bazz54
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Posts posted by bazz54
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Mmmm, well call me a tight-fisted Yorkshire sod, but the Humbrol Enamel at ~£1.50 per 14ml tin seems like a better deal
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Two tins will do all 4 calipers. I use Baltic Blue (a metallic Royal Blue, no political inference shall be implied!!!).
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12 minutes ago, G.Lewarne said:
in my tired and bleary eyed state I read that as "Minecraft drill" and "shitting wheel"
Well....while you are in the line, I've just spotted the comment where you refer to your 7 as "he"! Oh no, that cannot be right
. James T. never referred the Enterprise as anything other than she. I regard mine as neutral, or female.
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Replaced the rear offside brake caliper. The mounting bolts came undone with no great effort but then....the pins were seriously rusted in and all attempts to budge them failed (had soaked them in WD40 yesterday). So, out with my Minicraft drill with a slitting wheel on it and cut my way through each pin in about 5 minutes, and then transferred the pads over to the nice nearly-new caliper from eBay. Minidrills are nearly worth their weight in gold; couldn't manage without one (got two actually
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Yep, think it's some crappy useless plating, so ideally, a primer for non-ferrous metals may be the best way to go, but probably not too critical.
I'm sorting out some slight brake-binding (on 3 wheels
) before my MoT. The fronts just needed cleaning and lubing to sort them out, but I'm going to install a near-new rear caliper that still has its silver plating on it. Back in 2011, I top-coated all the calipers in Humbrol Enamel paint and that is really hard and durable and has lasted really well, so they are now getting a re-coat.
Newly painted calipers, newly powder-coated wheels...what a lovely old banger
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I’m talking here about run-of-the-mill cast iron replacement calipers. These always seem to be supplied with some sort of silvery finish, and it doesn’t take very long for it to just disappear leaving the caliper to start rusting.
The question is just what is that silver finish; is it a paint or is it some sort or plating? I think it’s the latter and if that is so, what kind of paint would you put on top of it?
I’ve just painted a silvery one using Hammerite Special Metals primer, which is meant for non-ferrous metals, as that it what I guess the plating is.
Any thoughts?
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6 hours ago, G.Lewarne said:
Any company "following the rules" need your v5 and license and enter those details on the dvla database when issuing number plates
Never been down that route, but it's some years since I last had new plates. Are we talking about the numbers of those docs or the actual docs?
Would be unhappy about sending the docs in the post. Getting hold of a photo ID licence is really damn hard as it is. Think the last plates I had were made up in Edinburgh by some firm off ebay, but no docs involved.
For some reason, I do think the condition of the plates really does reflect on the vehicle overall; could not live with iffy ones.
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I'm confused; DVLA need notifying ??? If the plates comply with the regs, and the maker's name and postcode are present, doesn't that close everything out?
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I have spent a good deal of time and money trying to reduce road noise in my G7. I cannot recall for sure how much sound deadening material has gone in, but I think it's about 30kg. Most of that was in the form of a professionally supplied kit pre-cut for the G7, which I think cost close on £200. I was never sure that any of that achieved very much.
I then looked around at low-noise tyres and put on a set of Dunlop Bluresponse. They did significantly reduce road noise, but not to a level I am happy with.
All that said, I also own an old Rover 600 saloon. I am sure now that that car seems to make more noise than it use to, or put another way, the present condition of the roads leads to that perception.
What really strikes me is that, in either car, if I travel over a stretch of motorway that has recently been re-surfaced, the road noise becomes negligible until the moment you get back on to typical motorway and then it's back big time.
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IF you Google "celica pronunciation" you get 407,000 hits. I go with sell-ee-ka myself, or maybe sell-eee-ka. Definitely, the US sell-ika is wrong, as evidenced by their pronunciation of MX5 as Miata
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Take a look at Google and explore either citric acid or electrolysis for rust removal.
Citric acid is a white powder you can buy cheaply from places like Wilko or eBay; it's safe to handle - it is the main constituent of Lemon juice. Dissolve some in water, maybe warm it a little and it's good at removing rust without dissolving any metal; takes a little time.
There's loads of stuff on Google about removing rust using electrolysis - you can power it from a battery charger.
Beware of using any domestic cleaning product on cars; they often contain salt (sodium chloride) and that is the best substance in the world for initiating corrosion. Also, once it's on metal, it's damn hard to remove it completely. It is strongly adsorbed (as distinct from absorbed) and it is just total bad news.
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Speaking as someone who has owned a Gen7 for nearly 14 years now, I think it would suit you very well. They have to be be amongst the most reliable cars on the road - really important for your job. When maintenance is needed, there's no problem at all in finding new or recycled parts. When that hatch is opened up, it is like Dr Who's Tardis in terms of what will fit in there. Petrol consumption - pretty good as long as you drive appropriately. Value for money - incredible, but you need to find one that's been looked after.
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There are special battery clamps like this http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/563/disconnect-battery-terminal which means you can disconnect and reconnect in seconds.
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005 was pre-face and 053 was post face lift.
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The M2C913D looks like it's a spec issued by Ford specifically for their diesels.
