bazz54
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Posts posted by bazz54
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In modern gearboxes, the oil is more than a lubricant...it's transmission fluid. It doesn't just lubricate but it also plays a critical role in the way the synchromesh operates. A really good website to checkout is RedLine's, which goes in to this in detail. Many American owners of Celicas seemed to use Redline products. Over recent years, in changing the gearbox fluid in both my Celica and my Honda, I've found both really choosey about what works well in terms of the gear shift, especially in winter. Just having the right viscosity rating doesn't ensure the shift will be good. In my Honda, Honda's own 'MTF3' fluid is very much better than anything else I've tried. In my G7, I've been using a product called MTF94 for about the last 5 years. This was originally forumated by Texaco, it has a spec very similar to Redline's MT90 and is specified for use in various Range Rovers, and I'm really happy with it. .
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On 27/05/2017 at 10:31, G.Lewarne said:
I prefer not to use underseal products, I never found they work very well, and just "slapped on" can lead to nasty hidden rot that you, or the MOT man, might not see.
I prefer the treat, primer and paint methodology myself rather than underseal
Absolutely agree; underseal is black goo, good for hiding stuff - even from yourself!
Need to do best job you can to get all old rust off, then use a zinc phosphate primer and then a top coat. It's also a good idea to get both primer and top coats from the same company; different makes don't always go well together.
I use a phosphoric acid treatment (usually Jenolite) on anything that has got more than surface rust.
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2 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
And from a practical standpoint the 86 looks a bit lacking in rear cargo space.
But the GT86 is far nicer looking car than the Gen 7, and it's RWD too, which i find awfully tempting....
Not just the actual space but it only has the boot opening rather than a hatch. As for RWD, for most of the driving your're going to do on clogged British roads, you're not going to enjoy that very often. The grass is always greener....
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I recall seeing a figure of just 18,000 for US sales of the GT86 during its peak year (2013); guess that fits the trend.
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I've just been checking out the GT86's sales record. Launched in 2012, worldwide sales peaked in 2013 and then went sharply downwards. If you search Google, there are quite a few articles speculating over its future.
When it first came out I was surprised that they had stayed with the same idea of the high-revving engine with little low-end torque as per G7. Recall Tiff Nedell driving one around the TT course on IoM for "5th Gear". Both G7 and GT86 needed better (bigger?) engines.
I'd guess that if the GT86 went out of production, used car prices would tumble quickly, as per usual and GT86 ownership might soon be more easily attainable...if you want one!
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I take your point about being a nod back the past; the popularity of the MX5 and of vintage sports cars is evidence of that appeal and I do not 'dislike' the 86. But as a practical everyday car which still retains some driving pleasure, the G7's handling is well above average and, if the 86's is better, that alone doesn't tip the balance for me.
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Well;
- I think the 7 looks better
- the 7's hatch is just soooo wonderful
- does the 86 feel *significantly* more powerful?
- at these 'modest' power levels, is RWD something you want/need? If so, why?
- depreciation on a 7 is negligible now.
No contest; I'm keeping my 7!
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I recall Ed China using it on one of the cars on Wheeler Dealers. Certainly, the before and after figures on his exhaust gas analyser showed a marked improvement immediately after he done it, but what does that mean? There are certainly some products on the market that are used a day or two before an MoT to pep up an old engine/catalyst to get a pass. Quite how those work, I'm not sure. As for Terraclean, I'll give that a pass.
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My Gen7;
had it over 12 years and absolutely love it; never had significant problems
My Rover 600 (an Accord with a Rover badge on it)
had it over 12 years and absolutely love it; never had significant problems.
And I could say the same about the Mazda 323 and the Honda Accord I owned before them.
That's because I don't buy pups like you do!
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Genuine +1.
The Blueprint ones for the Celica are physically much smaller than Toyota's
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Ok, so it's interesting to look at this http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/PG-BH13-001.pdf
which may have been posted on the forum previously. Of course, the obvious limitation of this test study is that they applied the "underbody treatment" directly to bare steel and leave you to assume that the results would still be valid if they'd put it on painted steel. But then, perhaps they would have found that when put down on top of a good paint system, the underbody treatment adds little additional protection? The test do prove, very convincingly, that without paint, the underbody treatments all allow rusting under the test condition being used.
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I guess time will tell if the money invested was worth it or not
It would be really interesting to know the name of the product they are using. Don't get me wrong about putting additional "rust protection" on your car, I'm all for that, but I'm definitely not a fan of the black, soft, goo that people have traditionally referred to as "underseal".
