CrunchyAdams82
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Posts posted by CrunchyAdams82
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10 hours ago, G.Lewarne said:
Righto, just bought a key with fob module complete off eBay for £17.95 inc post (not too bad). My original choise was apparently wrong and AMS pointed me towards one that should work.
So when I receive it, ill remove the blade part, stick in a new battery and reprogram the buttons. But my question still remains - do you have to do the whole procedure or just the last part for fob only ?
You got a picture or link of what you bought?
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Ahh, I see. Ok, so essentially I just need to find a replacement fob as cheap as possible then. How did you manage to get one for £5?!
And the next question would be could other Toyota car model fobs be used instead of a Celica specific one? That would make the search a wee bit easier.
I'm sure there must be a few alternatives of a similar year with the same internals..wouldn't you agree?
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1 hour ago, VVTI said:
eBay order was a complete key second hand. It had all the buttons and battery like the one you already have. I cut the blade off as it was cut for the original car it came off so no good for me. But I took my original key to the key cutting shop to make the spare key as they can make a new key and copy the ecu chip so you can deactivate the immobiliser automatically when the key is in the ignition.
So the only thing I'm unsure about is..
If I buy a replacement fob off ebay, can that be reprogrammed to any Celica simply by following the procedure you referenced earlier, or do I need to take this replacement key to somewhere like Timpsons and have them copy the ECU chip in my existing fob?
Does that make sense?
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7 hours ago, VVTI said:
Found the instructions
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkAmazing! Thanks for all the info fella. That's just perfect. Exactly what I need to do..
So just to clarify;
1. What was it you ordered off ebay for £5?
2. And what did you get from Timpsons exactly for £35?
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Ok, well I opened up the fob case and found out what battery it is anyway.
It's a CR1616 Lithium cell, for reference.
So ordered up myself a few of those..
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So, I've only got one key for my 2002 Gen 7. This has the potential to be a real problem;
a. If the battery runs flat, or
b. If I lose it
I have a few questions..
1. Which battery do these fobs take? As mine seems to be nearing the end of its life. Can take ages to get the car locked. Quite annoying at times..
2. What route have others taken with regards to obtaining a second remote fob? As a local locksmith suggested it could cost somewhere in the region of £100 to get one made up & programmed. And you need a working remote fob to start the car. But I really should have a backup for peace of mind.
Anyone dealt with this situation before?
Thanks in advance.
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1 hour ago, Kev 16v said:
Millers products are very highly regarded. On the basis that the TRX semi is likely to be of higher quality to that used in the factory in Japan, that is what I chose for my Gen 7.
Ok, well that's good then..because that's exactly what I ordered!
Would have loved to shell out for the Redline MT-90, but couldn't get convinced enough that it would be noticeably better. Maybe it is..I don't know.
I'm sure what I've ordered will undoubtedly be an improvement over what's currently in there anyway. At 52,000 miles it's quite possibly never been changed..and for a 15 year old car, I'm bound to notice a positive difference with what I've ordered anyway.
I'll post up once it's done & report my findings..
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Can't access the link unfortunately chap. Thanks for all your help though. Enjoy your afternoon!
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Wow, that's great. Cheers bud!
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Awesome. Watching that now.
How tricky is it to fit?
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Hmm, ok..interesting ideas. All parts can be found on eBay? Any links?
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Excellent. Cheers for that. Hopefully it makes a difference then, and helps with those notchy gear changes. 5th to 4th can be a right pain in the ass sometimes!
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Ok, great. I'll get some ordered up today then & let you know how I get on.
How many litres do the gen 7 gearboxes take btw?
And how long should it take a competent garage to do the job?
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Ok, spot on. Thanks for the advice chaps. I'll go with the semi-synthetic option then.
I've heard the Millers that I linked is a good option. Any thoughts on that?
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So the synthetic is more than double the price. Don't want to cheap out, but is it really worth paying the extra?
Bearing in mind that this is probably something you will only be replacing very rarely..so if it's worth it, you might as well pay a bit more to get the best.
Anybody who's tried both, who can give an honest comparison?
Millers semi-synthetic - £25.86
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171591371328
Millers fully synthetic - £61.21
Redline MT-90 - £74.95
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They were as tight as you'd expect them to be when I removed them..
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4 minutes ago, shaungt4 said:
When i got my 190 which is pre face so had the old style bolts . I changed them in the first week of owning her and they were not scored like that. General wear and tear or could have been a lack of oil at some point.
Yeah, I guess the updated bolt type wear slightly differently to the old style ones. Either that, or there's something seriously wrong with my engine! Lol.
Runs beautifully though..so hopefully everything is how it ought to be..
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No idea how many miles they'd done tbh. The car is on 51,000 and they were presumably not the originals due to the car being a 2002. Pretty sure that would have had the the old style bolts fitted at the start of its life..
So who knows..20k, 30k..Your guess is as good as mine.
I do find it strange how they wear close to the bottom though. And how if they snapped at that point, would it be a problem? Because the scoring is nowhere near the thread. And how do they even get scored like that? What causes it?
Baffles me.
Looking at what I found though, I think I'll be ordering maybe 6 more bolts, and checking them semi-regularly as a matter of cause..then changing them when required. Maybe 10,000 mile intervals..or sooner if necessary.
It's such an easy job..even for someone with only basic skills. And virtually costs nothing to do. So might as well stock up & replace them regularly..rather than suffer the alternative I reckon.
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Ok, so update time. Lift bolts have been replaced!
Took it for a quick drive and only got to use lift in 2nd gear a few times due to heavy traffic..but it worked. Felt a bit different, but maybe it will take a short time to adjust to the new bolts.
Here's some pics of old vs new..
As you can see, the old ones were of the newer design bolts..but badly worn. Glad I replaced them now!
Anybody reckon these were close to breaking?
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Thanks for your help guys, wheel is all sorted now.
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4 minutes ago, jon_gt4 said:
It may be a weird lighting issue but, if it isn't, be aware that the colour of your old alloy is not standard, so they have been painted some time. OEM is bright silver.
Yes, they have been sprayed up. So I'd have to respray the new one that I get to match.
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Hi guys, as in the title I need a rim for my 2002 Gen 7.
Just been to get new tyres put on..which I was quite excited about..until the guy showed me that one of my wheels is buckled & got a massive crack in it!
So just wondering if anybody has a spare knocking about that I can take off your hands? It looks really dangerous, so need to get this sorted asap really.
This is the rim style in question..
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Andy
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It does sound strange, because the bolts are static. They're either in there where they're supposed to be..holding it all together, or they're not. The guy who posted it was a long standing member of the club & the one who did the write up on changing the bolts, so he sounded really knowledgeable. That's why it's confusing. But yeah, I'm assuming it will work straight away. And presuming it does, I'm not sure what he was on about tbh. But we shall see. Hopefully I can find time to do it quickly this morning. Just got to get my tyres changed, then a quick trip to halfords for some bits, then crack on.
Thanks for your input. I'll let you know how I get on.
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There we go..right at the bottom. Any ideas?
Gen 7 parcel shelf rattle..
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Hey M33R4.
I did two things to solve this problem in the end;
1. Run 2 strips of foam tape on either side where the parcel shelf rests
2. Coil some Insulation tape (or similar) around the boot catch. This will stop the latch rattling.
Hope that helps.