ones only went up tp 420mm. Treated myself to a decent low profile jacl too. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Hi all, I am pretty much ready to remove the rear subframe of my gen 7 and am looking at purchasing a decent high trolley jack as my Halfords one only goes up to 380mm which has always been to low really. I would also like some tips on supporting the car while i prep the underside. The sills will be coming off so any tips on how to get the car at a decent working height would be appreciated. Jim Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Download failed for me mate. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Link doesn't work mate. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Masking tape [emoji3] Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Degreased and masked up. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk 3 coats of epoxy primer. Need to wait 7 days now for it to fully harden. Then polybush and then a final coat of bedliner. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Took a while but it worked brilliantly!! Juts need to order my primer, cavity wax and bushes. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Home made bath for the bits. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I've just manged to strip down one side fully. Just in the process of getting a bath fir deox c solution and then onto painting. Think I'm going down the por15 route. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Well I got the camber bushes fully out, and managed to remove the hub assy (angle grinder) just need to remove the bush similar to the camber ones from the control arm and a snapped screw in a nut. (Don't know what this is for yet) I also noticed there are sleeves in the hub assy so have emailed strongflex. The bushes that come for that part doesnt come with a new sleeve but they didn't mention its only the front brush bracket sleeve that needs keeping. Thought I would double check. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I don't have one of those unfortunately [emoji17] Aww no.....I thought the green portion highlighted was part of the camber arm......mine looks like it should be....... Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I suppose its gonna be a case of cleaning them all up and waiting until I get my new bushes. Its not as if I can accidently push one of the sleeves out. I started last night and its going to keep me busy for a while. Got all the nuts off one side just need to remove the bolts now. Borrowed a decent mapp had blowtorch so shouldn't take too long. I'll take pictures throughout incase anyone else in the future has similar questions. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Hey, Thanks for the tips. I must admit I'm not looking forwatd to starting it, but ill be satisfied once I'm done. In the pictures above. I presume the top picture is the bush that goes in the bracket? Did you need a new sleeve for that one or did you keep the old one in? (The strongflex guide says that one needs keeping) Also on the bottom picture the bush at the top. Is that a fully assembly or does the metal sleeve come off? I'm wondering when I time that bush will the old sleeve come out at the same time? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Also if anyone has any spare brackets it would be greatly appreciated. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Hi all, I am in the process of collecting all the bits for a rear suspension swap. I want to remove the old bushes and just wondered if its only this one below that has a metal sleeve that needs to be kept in? Also has anyone got any tips to get them out and getting the new ones in? I've got loads of plus gas and a blow torch. I've heard the best way is to heat the metal around the bush rather than on it to stop making a gooey, smoking mess. Also has anyone had experience using the strongflex polybushes? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

This is true mate but ive got one hell of a shopping list to sort the back end. The worst one being those back plates [emoji1785]. When i get them my mate is gonna run the dimensions though CAD and see if we can make some. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I've emailed the rimstyle. The company I bought them from to ask for advice. Hopefully wont have to fork out for new ones..... Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

That's weird. Pulled this from driftworks website; Double Drilled PCD Notes: When using the larger of the two pcds on JR double drilled wheels, you will require slim style internal drive wheel nuts/bolts - we have plenty of these available in the wheel nuts & bolts section here. I've already got some nuts fitted to the wheels at the moment but I read that as if I needed a different type. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Mate.....what a fantastic idea. Yeah, mine are 5x100/114.3 Didn't even think of that!! I'm gonna get looking for spacers. Thanks mate. Just a question. I've read somewhere the 114.3 will require a different style of nut compared to the ones I have fitted on the 100 stud pattern. Do you know if this is right? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Hi mate, I ran 6mm because I think I will have enough thread left without having to change studs, as it seems a right job to do...... I think I need to find a 6mm with a 54.1 bore and hubcentric ring, which is something I have only seen on hubcentric spacers. Like I said before, I could just cut my original studs and run my 17mm but I know I'll get rubbing with 215 tyres so I'm trying to avoid this. 10mm spacers would be a perfect size. What changing the studs on the rear as awkward as everyone makes out? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

So I bought the 6mm spacer (variable centre bore) and their isnt enough centre bore left to locate the wheel on so I've left them off. I was thinking if I buy a set with the same centre bore, 54.1 this should locate perfectly on the centre bore on the wheel and hub itself. What do you guys think? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

So it looks like there should be a minimum of 8 full turns for m12 1.5. That means I needs 12 turns to fit 6 mm spacers. As a standard bolt is 26mm that means there should be 17 turns on a standard bolt (26/1.5) If I remove 6mm for the spacer that will take off 4 turns. Which now leaves 13 turns left. As I need a minimum of 8 turns as long as the brake disc on the front is not thicker than 5 turns worth (7.5mm) it should be ok. Does that sound about right? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

That makes since mate. With a pitch of 1.5mm, 6mm would technically remove 4 full rotations of the nut. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

I'm not sure but I think if its over 6mm there isn't any centre bore left to locate the wheel. Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

@Kev 16v Just a question mate. I'm looking at running spacers on the front. What size can we get away with safely 5 or 6mm buddy? Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk