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hawker

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Posts posted by hawker

  1. Grooved/drilled etc look nice, but for road use you will not get any benefit in braking whatsoever.

    If anything, for every day use they are more of a pain because:

    1. more likely to make clicking noises on braking which can become a major irritation. (personally i didnt get this when I fitted them (black diamonds) but i have heard such stories off other members)

    2. pads will wear quicker compared to plain discs.

    I would stick to plain and simple discs unless your a track nut or you want it to look "better"

    I would advise to hammerite the drums and rims of all new discs you fit to prevent them rusting and looking dreadful, as no matter what brand of disc you fit, you will invariably get this.

  2. I've just purchased their service plan off them too for my missus' Yaris.

    Its £15 a month and it covers all service costs over the next 3 years.

    Seeing as you can pay £100-£150+ for a service at an independent, I thought this isnt too bad a deal.

    I enquired as to the costs of the next 3 services for it, and it works out to be around £200 saving.

    Added bonus is that you dont get stung with the big hit per service, and the cost is fixed, so immune to any inflation/price rises etc.

  3. I usually check my oil level when the engine is cold (or at least has only been turned over for a minute or two)

    I thought I'd Google it today to see what the consensus is on this, and the differences in opinions on this are huge, which I find quite alarming considering it is such a basic maintenance necessity on a car.

    So, when do YOU check yours? cold, hot or somewhere in between?

    :)

  4. I think its pretty impressive what can be achieved with kits these days.

    ok, its not my cup of tea, but if someone loves those bently's then its an option i suppose.

    however, i'm amazed anyone bids on such kit cars without seeing them in the flesh. its impossible to tell the quality of the kit and fit etc. just by a few small pictures.

  5. What the difference between these exactly?

    My Mazda6 veers slightly to the left. Tyre wear is even.

    So I was wondering would this be the tracking or would I best be getting a laser alignment? Would a main dealer do laser alignment, or is it a specialist job?

    Apart from the niggling fact that it veers, are there any more significant long term consequences if its left unattended?

    Cheers folks

    :thumbs:

  6. Its an easy job, but can be a messy one.

    Removing the old filter can be a little tricky, so I would advise you get a chain wrench.

    The old one on mine seized, and it was only a chain wrench that could budge it.

    I replaced the filter with a TRD one, which has a nut on the end to make this a lot easier next time around.

    If you dont fancy doing it yourself its worth considering supplying your own oil and filter and getting local garage to do it. I wouldnt think they charge too much.

  7. I just bought a pair of these Orsam H1's for my Mazda 6 main beam from that very same seller. (arrived yesterday) I'll be fitting them as soon as my LED sidelights arrive (from Hong Kong) so I can do them both in one go as I need to remove the airbox to change bulbs on the passenger side! :(

    I'll let you know my findings.

    Philips X-Tremes are very good.

    They now do a +100% version of these. I put X-Tremes +80%'s in the missus' old car, and found these to be very good, so I would imagine the +100%'s are excellent.

  8. As back boxes typically do not tend to rust away due to water/salt etc being chucked up onto it from the road, but primarily rot from the inside out due to acidic water vapour build-up over time, I've heard some people actually drill small holes at both ends of the box in order to drain this nasty stuff off and hence prolong its life.

    Does anyone here do this? If so, would this have emissions/noise implications?

    Wouldnt it possibly cause even more damage knowing its possible for more crap on the roads to find its way inside the system?

  9. Manufacturers generally tend to set their speedos to read approx 10% too fast.

    Ie. when your doing 30mph, your actually doing about 27mph.

    Does this mean the mileage readings will be 10% over actual mileage? :)

    And an obscure one: Does driving in reverse clock up mileage? :o

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