I did my rear sub-frame and petrol tank (using zinc phosphate primer and then a professional metal cladding top coat) back in April, and judging by the thread which has started about front sub-frames, looks as though I need to get the brushes out again
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I'm not to sure tbh but iv seen a few cars they've recently under sealed and it's hard like paint
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well that is interesting, because as I've said on here before, I stopped using "underseal" years ago. During the 60's and 70's when cars were real rot boxes, loads of firms started up to do underseal and that was usually black sticky stuff that didn't seem much different from tar. When new it was really soft but it progressively dried out and after a length of time it was often possible to pull it off in great patches and pretty often there was rust occurring underneath. So the questions seemed to be; (i) just how effective is this stuff at preventing corrosion (ii) how good is at at forming an adhesive bond with the paint layer and (iii) can it actually make things worse, if only by hiding rust?
Waxoil came along later and seemed to be better (?), but at the same time, paint technology improved enormously, so body rot on cars now takes far longer to get started than before. So if the stuff these guys are using looks like hard paint, then maybe it is hard paint, but one that's formulated to be a thick tough barrier and resistant to impact, which I'd guess are the key properties of an "underseal". But I think I'm right in saying that you can still go down the high street or go on-line and buy tins of black tarry stuff (just like 40 years ago), labelled "underseal" and is just fine..... for a car you're going to sell next week.
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Alternatively, you can buy a small camera (endoscope) that will connect via USB to a laptop for less than £10 on eBay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-2M-Mini-Waterproof-LED-USB-Endoscope-Borescope-Snake-Inspection-Tube-Camera-/321685129874?hash=item4ae5ed8a92:g:Al4AAOSwstxU9YNd. I have one of those and it was vital when I changed the master cylinder on my saloon, where the nuts that hold it are somewhere well above the pedals on the bulkhead. Think that mine is on something like 10 feet of cable.
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When you ask for someone doing "underside treatment", are you including the pre-cleaning and application of either a paint or an anti-rust treatment prior to the underseal?
This place (near Aylesbury) has an interesting website http://www.thepaintshoppros.co.uk/car-underbody-rust-protection-service/
but I have no experience of using them. They apply what looks like a phosphate conversion treatment before the underseal. One point to note is that they reckon that their whole process needs re-doing every few years.
Personally, I definitely want some good rust-inhibiting primer paint going down before underseal and think that any other approach is a mistake. Underseal hides what's going on beneath it and I don't generally use it these days.
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I seem to remember Ed China bunging that stuffing in a TR6(?) and wondering about that. Definitely not going in my cars.
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I haven't used any form of underseal since the 1970's
! But... I know there will be a stack of people say that Hammerite (originally Finnegan's) Waxoyl is the Dog's danglies.I have spent quite a lot of time Googling this problem of dealing with rust as I've currently got a 14 year old Gen 7 and a 18 year old Rover 600. But also, I work in a chemistry lab so I'm in the position where my job and my hobby coincide. It's interesting to look at some of the forums run by the guys interested in old military vehicles. But no matter what forums you look at, my impression is that there isn't much consensus on what the best products are - only that time spent removing as much of the existing rust as possible before you apply anything is really important.
Currently, I'm using Johnstones zinc phosphate primer followed by Johnstones metal cladding top coat.
Johnstones is a really old British company which is now part of the huge PPG multinational. My route to choosing those is I found out that Scewfix's Red Oxide is made by Johnstones (almost certainly their zinc phopshate re-packaged for Screwfix). Previously, I've had really good experience with Hammerite's Rust Beater (another a zinc phosphate) as well as the Screwfix stuff. If you want to get some technical info about what a particular paint is, look online for its Materials Safety Data Sheet (MSDS), and somewhere on there it will tell you what the basic chemistry is (epoxy, alkyl, zinc, phosphoric acid, zinc phosphate etc). Obviously, I've become a fan of zinc phosphate products, based on some years of their use.
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I've always been uncertain about the wax / oil based underseal type products. I've seen too may instances where they appear to do little more than hide really bad active rusting underneath them. I think the key requirement is to get as much loose rust off as possible and then apply a good corrosion inhibiting primer paint (2 coats). Under this heading I'd include the phosphate-converter paints, and also, the zinc phosphate primers. There are two other recent threads on the forum which have discussed these. The primer then needs a layer(s) of a top coat on it. An underseal type product could then go on top of that, but I prefer to be able to see what's happening, so don't use any.
