joe588
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Posts posted by joe588
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Looks good! Did you flat it off before putting the lacquer on?
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Are you making sure to top up with brake fluid as the air comes out? I spent ages doing this then realised I was topping up the clutch fluid
Sounds like you have a leak somewhere that's drawing in air.
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R33? Eww. Ugly and fat as shite. R32 or R34 all the way mate
I was moaning the other day because I paid 30odd quid for a genuine fuel filter with discount from Toyota but when I got it, it was so perfect and with a shiny holographic logo I soon quit moaning
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Johnyboy1976's i think nix!
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I asked for a discount on a knock sensor, magically he dropped it from 169 to 122. Heh, if you don't ask you don't get and all that.
Not that I'm buying it, think I'll just get a second hand one from nokia.
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Well I would... but I have a high milage engine and they recommend anything over 50k, you have to pull the sump and clean it out before you start it. Reason being it'll drag sludge in there which could get sucked back into the oilpump and block it.
Think that's where all the bad press about oil flush comes from, though I can't see it being a problem if you clean the sump out!
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I tried it once, didn't really do anything except make a massive cloud of smoke out the back. May as well bung it in though.
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Anybody going to try their oil and coolant flushes then
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Nice one giz!
Can't see where you mean about the pipes though. It's called a valve transmission so i think it could be from the gear box?
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Finally got a code. 52, knock sensor. Bollocks, aren't these a complete arse to change? Is there a guide anywhere?
Also, does this mean the ECU detected excessive knock from a lean mix or does it mean the sensor is knackered?
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Nah no codes stored
Bugging me now. Boost stutters at constant revs. -
I'm getting 13.4mpg and I've lost power. Smells very rich indeed. No codes, plugs and leads are good. Is there anyway to test the coil etc without buying new ones?
Will I be ok fitting an st185 fuel filter to it? I have a brand new one but it's physically bigger but the bolt ends are the same size.
Not too bothered about the fuel consumption, it's just the power I want back
Also, I found some sort of one way valve in the engine bay loose, not attached to anything. it has the part number 90925-01059. Would this have anything to do with it?
9092501059 $44.33 $0.00 $35.46
VALVE, VACUUM TRANSM
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Hey this stuff really works!
Just took a plug out and the top of the piston is like brand new metal and I can see 20 or 26 imprinted on.
Wow!
Terrible picture, but it's quite hard take a good one
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Hmm, I have a gallon of acetone and a gallon of methanol in the garage, might have a fiddle.
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Not essential for lacquer, may as well if you already have the stuff though. Just make sure to flat the paint down before you spray it on.
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Thanks. Yes, I did quite enjoy it in fact! Very rewarding (if you take it slowly and it works.) Thanks for the orange peel tip - I would always be scared to use abrasive paper (even very fine) on new paint but there you go, you learn something new everyday as they say.
A neighbour just asked if I would do his car next - and he was serious. I think I need to learn a bit more on my car first.
Thanks again
Yeah you're right, the paint needs to be hard, 24 hours should do it though. Just be gentle
If you look at my diagram above, you'll see what I mean. -
Looking excellent mate! nice work, it's quite fun isn't it?
One tip, the tcut won't get rid of orange peel if there is any. You need to sand with the 1500. Let it dry and see if there is still tiny dimples. As soon as you have something that looks like a blackboard if you know what I mean, then you can tcut
You probably know this, but I drew for anyone else interested in trying. This is how to get paint shiny. There is a common misconception that if it's not shiny then it needs more lacquer.
This is just assuming a solid colour with no lacquer, or the top coat of lacquer. If you're spraying a solid colour then you should sand it flat before the lacquer too, but metallics can go funny if you sand them. They'll still look alright, but the little bits of fleck become uneven so it's best to spray it as flat as you can.
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Also, I've done 215 miles on a tank of fuel, somethings up here.
Not driving like a willy either!
Video of the problem. Doesn't rise as high as last night but the engine wasn't as hot
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Ahh, problem to fix. What do you think it could be? Leak in brake booster line or something? or brake cylinders themselves?
Possible air leak from the brake booster maybe
Snap! Yeah, think I'll try this tomorrow.
If I spray WD40 allover everything, the revs should rise if there's a leak?
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Yeah rub round about 8-12 inches with the 1500. you can buy this in halfords.
then spray it like a gradient out from the repair.
Looking good though! you have the curve spot on
you making sure to use a sanding block? Hard bit of wood will do It takes a lot more sanding than you think. As it is in your pics, you'll be able to see the edges of your filler when you paint. Also an essential tip... after you think it's flat, spray a light coat of something a different colour. Then blocksand it again and you'll be able to see the high and low spots
take your time, the prep is 90% of the job
Remember to sand the full thing including the bit you've just blended it into with the 1500 at the end too
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As above, I just noticed this today. I think it probably is normal, but I thought I better check!
When idling if I press the brake pedal a few times then the revs rise to about 1400 from 800 and then drop back down. Is this normal or do I have an air leak or something?
Cheers!
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235/40/17 are 1.3% difference over the standard 215/50-16 (i think)
are you on 17x7 wheels?
got a pic of the wheel/tyre?
On 17x8 buddy
Here you go... Tyres stick out a fair bit, but it's the correct size for the car.
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You need to blend it in like you said. if you just mask a square, you'll end up with a raised square when you take the tape off. sand about 8 inches round your repair with 1500 before you spray, then it will blend in when you wetsand it all and polish up.
make sure you use a very high build primer after your filler, if you're just using rattle cans then go to halfords and get the filler primer with the yellow lid. it's pretty good stuff but needs to be put on in very light coats or it cracks, and needs to be block sanded afterwards. block sanding is very important in all sanding stages or it'll look lumpy
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I have 235/40/17 on an 8 inch rim and they're within 0.1% of the standard rolling radius on the st205, not sure if it'd be the same on the gen7?
Last resort - ask on here! Haha
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Good power that izzy, what have you done to the engine? Is that about 270 at the fly?