Owning a pre-face G7, I'm always interested in oils, but it always seems like "ask 10 people - get 10 different replies".
A friend of mine has a PhD in chemistry and works in the oil business (and owns a G7) and when asked what oils he buys, always answers, "Whichever big name brand is on special offer". I always stay with the same oil, but what do I know?
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I've had a Hozelok reel for a very long time and it's only now got one pinhole in it.
Although it doesn't seem to be a very popular method, for years, I've been using one of those brushes that you place a small stick of soap inside and attach the the end of the hose as my "first line of attack". Only problem is that you need get the flow rate just right or the soap just gets blasted away too quick. I've got a pressure washer but never liked it on the cars.
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36 minutes ago, G.Lewarne said:
weird, wonder why blueprint list two then lol
I suspect that these kind of databases include lots of mistakes. The "cold area" designation will include Canada and Alaska where cold really means cold. I wonder what the typical starter motor power rating is of UK cars of ~1800cc?
The 063 battery seemed to struggle more on my G7 than on my 2000cc Rover, and AMS reckoned the 063 died quickly on the G7, but then the 053 is closer in rating to the 063 than to the 005!
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There could be a bit of luck involved whenever you buy any battery. In a perfect world, the battery would come straight off the production line and get delivered to your door. In reality, there could be a huge period of time between those two events and lead acid batteries are never improved by standing idle for long periods of time. I wonder if that could be one reason why the original battery fitted to a car usually lasts much longer than the aftermarket ones?
I do usually buy a "big name" brand, but I've also had cheapy "no-names" that have done a really good job. I wonder if there are many counterfeit car batteries around; labelled Yuasa, or whatever, but made in a back street in Taiwan?
@G.L. Looking at Denso starters for the G7 in the UK, there was just one 1kw model, but for the US, there were two, the larger one for cold weather areas.
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7 hours ago, Peter_7 said:
Think I used petrol or some solvent I got from work then flushed it out with carb cleaner but it still looks crap so don't get too upset about it because its stained for life.
Sounds like it has diffused in to the plastic, in which case it is probably there for good. If the reservoir is megabucks to replace, trying to clean one purely for under-bonnet aesthetics sounds like the 'risk / reward' ratio is off-putting.
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Changing the steering fluid is somewhere on my "to do" list, but I wasn't aware that there's a gunge issue. From what you say, sounds like it's not water soluble, so guess something like white spirit might be the next thing to try?
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I didn't do a patch using Flag by itself; maybe I could add that. I think the Jenolite has to have some paint applied on top of it, in fact, Jenolite now do a paint. Also, on my Rover, I've done some bits with Flag and some bits with Jenolite (both with primer and top coat); I just hope I've kept good notes on what areas got what treatment
. Over 20 years ago, I treated some absolutely rust-rotten hand-wheels from the valves on my central heating oil storage tank by immersing them in simple phosphoric acid (which we had at work) and then painted them, and the rust has never come back.
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Brown stuff... had me worrried there for a minute! Incidently, when I painted my sills recently, I also set up a little corrosion experiment - it's a strip of what was really rusty steel, cleaned up with a wire brush, and then I painted some patches on it, some straight on the metal, some on top of Flag's anti-rust (which you recommended), some on top of Jenolite. The paint is zinc phosphate primer. This is not exactly scientific, and I don't know how long it will take to show any effects, but I'll post any results when they show. As well as my 15 year old Celica, I've also got a 19 year old Rover 600 to keep fettled
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Exellent! As above, a looked after 7 seems to be pretty bullet proof in terms of MoT's. I guess the main issue as they age will be keeping rust at bay?
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There's quite a few things to think about here. I had been using the same small garage for my MoT for ~20 years and never had any grief -but then they closed. I decided to try a local garage and I've never seen such a long list of advisories as they came up with (this was not on my 7 but on another car). Fortunately, someone put me on to another garage and the same car has subsequently passed another 2 MoT's with no advisories.
Of course with that car, and now with the 7, we're talking about cars which are pretty old, so it's more likely they will have problems than a say a 4 year old car. You just cannot be 100% sure that you've sorted everything prior to the test.
Bit I also share the same feeling that I really hate anyone else touching the my cars. So, it's not so much that I feel nervous, but more like the bad feeling that somebody is intruding where they are definately not welcome.
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2 hours ago, G.Lewarne said:
I am curious why you have the LED in series with the coil though, you will get a little voltage drop because of that and it may not make the contactors move fully into position.
If you want and indicator LED, instead put it across 30 and ground with its own current limiting resistor
Yes, if that is what the diagram means, the LED will not allow sufficient current for the coil to pull in.
As suggested, the LED needs to be wired in series with a resistor (~1000 ohms is about right) and the LED/resistor combo wired in parallel with the coil. A single LED will only take about 10mA current, whereas the relay will need ~300mA (?) for the initial pull in. Also, when the relay drops back out, it will produce a voltage spike and the LED may not like that. Additional components could be used to protect it... but do you really need it ? Can you get a relay with a LED built in?.
what have you done to your celica today...
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Well, at least you didn't call it 'Jean Luc' !!!