The old lead oxide paints were apparently good but are now banned; the term "Red oxide" paint is still frequently seen but means only that the paint has the same colour as the old lead paint. That said, I reckon that Screwfix's Red Oxide primer is actually a good quality zinc phosphate being sold at a good price.
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To be honest the best way to really kill rust is to remove it totally ie if it's surface rust then grind or sand it away, if it's actually penetrated right into the metal then you will have to cut it out and then weld a new piece on place, from then you obviously put your primer on then your top coat then your lacquer.
Those comments are absolutely true, and if you can get something in to a workshop and have easy access to all the surfaces, fine. But that strategy is harder to live up to if you're dealing with the underside of a 15 year old car, and even more so if it's just sitting on axle stands. Under those circumstances you're probably going end up with 4 kinds of surface;
i) areas in original condition and still good
ii) areas which rusted and you were able to do a really good job or brushing or grinding back
iii) areas which rusted, but were hard to get at and you did "the best you could"; there may be some traces of rust left.
iv) areas so badly rusted, welding is required
So you have to decide are you going to re-paint each of those areas in different ways, or adopt a compromise solution to cover everything.
I think the outcome here is that there is no one perfect answer and ultimately, people will tend to go with the approach they believe has previously worked well for themselves or their friends. That said, I suspect that there are some totally over-rated products out there, and some of them have managed to stay around for a long time and some have big price tickets!
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I tend to be a bit skeptical about some of the newer 'wonderpaints' for the same reason, so I tend to go the more traditional route of red oxide paint onto the metal.
Yeah, but the problem is that the term "red oxide" now refers only to the colour of the paint and gives you no info whatsoever about what kind of paint it is.
Originally, red oxide referred to paint containing red lead oxide, which was a good corrosion inhibitor, but is now banned. Buying red oxide paint now is just a lottery, unless you get some tech info from the supplier.
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Subsequent to my OP, I did a bit of digging for info and found that the two paints I quite like these days (Hammerite's Beat Rust and Screwfix's Red Oxide) turn out to both be zinc phosphate paints. The Screwfix stuff is actually made by Johnstones, who are a top British company and part of the worldwide PPG group, and as well as making domestic paints, they do paints for little things like oil rigs, bridges etc. I was lucky to spot a 5L tin of Johnstones industrial "fast drying zinc phosphate" going very cheap on eBay and have just used that for the first time today, and not surprisingly, it appeared in all respects to be exactly like the Screwfix red oxide. The things I like about this stuff are (i) it is a very good "wetting" paint that seems to adsorb on to surfaces really well, doesn't need much brushing in and (ii) even without a top coat, seems quite good are arresting/preventing rust. The ebay seller also had 5L of Johnstones industrial semi-gloss, high-build top coat, so that's going on next.
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I'm coming up on 11 years now and very pleased that I bought it, even though I didn't originally know about the G7 pre-facelift engine issue it, but so far, that problem hasn't shown on my car.
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This issue with subframes seems vaguely reminiscent of the problem with the original mini years ago. I never owned one, but always had the impression that the rest of the car could be great but the subframes completely gone.
I've just bought 5L of Johnstone's zinc phosphate primer and 5 L of their semi-gloss over-coat (well below list price on ebay) and need to make a start on both cars ASAP.
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One of the other known issues with chloride is that once it is on, it is bloody difficult to wash it off completely (even though you won't be able to see it). Consequently there are products on the market specifically claiming to help remove it, like this stuff from the Rustbuster paint folks http://www.rust.co.uk/4-salt-removal/t16/
I'm not recommending this particular product, simple because I've never tried it. But, I will be doing some painting on the underside of my Gen7 this spring and even after using lots of water to clean it, I probably will use this or something similar before slapping the paint on.
Trouble with relays
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Yes, if that is what the diagram means, the LED will not allow sufficient current for the coil to pull in.
As suggested, the LED needs to be wired in series with a resistor (~1000 ohms is about right) and the LED/resistor combo wired in parallel with the coil. A single LED will only take about 10mA current, whereas the relay will need ~300mA (?) for the initial pull in. Also, when the relay drops back out, it will produce a voltage spike and the LED may not like that. Additional components could be used to protect it... but do you really need it ? Can you get a relay with a LED built in?.