bazz54
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Posts posted by bazz54
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White spirit works well on tar and seems perfectly ok on paintwork. I think the stuff halfords sell is just that but costs lots more than the White spirit you can buy in any DIY store.
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Although I own adjustable wrenches, they are the wrong thing to use on anything that is seized. No matter how tightly you think you have adjusted them, they always have some give in them and are good for rounding corners off nuts and bolts. When I took off the front calipers on mine, I started off using a good quality ring spanner, which was a good fit, but didn't have enough leverage. So I used two big jubillee clips (sort of thing that goes on a rad hose) to fix a length of scrap metal tube on to the ring spanner to create an extension bar and that did the trick.
I really hate having other people work on my cars, but there are times when you do think that something like gardening would be an easier 'hobby'
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Took about 10 seconds to fix a stuck PCV valve in my ST202 with Brake and clutch cleaner, a quick spray freed up the ball bearing almost immediately.
Thanks for that!
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how be this "garage" man getting his ideas???? How lean is lean? What be the colour of your plugs; should be light biscuity brown if good, but more whitish or even glazed if lean (old Haynes repair manuals for all cars used to have a series of pictures which showed the trend). What be the colour of yee tail pipe; should be black or mid-grey if normal, or lighter grey if lean, but not as indicative as ye plugs. These old "garage" men can be villains when the find a young lad like you.
I be a young lad too once and they did me good and proper. Car was overheating, so they just took the thermostat out and said they'd fixed it. That be one Mr Nudd back in 1976 - I ain't forgotten or forgiven him. I didn't realise what had gone on for quite a while, until I too had become an old (automotive) seadog. Damn their black hearts to hell!
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I've never met any woman who did not think the Gen7 looks good....except maybe some female owners of Gens 1-6 :rolleyes: Of course, the latter would say it is a girls' car anyway!
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is the gauge you are looking at the one that's part of the hose which connects the can? If so, might have something to do with the valve in the low pressure port connector closing and the can being empty? If the air con is working, there has to be at least 20psi in there or else the AC clutch wouldn't go in....and it wouldn't feel cold.
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I've measured temps as low as 6'C (just by the vent) on a hot day. As I have said soooo many times, DIY cans are a false economy :rolleyes: To do diagnostics, you really need gauges on both the low and high pressure sides and then there are "logic" tables that you can use to figure out what goes. Try www.AA1car.com Think you should see 25-45psi on low side in a good system and 170-190 on high side with ambient temp of 25'C. When you use cans, the high pressure can be too high because there is air (less compressible)in there and compressors dooo hate that.
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To check for opperation you can nip the rubber hose with pliers at idle, you should hear a metal ball tap noise.
As for parraffin, may damage the internals?
if it aint broke 
Agreed, worth checking to see if OK, if so, leave well alone
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The PCV valve at the back of the engine list cost is £19.67 + VAT and the part number is T12204-22051.
Paraffin first then
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Hi planc; would be interesting if you can find it; looks like it should be a couple of quid but ....???
Also looks like it should be easy to clean; it's just a one way valve but can get gummed up with oil vapour/dirt, hence some people using the little catch tanks. If it were stuck, 5 mins in some paraffin might well work.
Being a pre-face lift owner, anything that helps keep oil sweet is of interest.
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There are a number threads on US forums urging the periodic replacement of these valves, even though it is not in the Toyota schedule. The argument is that these valves clog, the PCV does not work properly and oil quality deteriorates more quickly. There are even suggestions that this is a factor in the Death Rattle issue.
Apparently, an oem valve in the States is about $10 and a pattern part $5 ( link), but a Google search for UK parts came up with prices of up to £40! Has anyone replaced a Celica PCV, and if so, where did you buy and how much was it?
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Think I have sorted it. I started by trying a drop of meths. When the stain was wet with meths, it was perfectly clear, but became opaque again as the meths dried, and the stain was not washed off. The only stuff I had in the garage in terms of a light polish was some household metal polish - known from previous jobs to be much milder than T-Cut, so I decided to try that on a tiny area. Worked brilliantly; pretty much sorted I think. Finished off with one of Autoglym's plastic care prods.
Gen6GT, wasn't saying petrol was a problem, just that it definitely was not sticker residues. Having watched 1000's of "Crime Scene CSI" episodes, I now have the degree equivalent in splatter patterns. Lets say a small egg hit the cover dead central and then spread out in all directions; you get the picture. Now lets suggest a cat peed on the lens and that splattered out in all directions; I rest my case. Suspect the heat from the headlight caused it to dry rock hard, or chemically react with the plastic. Bad pussy; retribution will follow! First time I'd realised those covers are plastic not glass. Thanks for the suggestions - mild polish did it.
