bazz54
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Posts posted by bazz54
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I'm pleased to find out that Walkers list a system for the 140 Gen7, which is interesting because I'm anticipating the need to replace my original Gen7 exhaust before very long (now 14 years old) and don't want to pay Mr T in gold for an OEM one. Probably worth a call to Walkers to ask where to buy.
As is described in the thread currently going on in the Gen7 sub-forum, going for a custom-made stainless system is not always a good move. The word "tuning" springs to mind.
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saloon.??...
...AFAIK...Surely any garage can buy in a Walker system and fit it.?Neil
Saloon - yep, this was originally posted in the 'non-Celica' subforum, but I think the Mods thought it would get more attention if moved here.
I agree, you can get a garage to do it, but you get stung for labour charges which you don't get if you go to one of the usual tyre/exhaust "Shops". The latter are generally quoting about £120 for my system, whereas Halfords want £189. One of the Shops told me that Walkers are no longer available in the UK...which is a 'fib'
! In the past, I've fitted exhausts myself, but for £120 supplied and fitted, I'm happy to have someone else do it.B
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I need to replace the exhaust on my saloon, which was a Walkers system and lasted 7 years, which seems pretty good. Does anyone know of a fitters which supply this make? Thanks.
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Are you going to strip the whole wheel or just do the bad bits? If the latter, what I have used in past are the small (cheap) tins of Humbrol enamel paint intended for model makers; I think they do a number of different silvers of different shades.
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No one has mentioned it, but it is important with aluminium to start off with primer coat using a paint intended for aluminium. The last time I painted aluminium I think I used an aerosol etch primer made by Clostermann and that seems to have lasted.
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Get some red oxide paint, that has chemicals within it that reacts with rust and counteracts it, it's expensive but is good stuff
The original red oxide paints contained lead, but have now been very much restricted (banned?), so the term "red oxide" now mainly refers to the colour of the paint. Though it's generally accepted that "Red Oxide" paints are rust/corrosion resistant, any two of them could fairly different. All that said, Screwfix do a a very inexpensive Red Oxide, which brushes on and takes to surfaces very well (some paints seem "stodgy" by comparison), and I've not used it on a car, but it does seem to have done well on other stuff that gets left outside.
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Picking up from the thread in the Gen7 sub-forum which suggests that corrosion on 7's (rear sub-frames and petrol tanks) is now becoming an issue, I'm curious about what people currently think are the best paints for dealing with such problems.
A couple of people on that thread say they'll be using Hammerite, and in the past I would have agreed with them; Hammerite used to be the dog's danglies. But lots of paints have had their formulations changed in recent years to suit health/safety/environment requirements, and in the case of Hammerite's "direct to metal paint", I'm not sure it's as good as it used to be. I recall seeing comments on other car forums that the current formulation is hard/brittle and does not do well where the component is subject to flexing or stone impact(?).
I do have quite a good opinion of Hammerite's "Rust Beater", which I think is a completely different product to the direct to metal stuff. As my 7 is coming up on 14 years old , I probably need to take a look at the chassis when the weather gets better.
B
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I just looked at that site and got up the details for my other car which is a Rover 600. It said exactly the same thing - most failures on lights/electrical and then on suspension. On the R600 owners forum, the number one risk of MoT fail is always regarded as the handbrake. As yet, my Gen7 has never failed. As suggested above, that data might tell you more about owners than cars.
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When it comes to the compatibility of rubbers with fuels, intuition is not always a good guide. Who would have expected that too much bio-diesel in diesel or ethanol in petrol in ordinary fuel could have the really bad effects on some rubbers which it has? Seeing as the hose will not be permanently wetted, I suspect you could get away with it. Personally, I'd rather have the right material; is the issue cost or availability?
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I don't recommend putting any sort of quick fix rad seal or such, as it can also block your heater matrix.
Agreed; maybe OK for cars on their last legs...or about to be sold
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Use genuine Toyota for life coolant, it's the best stuff, the 7 is a pain to bleed and u probably are just working the air lock out.
Yep! If it is not leaking, I bet it is slowly taking more as it purges out air.
As for boiling points above 120'C, well all conventional coolants are 50% water, so how much higher than 120 can the boiling point go, and how often would you ever experience that? I've never changed the thermostat in a Gen7, but on every other car I've ever worked on the stats are usually begin to open around 90'C. So short of a track day, or being stuck in traffic on a really hot summer day, I would have thought 120 was OK ?
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There can be significant differences between types of coolant, but they would not account for coolant loss. Up until a few years ago, pretty much all coolant antifreeze was ethylene glycol with certain corrosion inhibitors -really important for aluminium engines like ours. Then some new mixtures came out with better corrosion resistance (supposedly!!!). To id the two types, the companies brought in colour-code systems, but different manufacturers used different colours. The simplest thing to do is stick with toyota coolant of the same colour as was in originally; it has been suggested that mixing the two may cause corrosion problems. But if you are losing it, there has to be a leak somewhere.
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I am sure that I have heard suggestions a number of times that Vaseline is harmful (long term) on rubber. On very thin rubber, I think it does damage quite fast!
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The term "conditioner" is ambiguous and may mean different things to different people. I believe it refers to so-called pulsers and I have one which is sold either a kit of parts or ready assembled by a company in Scotland called Courtistown Marine, which I really think does work and serves to break down sulphate deposits which accumulate as a battery ages, or worse still, is unused for a period of time.
