rpsmith79
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Posts posted by rpsmith79
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Probably mostly the early Gen guys
Mister C has a Celica Sunchaser which is pretty rare, similar to ORC's Avon but is basically a Gen 2 vert
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I was about to say, they look fine without a centre cap, until you showed your drive shaft sticking out the end
I can't help but think that a big disc covering the lot would look a bit naff, might be best looking at something like the standard Gen 7 centre caps or Hilux ones and making some sort of adapter to make them fit over the driveshaft
I just did a similar thing with my ST170 wheels, they had a horrible centre cap, so i got rid and managed to find a bung that filled the centre hole perfectly, luckily the drive shaft wasn't sitting proud though
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Stick up a photo of the wheels, someone might be able to think up another solution
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im looking for some wheel nuts, can anyone send me links of nuts they recommend please
been also looking at some locking wheel nuts too if anyone can point me to some also
Depends what wheels you have got, if you are using standard Mr T wheels you will need to stick with the standard flat seated style nuts, if you have aftermarket wheels then look for some steel M12x1.5 60 degree taper nuts
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I had the exact same tuner ones on my 5, had them on for 12 months with the wheels on and off every few months for a clean, and did one track day
Never had a problem with them at all
The only nuts i would be worried about id aluminium ones, there is very little chance in sheering steel nuts unless you use a 10 foot breaker bar
Aren't some tuner nuts ally,which are to be avoided?
Yes, this x1,000,000
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If the bottom end has gone then your engine will have very limited life till it goes pop, or rather just grinds to a halt, but if it has gone you won't save the engine by not driving on it, it will just gradually get worse
What sort of rattle is it, high pitch, metallic, low knocking noise, is it speed or revs related
Very difficult to diagnose over an internet forum to be fair
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Hmmm, rattling under load can be an indication of bottom end failure, i know that is what the symptoms of mine were, i hope that is not the case though
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There aren't many other hoses there other than the 2 main rad hoses are there
Or are you talking about all the vacuum lines, if so you don't need a kit, you just need to buy xx meters of silicone vacuum hose and cut it to length, just measure the bore of the vac lines and buy the appropriate size silicone hoses
The Gen 5 3SGE is 4mm and 8mm bore i believe, but make sure you buy 3mm wall hose otherwise it will collapse under vacuum pressure if you buy the cheap 2mm wall stuff
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It's just not worth the risk IMO, even if you have winter tyres on your own car, it only takes one idiot who hasn't to crash into your car, and since most of our cars on getting on these days (Gen 6 and older) most would end up getting written off for minor damage)
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After my first year with the Gen 5 in the snow and it moving no where, i've used my feet and public transport the 3 years since that
But anyone who knows Sheffield will know it's just one hill after another no matter where you live
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Never done it but would think investing in a heat gun is prob preferable to get the best out of doing it , think they pretty cheap
This x10, i tried many times with a hair dryer and it it's just not worth the wasted vinyl for the £20 it costs for a heat gun
Hexis is probably the most expensive vinyl suppliers in the UK yet one of the best. You can buy direct from them. My advice is if you're wanting to learn, don't depend on self tutorial, trial and errors and youtube. Go and do a course because there is a lot more science involved which you must understand in order to be a pro.
I think the whole point in him doing it himself is to save money Ray, if he was going to spend several hundred pounds on training he may as well pay someone else to do it
And i managed easily enough with no official training
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cheapest supliers are on ebay actually and the more you buy the cheaper it becomes
I am always a bit wary about eBay sellers selling Hexis vinyl cheap as most seem to sell it cheaper than you can actually buy it from Hexis, even on their cheapest trade tariff
I have been sold fake Hexis before, but that was when i was starting out and didn't have a trade account with Hexis
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where from Rich?
Just my local tyre place, and that was fitted and balanced too
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These are what i just bought
http://www.tyrerevie...alken/ZE914.htm
Rolling Resistance E
Wet Grip B
And it £65 per corner for 215/45/17 not a bad price
And in my book that equates to lots of dry grip, and pretty damn good wet grip too
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It's a shame though, that tread looks great
Are you for real, are you seriously looking at which tyres look nicer
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last forever, almost no wear on the ones i had in nearly 10k flip side is braking distance is huge and grip in the wet doesn't exist
I had to do an emergency stop with these and thought I was going to die
Yep, long lasting tyres are long lasting for a reason, they are made of cheap hard compound rubber, for grip you want softer compound rubber
And i know the number one thing i look for in tyres is how well they grip as that is the only thing holding my car on the black stuff, all those other things the OP mentioned are secondary IMO
Although saying that i really don't get these new ratings (A-F), especially the Economy (Rolling resistance) one, surely it should be the other way round and be called Grip
The last tyres i bought were rated Economy E, that equals grip in my book
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I suppose i was more hinting to the point of a corp member who is called DNA Motorsport is promoting the use of OBD2 apps to give BHP readings, you'd think they would know better, but after reading another thread on here i can see why now
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The diagnostic port cannot tell the bhp or torque of the engine
Also, the scanner has nothing to do with what data the ECU outputs via the OBD2 port, the port is for diagnostic use and outputs engine parameters, BHP and torque are not engine paramaters
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The Dash Command reads nearly every sensor on the car from bhp- torque-fuel to name a few.
Fuel level-Fuel range in miles and lots more.
Also, i'd love to know what OBD2 scanner can read BHP and Torque from the engine diagnostics................ and you call yourself DNA Motorsports
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The iphone as far as im awear only connects with wifi with the readers bluetooth is very restricted on the iphone
Yet another iphone fail
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What's wrong with the bluetooth readers? About a tenner on average - why go to expense of wifi if you're using your phone to read them? Hell, with a bt dongle for £2 online or £4 from Tesco, why wifi at all? I have a bt reader, use it with the phone or the netbook (though mostly the latter).
+1, just get a cheapo bluetooth one for a tenner, i got one for the ST170 and it works a treat with the Torque App (like £3 off the Google Play store)
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I can't believe no one has mentioned your earth yet
Get your earth wire checked (undo and clean all of the contacts), then for good measure add another one (doesn't really matter where to, just add another chuncky gauge wire to the engine block and/or chassis)
90% of engine electrical problems are down to a poor earth connection
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Yep, all 5's had those fitted, whether they had Live Sound up front or not
Nothing to get excited about unfortunately
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red one with roll cage? Plus the turbo is that big it protrudes above the bonnet!?
Yep, sounds like the same one, not read it much recently, last i heard he had done himself a nasty injury, something like chopping off a finger i think, but i don't have a subscription to the OC anymore
Rare - special cars within the club
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
If the WRC is rare, then the CR/RC must be rare too, personally i don't think they are that rare, with 5000 being made it's hardly that rare, i know a fair few will have been written off by now, but not rare by the Sunchaser/Avon standards