As for superglue on a cover; acetone does superglue but suspect it will also do the cover. In your shoes, I'd try a 50/50 mix of water and meths soaked in to something very absorbent (ask wife/girlfriend/mother) and keep it fixed on there overnight, then see what the edge of credit card does.
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Sounds like adhesive left after a sticker or something like has been removed. Try a rag soaked in a little petrol, that might do the job.
No Gen6; you can see that something was spilled, poured or "sprayed". Need a little caution; don't want to make any worse as bet they cost something silly.
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I'm not sure what the recommended torque is for the plug, but the aluminium washers supplied are annealed, i.e. metallurgically soft (that's why they are always made of aluminium, or copper on some makes) and so you get best sealing if you pinch them so that they are compressing (and conform to any scratches/distortion on the sealing face), but should not be flattened to buggery, by which time they have become hard.
If that's done, using a new washer each time, they might not need a breaker bar to tighten or loosen them...even if you are a lady with a Gen6
Bet it is not difficult to damage the sump drain port threads! -
The plastic front of one of my Gen7 headlights has a strange opaque area which I initially though might be dried cat piss, but it won't wash off in warm soapy water. Scratching it with a finger nail seems to do some good along a narrow line. It sort of looks like some kind of solvent has been spilled there. Not at all sure what happened by I think is will need some sort of polishing to get it clear.
Anyone have any ideas what best to do
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I'm sure that my 140 takes less than 2 litres for a refil. I personally believe that the single biggest reason for using fully synthetics is their superior flow when really cold. It all goes back to the old business of more wear occurring during the first 10 minutes when cold than the next 3 hours on the motorway.
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Question that arises about all the "wax" coverings is how good are they are neutralising the rust that's already there. A lot of the older "underseal" products allowed rust to flourish beneath them - out of sight and out of mind. Where you cannot get access to paint a surface (eg inside sills) stuff like Waxoyl is probably good, but where you can get access, isn't painting with a good anti-rust paint better, though may take more effort?
My Gen 7 is now 9 years old so this is begining to be an issue for me.
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If there was air in there, it would feel soft to begin with, then firmer as you go further down, as the air gets compressed. Did they replace both the clutch plate and the pressure plate? You don't have to replace the pressure plate if its ok but it is always a good idea given the huge amount of work involved in going back in a second time if it turns out to be faulty. A clutch should never feel softer at the bottom so this suggestion that "they all feel like that" is not right.
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The question always comes up as to whether to buy the simple bending beam type or the complicated dial gauge type. On a limited budget, there is an argument that says the bending beam is the one to go for. I bought a Draper bending beam wrench years ago and it has been perfectly satisfactory. Some people say that they are not sufficiently accurate, but when you get in to the whole business about how the cleanliness (or lack of it) of threads greatly affects torque measurements, great accuracy is not really required.
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A few years ago a new formulation of antifreezes came in to use specifically to protect aluminium engines, this is called 'organic acid technology' OAT, often referred to as long-life; think it checks out on Wiki. Problem is that every manufacturer had its own colour code system; Toyota did 2 variations one being pink and one red. Blue suggests that yours may have been filled with non-OAT stuff. I think it's generally thought best not to mix them, so may be best to top up with more standard antifreeze until you get around to a complete drain and refil with pink or red.
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Toyota do a simular product for a simular price. when taxi drivers have come in with problems we give them a free bottle and say if it works come back and buy some, they return and buy a box of six.
Must work if a taxi driver shells out over 60 quid.
But bazz I agree you have to weigh up the odds. But you don't use a bottle every tankfull.
I think some are probably better than others; there is a range of products made by a US outfit called Jostice Brothers which stand out as having some more unusual and "impressive" ingredients but I think they are intended for professional use and are not well known in the UK. Of course, one function of some of these additives is getting cars through the MoT when they might otherwise have failed on emissions
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Whenever I hear about some fantastic additive the first thing I do is try to find the Materials Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) for it because that tells you something about what it is made of. The MSDS for 44k is available online and based on the info it contains I find it really hard to believe that it is anything special or is going to be a particularly good cleaner. Adding a can to your tank may make the engine feel good while it is still around, but lasting benefits...? Work out what it costs per gallon. Not for me thanks.
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I was looking at this problem recently; found that a 6mm drill will pass through the locating holes but a 7mm won't and so I bought thesewhich look good but haven't got around to trying them yet.
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Whatever else you do, keep the oil and oil filter in spec. Most people on here are changing the oil more frequently than the Toyota recommendation. Your Gen7 is 9 years old; could that still be a pre-facelift, as then the oil is even more impoprtant.
Tar :(
in General Celica Discussion
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No don't use T cut; that really is harsh; it is an abrasive. The spirit will have taken off polish/ wax but should easily polish back up.