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Infiniteblue

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Posts posted by Infiniteblue

  1. Tbh also had good experience of Halfords auto centres last couple of yrs on the gen7 had 2 free mots outta em last couple of years and passed first time surprisingly with great customer service too they do seem to have some good services and seem best of the bunch.

    Just noticed some reasonable sounding deals on tyres at the mo actually using code PAID20 there's a few diff sizes available the below link takes 17" at just over 40 quid a corner on toyo proxies.

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-225-45-17-R17-94Y-Toyo-Proxes-TR1-TR1-Road-Tyres-2254517-New-T1R-/141376785964?ul_ref=https%3A%2F%2Frover.ebay.com%2Frover%2F1%2F710-53481-19255-0%2F1%3Fff3%3D4%26pub%3D5574894536%26toolid%3D10001%26campid%3D5336549684%26customid%3D1920774796%26mpre%3Dhttps%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fitm%2F4-x-225-45-17-R17-94Y-Toyo-Proxes-TR1-TR1-Road-Tyres-2254517-New-T1R-%2F141376785964%26srcrot%3D710-53481-19255-0%26rvr_id%3D2314040138069%26rvr_ts%3D83c06c621700a9e838d4ec7effe52976&ul_noapp=true&redirect=mobile

  2. Tbh also had good experience of Halfords auto centres last couple of yrs on the gen7 had 2 free mots outta em last couple of years and passed first time surprisingly with great customer service too they do seem to have some good services and seem best of the bunch.

  3. Well that's plenty of time for it to dry out!!

    Must be quite a comprehensive service none of the quotes I got took that long

     

    Oh just another thing as a bit of a pointer I'd make sure the garage is offering dinitrol and not actually waxoyl it's a better product and I found the better places only offer that and not actually waxoyl

  4. You'd think garages like this operating this sort of service all year round would have some form of drying arrangements now, but tbh I don't fully trust em and I'd wait for a nice spell spending 750 sovs.

    When I first got mine I looked around a lot for this sortta service and your price doesn't seem too bad compared, but I was never quite happy with the owners assurances and premises, in the end I compromised and addressed the worst areas myself, and then booked it in for a schutz undersealing my Toyota dealer does for 60 quid, but I must have rearranged it 5 times due to the weather that summer until in the end I just said sod it and got it done on a tepid day, but if u don't get it done right can do more harm than good, I think I'd wait for a bit myself personally unless you can drive to Tenerife and get it done there!!

     

    What sortta notice do they give for booking in?

  5. I've sortta grown to quite like those p flaps but I'm not sure they'd look good on all colours, not sure about blue for instance, but yeah I think the price is way excessive for what they are, I've thought about it, but personally I think maybe going down the route of akuma with a decal or wrap coordinated to the individual car's a better route

  6. Hiya cheers, no the discs are just normal 'non-grooved' but thanks for the suggestion, think they were all ebay/ecp cheapies they're terrible look coal powered or something, thought about painting them black but not a real fan of that, but it's really thick stuff hard to remove, I can't understand it the rears are just as bad and it's not as though I'm practicing emergency stopping!!

    Yeah I've heard about the wheel wax, if I can get them clean in the first place!, is it actually different than just 'normal' car wax?

  7. The brake dust on my wheels is shocking, black thick and really unsightly totally ruining any look of my wheels.

    I've tried painting the inserts dark and still look crap.

    I've not long put new discs and pads on there (think they were standard mintex y type things).

    Has anyone got any tips on a) removing the dust and keeping it at bay

    b) anything I can put on the wheels that 'll help it not stick/make em easier to clean

    c) any other solutions at all like brake pad brands that give off silver dust thatd be handy!!

  8. I've noticed on my driveshafts think the o/s I'll double check, there's a piece of rubber integral about halfway along it that seems to be 'disintegrating' is this like a dampener or anti-vibration thing along it? has anyone any experience of this?

    And does this mean it's gonna snap at some point?

    Cheers in advance for any help

  9. I did a great 'mod' to mine when/instead of replacing the rusting ps cooler pipe by installing a filter a lot easier and cheaper keeps the fluid clear and allows for easy quick subsequent flushing if you need too tho u can also replace the filter element, u can also install it in a 'cooler' position by moving the hoses, have to say it's worked a treat on mine my steering was slightly noisy before now it's dead smooth if anyone wants a link let me know, 1 litres defo enough for mine

  10. Think it may help with cleaning and keeping parts lubed up I've read about adding 2 stroke but not tried that people even use diesel I've experimented with acetone, paraffin and white spirity type higher up the aromatic carbon chain type solvents in the past with varying success you've just not got to overdue it, from what I can remember that's all pretty much what's in redex anyway and prolly the detergent type additives in vpower petrol etc. I think atf mite be another one I've seen on good ol youtube

  11. Thanks for the advice guys,  yeah I got free mot vouchers with a purchase at Halfords last year that are due to runout, it actually passed with just a couple of advisories last time to my amazement but just a bit more worried they've got me over a barrel this time, but I suppose that's generally the issue now.

     

    But actually xanadu come to think of it that's a good point now, there is a council place just round the corner I've used in the past, but I wonder how it works now with them when your now not supposed to be able to drive a car away with a 'dangerous' defect even if there's test remaining when they don't do repairs, any recent experience on this one?

    20 hours ago, Xanadu said:

    Try and find a dedicated MoT centre - one that doesn't do repairs and servicing etc - you'll get a fairer test.

     

  12. Yeah Scottish cars do seem to fare worse I suppose that may contribute to them being slightly cheaper generally and the Midlands cars do seem to last longer.

    It seems a slightly inexact science cos yeah the well used 'hammered' ones do sometimes appear to be better which may ironically make them better purchases on older cars, maybe it's the renewed airflow drying them out not letting water sit etc.

    If yours is a weekender sly you maybe want to weigh up where you park it when yours is sorted.

    7 hours ago, slybunda said:

    Daily drivers seem to have less rust than ones that sit around most of the time. Very odd.

     

    On 19/08/2019 at 15:31, ams said:

    Agree on Scottish cars - have seen some that have been really bad from there.  Most coastal cars seem to be bad

     

    Cars from around the midlands seem to be ok. 

     

  13. I've just squirted stuff in thro the drain holes on the older ones they can rust but like under the sill covers sometimes it helps to drill one of the holes a bit bigger to get the applicators in u can take the doorcards off but can be a bit of a pain to get back on there mite be an easier way tho e.g. removing the handle/screw holes? but I haven't tried that

     

  14. Bit of a topic for debate here, but generally hypothetically what sort of tips mite anyone have for spotting a non rusty car/celica?I

     

    My initial tuppenys worth!!

     

    Scotland seems to b a rustier hotbed/belt.

    Be wary of low milers.

    Obviously check mot history for signs also btw would any one rule out previous rusty brake pipes as a precautionary precursor?

    Get one of those camera on a stethoscope thingys and insert it into the sills with the top cover removed as well as the osr subframe.

     

    Anyone else with any more experience have any other useful hacks/ideas on the subject?

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