bazz54
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Posts posted by bazz54
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24 minutes ago, Cleario said:
I have one I used to use when I worked for volvo, now I’m in hyundai it’s useless because the capsthe same as the Toyota. I use a vacuum bleeder instead now
Vacuum bleeding is popular and I've done it but I wonder about the extent to which you may suck bubbles of air in down past the threads on the bleed nipple. I always cover those threads with lots of PTFE tape, but that seals most effectively on tapered threads rather than parallel.
Another option (for one-person bleeding) is to buy one of those little non-return valves (~£1) they use in fish tanks and connect that on the nipple, then just pump on the pedal.
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But in the case of a Gen7, it's only a push-on cap. Not sure how much pressure that could safely hold. Maybe a tie-wrap around it would be the way to go?
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Is anyone a big fan of the Gunson’s Power (Brake) Bleed kit?
These things have been around for decades, and I’ve owned one for a very long time, but I don’t have a clear memory of ever having used it on any car. If it works OK for you, it should make bleeding the brakes very easy, but if it leaks, brake fluid could spray everywhere.
Today I tried fitting it on to the master cylinder on my Gen7; there is just space to fit it. But as the reservoir has a push-on rather than screw-on top, the Gunson needs to be held pressure-tight over the top with the nylon straps provided and this is where it is less good on the 7. The underside of the reservoir is shaped so that is tapered towards the front, so when the straps tighten they don’t pull evenly and directly down on the Gunson cap, but forward and slightly off centre. So, it might seal or it might leak
.The straps supplied seem awkward and oversized to me; I’m going so it I can find something similar but a bit more flexible before I consider using it. (My current bleeding task is OK’ish, after Bleed Round#2).
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3 hours ago, G.Lewarne said:
go on...
Well, I clamped the hose and disconnected it from the caliper and there was no leak. But I came back a couple of hours later and the driveway is awash with brake fluid, reservoir well empty.
So guess what comes now; yes, bled nsr, osr, osf then nsf and ....it is pretty spongy.
So have just been reading the previous threads on this and the issue of the ABS cycling comes up; bugger
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What to do next; MoT is looming?
Spotted on another forum; best bleed clutch too, as common reservoir.
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Not sure if this is the best place to post it; there's a guy on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/323238637525 selling Draper brake hose clamps for £4.60 a pair inc p&p. I got 2 and have just ordered 2 more. I had a bad "event" with an improvised hose clamp last week, so decided not to do that again
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Well, at least you didn't call it 'Jean Luc' !!!
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Mmmm, well call me a tight-fisted Yorkshire sod, but the Humbrol Enamel at ~£1.50 per 14ml tin seems like a better deal
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Two tins will do all 4 calipers. I use Baltic Blue (a metallic Royal Blue, no political inference shall be implied!!!).
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12 minutes ago, G.Lewarne said:
in my tired and bleary eyed state I read that as "Minecraft drill" and "shitting wheel"
Well....while you are in the line, I've just spotted the comment where you refer to your 7 as "he"! Oh no, that cannot be right
. James T. never referred the Enterprise as anything other than she. I regard mine as neutral, or female.
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Replaced the rear offside brake caliper. The mounting bolts came undone with no great effort but then....the pins were seriously rusted in and all attempts to budge them failed (had soaked them in WD40 yesterday). So, out with my Minicraft drill with a slitting wheel on it and cut my way through each pin in about 5 minutes, and then transferred the pads over to the nice nearly-new caliper from eBay. Minidrills are nearly worth their weight in gold; couldn't manage without one (got two actually
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Yep, think it's some crappy useless plating, so ideally, a primer for non-ferrous metals may be the best way to go, but probably not too critical.
I'm sorting out some slight brake-binding (on 3 wheels
) before my MoT. The fronts just needed cleaning and lubing to sort them out, but I'm going to install a near-new rear caliper that still has its silver plating on it. Back in 2011, I top-coated all the calipers in Humbrol Enamel paint and that is really hard and durable and has lasted really well, so they are now getting a re-coat.
Newly painted calipers, newly powder-coated wheels...what a lovely old banger
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I’m talking here about run-of-the-mill cast iron replacement calipers. These always seem to be supplied with some sort of silvery finish, and it doesn’t take very long for it to just disappear leaving the caliper to start rusting.
The question is just what is that silver finish; is it a paint or is it some sort or plating? I think it’s the latter and if that is so, what kind of paint would you put on top of it?
I’ve just painted a silvery one using Hammerite Special Metals primer, which is meant for non-ferrous metals, as that it what I guess the plating is.
Any thoughts?
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6 hours ago, G.Lewarne said:
Any company "following the rules" need your v5 and license and enter those details on the dvla database when issuing number plates
Never been down that route, but it's some years since I last had new plates. Are we talking about the numbers of those docs or the actual docs?
Would be unhappy about sending the docs in the post. Getting hold of a photo ID licence is really damn hard as it is. Think the last plates I had were made up in Edinburgh by some firm off ebay, but no docs involved.
For some reason, I do think the condition of the plates really does reflect on the vehicle overall; could not live with iffy ones.
