hawker
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Posts posted by hawker
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It could be the belt and/or the tensioner.
Apply small amounts of copper grease to the thin edge of the running belt with a brush several times. If the noise goes away its the belt. If it does not, then your tensioner is on its way.
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In addition to the drum, dont forget to paint the edge/rim of the disc too, as this also rusts to buggery
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I've just purchased their service plan off them too for my missus' Yaris.
Its £15 a month and it covers all service costs over the next 3 years.
Seeing as you can pay £100-£150+ for a service at an independent, I thought this isnt too bad a deal.
I enquired as to the costs of the next 3 services for it, and it works out to be around £200 saving.
Added bonus is that you dont get stung with the big hit per service, and the cost is fixed, so immune to any inflation/price rises etc.
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Seems like a pretty good crack. Its free to join, and I cant see any hidden nasties:
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Hammerite copper (looks more gold)
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I usually check my oil level when the engine is cold (or at least has only been turned over for a minute or two)
I thought I'd Google it today to see what the consensus is on this, and the differences in opinions on this are huge, which I find quite alarming considering it is such a basic maintenance necessity on a car.
So, when do YOU check yours? cold, hot or somewhere in between?
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I think its pretty impressive what can be achieved with kits these days.
ok, its not my cup of tea, but if someone loves those bently's then its an option i suppose.
however, i'm amazed anyone bids on such kit cars without seeing them in the flesh. its impossible to tell the quality of the kit and fit etc. just by a few small pictures.
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Yes my tyre pressures are all fine.
Could well be the camber of the road tho Splinter.
I'll keep my eye on it over the next few weeks
Cheers fellas.
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What the difference between these exactly?
My Mazda6 veers slightly to the left. Tyre wear is even.
So I was wondering would this be the tracking or would I best be getting a laser alignment? Would a main dealer do laser alignment, or is it a specialist job?
Apart from the niggling fact that it veers, are there any more significant long term consequences if its left unattended?
Cheers folks
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scouse_dave is a very knowledgeable old member whos input on here is greatly missed.
Works in F1 or similar I believe.
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I dont have my Celica any more so does HugeTititus count?
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I got 2 samples.
Seems it doesnt check postcode/address only email, so put in all your email addresses!
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Its an easy job, but can be a messy one.
Removing the old filter can be a little tricky, so I would advise you get a chain wrench.
The old one on mine seized, and it was only a chain wrench that could budge it.
I replaced the filter with a TRD one, which has a nut on the end to make this a lot easier next time around.
If you dont fancy doing it yourself its worth considering supplying your own oil and filter and getting local garage to do it. I wouldnt think they charge too much.
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H7 headlights, 501 sidelights.
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I just bought a pair of these Orsam H1's for my Mazda 6 main beam from that very same seller. (arrived yesterday) I'll be fitting them as soon as my LED sidelights arrive (from Hong Kong) so I can do them both in one go as I need to remove the airbox to change bulbs on the passenger side!
I'll let you know my findings.
Philips X-Tremes are very good.
They now do a +100% version of these. I put X-Tremes +80%'s in the missus' old car, and found these to be very good, so I would imagine the +100%'s are excellent.
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As back boxes typically do not tend to rust away due to water/salt etc being chucked up onto it from the road, but primarily rot from the inside out due to acidic water vapour build-up over time, I've heard some people actually drill small holes at both ends of the box in order to drain this nasty stuff off and hence prolong its life.
Does anyone here do this? If so, would this have emissions/noise implications?
Wouldnt it possibly cause even more damage knowing its possible for more crap on the roads to find its way inside the system?
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All very nice indeed
but I have to say, the 2 white Gen7's have given me quite a moist sensation in my underpants
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How many coats did you do.
you need at least 3 coats on a "virgin" caliper before it starts looking good.
Make sure they are properly dry before you drive it, as if brake dust gets into tacky paint, then thats not good
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Get a pair of Philips X-Tremes
I use 100W's in for main beams. bit of extra oomph when you need it, and they are never on for too long to worry about. Never had any problems up to now (touch wood)
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10K will never pass an MOT, and as already said, your visibility will be utter rubbish, especially in the wet.
LEDs are fine for side lights as long as they are yellow/white
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That Kit on the bottom pic. makes the car look evil
Me too butty. I dont think I've seen that one before.
Stunning.
On the subject of alloy colours on a red, 1 million percent bronze FTW.
In particular Lenso Samurai SC02's
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I got my blueprint parts locally from CAS.Appears they have an online store as well though the site does not confirm if the parts are actually blueprint.A phone call may clarify though:
http://shop.central-auto.co.uk/product/dos...2006/BR/PADS-BR
I've sent them a question, so see what they say.
Cheers butty
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Manufacturers generally tend to set their speedos to read approx 10% too fast.
Ie. when your doing 30mph, your actually doing about 27mph.
Does this mean the mileage readings will be 10% over actual mileage?
And an obscure one: Does driving in reverse clock up mileage?
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Thanks Arvi.
I was trying to find blueprint pads as it happens, but I couldnt find any links anywhere (bear in mind I need them for a 56 1.3 Yaris)
Plenty of forum links, but I cant seem to find one to actually buy some
Brake discs: grooved, drilled, dimpled?
in General Celica Discussion
Posted · Edited by hawker
Grooved/drilled etc look nice, but for road use you will not get any benefit in braking whatsoever.
If anything, for every day use they are more of a pain because:
1. more likely to make clicking noises on braking which can become a major irritation. (personally i didnt get this when I fitted them (black diamonds) but i have heard such stories off other members)
2. pads will wear quicker compared to plain discs.
I would stick to plain and simple discs unless your a track nut or you want it to look "better"
I would advise to hammerite the drums and rims of all new discs you fit to prevent them rusting and looking dreadful, as no matter what brand of disc you fit, you will invariably get this.