paulgtt
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Posts posted by paulgtt
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Iv just had my Evo done by MG Autos in Ripley, excellent work as used them previously.
They are an Evo specialist but I'm sure they would accommodate most things
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Just ordered a set, £277 delivered
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I'm not fussed about fitting/balancing as I can get it done for nothing.
So looks like eBay it is then!
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Made my mind up on going for assymetric 2 or 3 but where's cheapest place for 225 45 17?
eBay seems cheapest at the moment at £280 a set, anyone know anywhere else?
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I always did 112 on the GT4, I think that was what the workshop manual stated.
There should be something online for the gen7 too
I always do the wheel nuts upto this torque and then check them after 30 miles or so
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That's your decision if you buy/fit them.
I still maintain that harnesses without a cage is dangerous and so is mounting harnesses without a proper bar ie on a cage.
Also a harness on a road car is a complete pita to live with
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Problem with mounting it in the rear seat base is that the belt is at the wrong angle for the front seat
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If the "reel" fits into where the rear belts were, which is what it looks like, then I would say a harness bar would be required.
Also if they act like a harness then a roll cage wouldn't go a miss either.
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Yeah definitely interesting!
It was fast but only on a dry, straight road from 50mph onwards.
It made a 2015 Carrera S look silly on the A46 lol
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Nissan Micra 1.0 Si
Toyota Starlet GT Turbo
Toyota MR2 GT Turbo T-bar
Toyota Celica GT Four ST205 (310bhp track car)
Toyota Celica GT Four ST205 (road car)
Since the Celicas I then had the following:
Mitsubishi Evo 6
Subaru Impreza STi Type RA V5
Mitsubishi Evo 4 (420bhp)
Toyota Glanza V (280bhp)
Current:
Subaru Impreza STi V3
Engine gone pop so currently off road, thinking about getting an Evo 5 to complete the set lol
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I used to use T1R's on the track faff, road track wet dry and they were good, I found them even better in the wet on track!
I then put them on the Evo and they were just overwhelmed by the power of the car lol.
When I get new tyres for the Scoob im going for the Goodyear Eagle F1's, these are brilliant in all conditions but not the cheapest.
Trackday tyres think going to try the Federal RSR, Greyracer has given good feedback on them so we'll try them on the Pug
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I honestly don't think we get enough real bad weather to warrrant winter tyres.
you should be able to drive safely enough on your normal all weather tyres , after all you should drive to the conditions of the road.......so if its wet and slidy then you should drive slower and smoother.
I live quite high up and can have snow covering for weeks at a time, I have never needed winter tyres,
Totally agree, I don't use my car in bad weather so use the wife's fiesta on t1r's and it's fine in snow, ice etc.
Winter tyres will just overheat after a short period in anything other than very cold conditions so for the few weeks of bad weather not worth getting them IMHO
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After many trials in doing 500+ miles on a full tank
you got the tanker on drip feed -
No I didn't say that.
The deeper the tread the more water is dispersed, so a tyre with 8mm will disperse more water than a tyre with 2mm.
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Amount of tread doesn't really have anything to do with grip, it's all for water dispersion.
Why do you think proper race cars run slicks? They grip like sh*t to a blanket and have no tread!
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Iv had advisories before for "noisy exhaust" but it's down to discretion of the tester if he thinks it's excessively loud.
I think it's more common sense then anything, why people try and make the car as loud as possible is beyond me! Granted mines not exactly quiet but I can't really get it any quieter without sacrificing power!
There's a lad on my street with a 1.6 focus and his exhaust is a lot louder than mine but then again the 80 bhp or whatever it's got needs to breathe
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Just don't buy the cheap stuff of eBay! It's cheap for a reason!
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Prices from when I broke mine:
Flare £10
Front seats - free
Hyper sports mats £30
Boot carpet - free (gt4 carpet has the wheel "hump" in it
Not sure on rest as mine never had them
HTH
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Engines do lose power over time but a well maintained one shouldn't lose too much.
Only way for sure is to take th engine out and put it on a crank dyno, a rolling road fly wheel figure doesn't really tell the whole story as all dynos vary massively.
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It's not far off stock iirc, plus if the other car has a race driver at the wheel that more than makes up for the few tweeks IMHO
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^^
That's a better comparison
If I had to chose between the two then I'd go for the celica purely because I don't like the looks of the 86, don't really like the looks of the gen 7 either but prefer it over the gt86 lol
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Just re grease the internal barrelevery now and again when it stops working.And hey presto another yrs pumping trouble free.
Il have to remember that
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God bless the front mount intercooler
Indeed but works even better in this weather with a water spray bar
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Sumps, brakes and track are the same.
Later jap had airbags.
JDM has climate control, elec folding mirrors, no rear fog and reads in km/h (limited to 112mph)
Uk has headlight washers and bonnet spoiler and oblong rear plate surround.
Uk has egr but power difference is down to ecu and fuel.
Jdms tend to be slightly more expensive to insure for some reason considering they are 99% identical to uk cars.
Underseal
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
MG Autos - 01773 745400
Ask to speak to Dave.
Mine was £400, everything off from underneath, cleaned off, dried, cavity wax and underseal.
I left it there for a week as it had a cambelt change etc aswell