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I'm confused; DVLA need notifying ??? If the plates comply with the regs, and the maker's name and postcode are present, doesn't that close everything out?
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I have spent a good deal of time and money trying to reduce road noise in my G7. I cannot recall for sure how much sound deadening material has gone in, but I think it's about 30kg. Most of that was in the form of a professionally supplied kit pre-cut for the G7, which I think cost close on £200. I was never sure that any of that achieved very much.
I then looked around at low-noise tyres and put on a set of Dunlop Bluresponse. They did significantly reduce road noise, but not to a level I am happy with.
All that said, I also own an old Rover 600 saloon. I am sure now that that car seems to make more noise than it use to, or put another way, the present condition of the roads leads to that perception.
What really strikes me is that, in either car, if I travel over a stretch of motorway that has recently been re-surfaced, the road noise becomes negligible until the moment you get back on to typical motorway and then it's back big time.
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IF you Google "celica pronunciation" you get 407,000 hits. I go with sell-ee-ka myself, or maybe sell-eee-ka. Definitely, the US sell-ika is wrong, as evidenced by their pronunciation of MX5 as Miata
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Take a look at Google and explore either citric acid or electrolysis for rust removal.
Citric acid is a white powder you can buy cheaply from places like Wilko or eBay; it's safe to handle - it is the main constituent of Lemon juice. Dissolve some in water, maybe warm it a little and it's good at removing rust without dissolving any metal; takes a little time.
There's loads of stuff on Google about removing rust using electrolysis - you can power it from a battery charger.
Beware of using any domestic cleaning product on cars; they often contain salt (sodium chloride) and that is the best substance in the world for initiating corrosion. Also, once it's on metal, it's damn hard to remove it completely. It is strongly adsorbed (as distinct from absorbed) and it is just total bad news.
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Speaking as someone who has owned a Gen7 for nearly 14 years now, I think it would suit you very well. They have to be be amongst the most reliable cars on the road - really important for your job. When maintenance is needed, there's no problem at all in finding new or recycled parts. When that hatch is opened up, it is like Dr Who's Tardis in terms of what will fit in there. Petrol consumption - pretty good as long as you drive appropriately. Value for money - incredible, but you need to find one that's been looked after.
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There are special battery clamps like this http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/product.php/563/disconnect-battery-terminal which means you can disconnect and reconnect in seconds.
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005 was pre-face and 053 was post face lift.
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The M2C913D looks like it's a spec issued by Ford specifically for their diesels.
Owning a pre-face G7, I'm always interested in oils, but it always seems like "ask 10 people - get 10 different replies".
A friend of mine has a PhD in chemistry and works in the oil business (and owns a G7) and when asked what oils he buys, always answers, "Whichever big name brand is on special offer". I always stay with the same oil, but what do I know?
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I've had a Hozelok reel for a very long time and it's only now got one pinhole in it.
Although it doesn't seem to be a very popular method, for years, I've been using one of those brushes that you place a small stick of soap inside and attach the the end of the hose as my "first line of attack". Only problem is that you need get the flow rate just right or the soap just gets blasted away too quick. I've got a pressure washer but never liked it on the cars.
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36 minutes ago, G.Lewarne said:
weird, wonder why blueprint list two then lol
I suspect that these kind of databases include lots of mistakes. The "cold area" designation will include Canada and Alaska where cold really means cold. I wonder what the typical starter motor power rating is of UK cars of ~1800cc?
The 063 battery seemed to struggle more on my G7 than on my 2000cc Rover, and AMS reckoned the 063 died quickly on the G7, but then the 053 is closer in rating to the 063 than to the 005!
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There could be a bit of luck involved whenever you buy any battery. In a perfect world, the battery would come straight off the production line and get delivered to your door. In reality, there could be a huge period of time between those two events and lead acid batteries are never improved by standing idle for long periods of time. I wonder if that could be one reason why the original battery fitted to a car usually lasts much longer than the aftermarket ones?
I do usually buy a "big name" brand, but I've also had cheapy "no-names" that have done a really good job. I wonder if there are many counterfeit car batteries around; labelled Yuasa, or whatever, but made in a back street in Taiwan?
@G.L. Looking at Denso starters for the G7 in the UK, there was just one 1kw model, but for the US, there were two, the larger one for cold weather areas.
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7 hours ago, Peter_7 said:
Think I used petrol or some solvent I got from work then flushed it out with carb cleaner but it still looks crap so don't get too upset about it because its stained for life.
Sounds like it has diffused in to the plastic, in which case it is probably there for good. If the reservoir is megabucks to replace, trying to clean one purely for under-bonnet aesthetics sounds like the 'risk / reward' ratio is off-putting.
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Used a Gunson Power (Brake) Bleeder?
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Yes, that would work for vacuum bleeding; good idea.
Did a second all-round bleed on mine last night then took it to a car park and and tested out the ABS, which worked very well (on a very good and dry surface), and it was stopping very nicely with no juddering or pulling. Is it still a bit spongy...hard to say (it is a 14 year old Gen7), but aiming to get the MoT done this coming week.