However, the reality seems to be that alternators operate so that much of the time, your battery is only partially charged (maybe 50-75%), but with an older battery, or if you do lots of short runs, it may even be less. Deep discharging greatly reduces the life of batteries and so every 4-6 weeks, I connect a charger to mine and get them right up to full charge; sometimes they don't need much, other times they will take 15-20 amp hours of charge.
Other thing is that if you look after a battery it should last 5-6 years (the OEM ones often last appreciably more), and my view is that when it's clear they are deteriorating, don't mess about; replace them and keep the old one as possible back-up while it still has some life left in it.
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I have Goodyear Ultragrip winter tyres on my saloon and very happy with them; got them at a good price from a French (think that winter tyres are compulsory over there so they may be cheaper cos they sell more) online outfit called pneus, who have fitting network in the UK. Winter tyres will wear really fast in warmer temperatures so you will need to take them off around March; I keep 2 sets of wheels to save hassle.
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There is no exact way of knowing how much you need because you have to bleed until you 'guesstimate' you have flushed through; if you are lucky, you might be able to see a colour change between old and new. But based on my experience of doing it on the Gen7, I think Opie is right and that 1.5L should give you a margin, though a 2 litre pack barely costs more. DOT3, 4 and 5.1 are all interchangeable glycol based fluids as distinct from 5 which is silicone. Toyota now only supply 5.1, but the Gen7 was designed to use DOT 4 and that's what I stuck with.
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Try here; Got my winter tyres from them.
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Although I can't offer an exact answer, I'm sure the issue of torque is more complex than just compensating for the coefficient of friction. Factors like loading and extension come in to play.
What I do have experience of in regard to stainless steel fasteners is that of pickup or galling, i.e. the tendency of stainless steel parts to "friction weld" themselves together. This may not be relevant here, but it can be real problem; to avoid it you have to use either PTFE tape or a suitable lubricant on threads.
Overall, I am not sure that going to stainless is a great idea on a standard engine. For cosmetic purposes, getting ordinary steel fasteners plated with nickel may be an idea.
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Depends on how bad it is and that can be hard to find out until you get a wire brush on it. Provided you still have a good thickness of metal left you need a good rust neutralising paint. 18 years ago I bought a house with an incredibly badly rusted tank for the central heating oil. I thought it was useless but painted it with Hammerite and it is still in use today; guess what I use of the cars?
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Including VAT and delivery, that charger is ~£110 which is far more than I would ever pay for a charger. It isn't even clear what it's maximum charge rate is; I would want at least 5 amps, pref 8 amps. I normally use a battery charger once every ~6 weeks or so just to ensure the batteries in my cars are fully charged (it is well established that they last much longer if you avoid letting them get below 50% charge). Just depending on how much they have been used, they sometimes prove to be just about fully charged by the alternator, but will sometimes take quite a lot of charge. I just use a bog standard 5 amp charger and ensure it doesn't over charge by keeping an eye on it and using a cheap plug-in mains timer.
Regarding the battery voltage; that is very dependent on temperature, so saying that it should be a minimum of this or that is a bit uncertain. The key issue is that a battery will continue to give at least 9.5 volts or so during cold cranking and that really needs a load tester to assess it (about £30).
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Is this anything than more spray on varnish? Varnish has been used as an insulator/corrosion protector for decades, especially stuff like military radios for use in tropical locations.
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I hit a bird (in another car)and bits got through to the radiator so there was a nice smell of cooking meat for the rest of the journey
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I have used white spirit over many years, and on several different cars, to remove tar and have never had a problem. I believe that Halfords tar remover (which I have also used) is essentially white spirit. Pure white spirit would evaporate and leave no residues, but it will remove all traces of wax and polish off the paint leaving it appearing slightly dull. Whatever product is used to remove tar, it will do the same - if it will dissolve tar it will certainly dissolve wax.
Regarding T-cut, the clue is in the name "cut" and this is how wiki defines a cutting compound; "Cutting compound consists of an abrasive suspended in a paste. Like most abrasives, it comes in various grit sizes dependent upon how much matter is to be removed. It is used on automotive paintwork to cut through (abrade) oxidised paint or to polish out scratches in the paintwork. The oxidised paint is duller than fresh paint and the cutting compound is used to expose this fresher surface".
The problem is that some paints re-oxidise again very quickly after the top surface is removed, so the benefits may be very short lived. Probably the main use for T-cut is by dodgy garages for tarting up rough cars just before being sold.
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Wrong I'm afraid m8, t-cut ain't harsh, it's marketed as a colour restorer, it even states on the bottle to use for tar removal, I've used it on paintwork for many years with only excellent results.
The way it restores colour is by abrading off the top layer (usually oxidised through aging). How else do you think it works m8 ? I've used it too, but not since I saw what it did the first time.
Salt on roads
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Road salt (sodium chloride) greatly accelerates corrosion simply because it is a source of the chloride ion. If you looked at any text book on corrosion it would tell you that chloride is just about the worst contaminant in the everyday world for initiating/maintaining rust. I used to work in corrosion testing and I've seen corrosion test specimens where you could see finger prints (caused by the salt in sweat) on their surfaces even after they been in hot gases for thousands of hours. Remember also that kitchen washing up liquid is loaded with salt and should be kept well away from cars.