bazz54
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Posts posted by bazz54
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It has been known for the clutch friction plate to stick to the flywheel when it hasn't been operated for a long time and be quite difficult to get it to un-stick. I used to put a block of wood in front of the driver's seat which was long enough to keep the clutch pedal depressed.
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I think the last time I changed a bulb on my G7 it took 45 minutes; it's a bit like a childrens' game;not much skill - just luck, getting it to go where it needs to be when you cannot see it. Same job on my saloon takes more like 45 seconds.
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53 minutes ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
At the price i'm not too concerned about pretentious technical specification claims...
as long as the 4,350 kelvins can vaporise jaywalking vampires i'll be happy
Alternatively, maybe 4,350 Kevins could be used for that job
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5 hours ago, Crazy Cat Lady said:
Just ordered a pair of 9005 for the high beams:
£7.60 with free postage is worth a punt!
Interesting product description;
Characteristics:Socket: 9005 / HB3Voltage: 12VPower: 65 Watt /seen as 130W/I wonder how the claim "65W seen as 130W" stacks up with the physicists?
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If you go to Citywheel, make sure you have CASH! Plastic is not accepted
. I know someone who's been going there for years and is always happy. I had a set (standard Gen7, but badly corroded) alloys done there in May of last year and they are fine.
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For an astonishing £20 a wheel, I quite like this outfit in Brum https://www.citywheelrefurbishment.co.uk/
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I'd plan to do the job in a number steps; concentrate on a limited area(s). There's quite a few days work in doing the whole floor. I did the back end one year and the front the following year. The primer I recommended needs 16 hours to dry, some others may be faster, but it is probably best to work on two limited areas at once so you don't get held up. Have you looked at the various previous threads which point out the particular areas on the rear subframe which are the problem parts?
I'm pleased to say that 2019 is going to be a largely paint-free year here
, having been busy over the last 2 or 3 years.
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Yes. the jacking points are best, but if they are rusted, you'll need to move the stands slightly to the side.
What Bumblebee says is all good. The bits of wire come off the brush at hellish speed, and a few of them will go through ordinary clothing. As automotive men, and women, we are called upon to do these things, like salmon swim upstream to spawn!
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Celica with sill covers removed
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This is type of brush I normally use https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-80mm-x-M14-Crimped-Steel-Wire-Cup-Brush-For-Angle-Grinder-41444/301927977938?epid=26012039447&hash=item464c4f53d2:g:uC0AAOSwj~VcwTVj
It's worth buying a decent quality one; cheap ones can be badly balance and just don't last.
The sill cover is the strip of plastic that is at the bottom of the body and runs below the door from the from the front to the rear wheel arch. IIRC, it's held on by 6 platic clips on the underside, remove these and then I think it slides off to the rear. Beneath it is the important welded seam between the floor pan and the upper body shell. As a minimum, you will probably see some rust around the jacking points, but some owners find much more.
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Has anyone taken the sill covers off yet? There well be rust starting under there too.
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£2.6k is mega money; is the car worth that much?
What did the MoT tester say about the condition at the last test? The thing about rust is that it's hard to tell how bad it is just by looking at it. Sometimes it doesn't look bad when it actually is, and vice versa. On the Gen7, we know now that the rear subframe tends to be the first thing to get you an MoT fail. Until you start to brush and poke it, you don't know what you've got.
I have a low mileage 7 which is now 17 years old and I've spent a lot of time doing the following;
- clean as best possible with a wire brush on an angle grinder
- paint using zinc phosphate primer* (at least 2 coats)
- apply topcoat*
I never use underseal; I think it just hides what's going on, and I'm really pleased with the outcome of what I've done on the 7 and the same was done on my 21 year old family saloon also.
Regarding*, for quite some years now I only ever use the zinc phosphate primer made by Johnstones and the top coat on that is Johnstones metal cladding paint. I first discovered Johnstones when I bought some "Red Oxide Primer" from Screwfix and found it was brilliant stuff (the term "Red Oxide" now only refers to the colour of the paint, though in the past, it referred to lead-based paints, which are now illegal). Looking in to it, I found that it was actually made by Johnstones, and I then found a (one-off) seller on ebay offering 5L cans of both the primer and the top coat at a knock down price. Those are pretty much used up now, but money well spent.
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But of course, just because it looks like it is a genuine Toyota part means very little. As a friend who works in the electronics industry frequently tells me, there is no component, however inexpensive, which isn't ripe for forged copies.
I always buy my filters at the local Mr T.
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Agreed, a good road car should not make any great amount of noise, except in Chav-land.
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Thanks for suggestions guys. I've never been a fan of K&N, but it's surprising they are the only people to add the nut, though I suppose you do pay for that. Changing the filter a couple of days ago, I started off with a clamp thing made in the US by Craftsman tools and that was just slipping, so then I went to an old Draper "bicycle chain" thing, which worked, but is damn fiddly. Time I got something which is works first time and every time!
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I've got three different filter removal tools and all are a PIA. I recall someone on the forum recommending one tool as the dog's goolies, but cannot find the thread. Any suggestions please?
B
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One problem with the way the machines test for leaks is to put the system under vacuum, isolate it and see if it looses the vacuum. But when it's actually in operation, the system is at quite high positive pressure. Therefore, some people including me think that the vac leak test is not convincing.
At the moment I am replacing the condenser on the family saloon. I'm now at the stage where I'm trying to convince myself that I've got the right rubber O rings for the re-build. I will definitely be testing it by pressurising it before I get it charged. That car is 21 years old and it's just getting to the point where finding spares is starting to get more difficult. What should I be buying for the Gen7? Already have the rear sub-frame
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It's always interesting to look at the AutoExpress review, which they repeat every two years; here's the one from last year https://www.autoexpress.co.uk/accessories-tyres/76760/best-car-headlight-bulbs-2018
The brightness of any bulb goes up very sharply with the voltage that's being fed to it, so it's always worthwhile making sure that your electrical system is in really good condition. On older cars like ours, poor connections / grounding sometimes means that significant voltage can be lost between the battery and the bulbs.
Polishing the headlight covers might also be worthwhile if they have become hazed.
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A 063 will fit pre-face as well (I used one) L.W.H
They are fitted to numerous different models so often quite cheap.
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Isn't it the height of the 005 (it's taller than most) which stops it being used in the facelift cars?
It's that height that means that it's hard to fit a brace to a pre-face car with a 005 battery. I'm sure I recall someone (AMS?) saying they had used a 075 in a preface, which is longer than a 005 but less tall, so you can fit a brace.
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For about £10 you can buy a lightmeter https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UYIGAO-Digital-Lux-Meter-UA1010B-500000-Lux-Illuminometer-V8V2/232968877880?epid=753431371&hash=item363e06f738:g:P7MAAOSw43JbxlLA (they do come cheaper than that one), and stop the guessing. My halogens (Osrams?) on the 7 bung out about 10,000 lumens measured at a distance of 300mm from the headlight.
The problem with a LED in terms of temperature, would be its internal temperature and anyone who knows anything about electronics will confirm, temperature up, lifetime down. A good quality one would have good heat-sinking, but a cheapie won't have that.
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From what I know about ceramic coatings, they are often used to stop metals oxidising at high temperatures, e.g. turbine blades, but I'm not sure that thin coatings of ceramics would be very tough or impact-resistant. Could this actually be a polymer coating which contains ceramic particles for re-enforcement?
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Could be that they put a small amount of ammonia or something similar in it; it will help with cleaning the screen. Halfords -20'C is scented with pines; that sounds reasonable.
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Forgot Tesco, the nearest one is some distance from me. -23 is not bad and it's a fair price. The one thing I hate about the Halfords -30' is that its scented with cherries...awful!
Sorning car over winter - preparations.
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Yes, that's what I used to do... but it didn't always work first time and it could get a bit scary. The pressure plate springs seemed to cope with being jammed under load, but the car only had a 1300cc engine with limited torque so the clutch was not required with deal with great loads.
My Celica stays off the road when there's any ice/snow/salt about, but I'll use it if those three things are absent.