Smwebb1993
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Posts posted by Smwebb1993
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30 minutes ago, Tomb said:
In my opinion we need to get Ian and Dean within the calendar, to show the club is also about the people.
(Sorry this is taken from the meeting thread so low res, I am sure Cipprio has a higher quality copy of it available).
Thats a very good idea, I think Ian’s picture and his celica should be on the front cover of the calendar
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Sent a few photos from by other half’s email bethanyatkinhewitt@yahoo.co.uk
can you let me know if you recieved it please thankyou
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On 06/03/2018 at 23:41, Tiddles said:
Can an insurance company force me to accept the wright off valuation of my car?
They have made an insulting offer and I am disputing it.
Service history would defiantly make it worth more, as previous comments greenlight are one if the best insures around, I sure you with all mods covered, extras such as third party cover on other vehicles which are fully insured by another personable when I wrote my car off I was offered £2220 for my import with over 150,000 miles, it did have mods which put the price up but was able to buy it back for about £460 to reclaim most of the mods that were not damaged
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9 hours ago, dublet said:
VPower is actually quite low octane in the UK compared to continental Europe.
In any case you'll only notice a difference with a JDM ECU.
Sent from my Nexus 9 using Tapatalk
Don't some shell garages offer v power which is 99 octane as I'm sure I read somewhere that only Tesco momentum and some Shell stations that offer v power is 99 octane?
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It depends if your planning future mods which require a colder spark plug,
i run a nitrous setup and for that i have gone two stages colder using NGK lasor welded iridium spark plugs, not cheap, I paid £25 due to getting discount but I think for a set they normally cost about £35
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I use the Tesco momentum 99, yes the quality of fuel isn't as good but I havnt had any problems with it, tbh unless u have a jdm celica like I have then there is no point putting 99 octane in your car as the European celicas are tuned to run on 95 rob while the jdm are tuned for the japenease market which is 98-100 Ron
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23 hours ago, kennywku88 said:
Hi all im looking to buy set of new sparks is this the right Part Number: IFR6T11 for a 190 there ngk laser iridium thanks.
I have a set of them in mine, I got mine from our local motor parts dealer, I'm sure Euro car parts would also do them?
i paid about £25 for a set due to me getting massive discount
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7 hours ago, EasyRight89 said:
Exactly this, it's only the JDM ECUs that are set to run at 100 RON (which we can't even get here).
Not too much point running premium in a UK spec 7, power isn't really high enough to make a difference.
Correction, if I'm not mistaken I'm sure the Silverstone have a fuel station which can be used by cars that go on track I.e race days or track days and I'm sure that they supply 102 octane
yer I run mine on 99 octane and it runs nicely on that, plus as stated above I have no choice as have nitrous fitted and it be a death sentence to my car if I run it on anything less lol
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On 06/05/2017 at 18:36, dublet said:
Only JDM models have ECUs that take higher RON into account AFAIK.
Yer mine is a jdm, it runs on 95 but doesn't seem to like it much compared to higher octane fuels
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Bit late on this but thought I would add my opinion, I find you get more mpg on better quality fuels such as shell or bp for the same octane rating such as 95 ron, as for premium fuels you won't see any benifit in getting better mpg, having super unleaded in a vehicle that doesn't run high compression is pointless as high octane fuels on their own don't give more power or better mpg, they just allow you to increase your power without getting pre ignition, I personally run Tesco momentum which is 99 octane/ron due to running nitrous as it's needed to prevent pre ignition due to the internal Temperatures in the combustion chamber when nitrous is being sprayed
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If certain components are obstructed then they really need to wright it down as an advisory to cover their back just incase the component that they couldn't inspect fails as they can't removed any parts during an MOT by law
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Thought magnetic ones have mag on inside core if plug to catch metal particles?
Yes they do, the magnet is only there to catch metal filings, the best way is to tighten the sump plug properly as that was the only reason it came out.
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It takes a good couple of minutes for the majority of the oil to come out anyway so you most likely stopped just in time plus what celica do you drive as 3 litres does not sound much at all most cars hold at least 4-5, looking at your profile pic I will guess that you drive a gen 7 which in fact holds 5 litres, as for the sump bung if the threads were not stripped then the only reason would be that it wasn't tight enough, plus rule of thumb is that if it has a copper washer then they are pretty much a one hit only as the copper washer compresses when you tighten the bung up so once compressed it can't be compressed again to form another seal so that's why you should always put a new one on, you sometimes get a new washer in the oil filter kit if you buy a decent oil filter.
Basically next time when you do an oil change next, replace the washer and do the bung up fairly tight, a little trick I have learned is that change the oil when still warm that way obvious oil comes out quicker and metal expands when hot do you can do the the nut up tighter as if you tighten the sump bung when sump is cold then it may feel tight but as soon the sump gets hot along with vibration can cause the sump bung to come loose, if you do just want piece of mind then re tighten the sump bung after a couple of days.
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Yer as don't forget your modding your car in the way that you think looks good not what other people think looks good, tbh it doesn't matter what your car looks like you will always get somebody who won't like it, if you like then get it, as the above post said keep your old number though so you can refit it once you come to sell your car.
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In the end I just had to sell this, the bills were killing me and a turbo rebuild won't have been far off. I hope to get another one day though when I have a decent garage.
Was it a twin turbo or single, it looks like a single, would love to have a supra, it's like my dream car that in reality I could afford to keep if I can get the money together to buy one lol.
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I drove a bright yellow saxo forte 5 door, god I do not miss that lol
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Red long life coolant is recommended to be changed every 5 years, blue is every 3 years
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Yer those are the only two options you have got, mist likely best to try and hit a smaller socket on as hopefully the vibrations will help to loosen the rust that's holding the bolt in
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That's good stuff, I take it the solution has a chemical reaction to the rust to transform it back to it's original state rather than eat the rust away or is it that what it actually does as I'm not familiar with the product.
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I'm 23 work at Norwich international airport as a ground support engineer, always been into cars, especially in the last 2 years where I have slowly been modding my gen 7 Celica to the way I want it.
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It's spelt Shutz. You get a special spray gun that screws directly into the tins to apply it.
This is the stuff I use.
Sorry for the spelling error lol
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Red oxide is normally a 2 pack paint used obviously on ferrous metals as a primer coat, plenty of people still use it and you can easily buy it of the shelf. I use it a lot at my workplace a to apply a base coat on equipment that needs refurbishing to neutralise any existing rust and to stop any further rust. To be honest the best way to really kill rust is to remove it totally ie if it's surface rust then grind or sand it away, if it's actually penetrated right into the metal then you will have to cut it out and then weld a new piece on place, from then you obviously put your primer on then your top coat then your lacquer.
I had bad experience with hammerite many years ago in that I painted the drivers floorpan which had surface rust on it. 6 months later my foot went through it. I was an old escort though so made out of baked bean cans.
I tend to be a bit skeptical about some of the newer 'wonderpaints' for the same reason, so I tend to go the more traditional route of red oxide paint onto the metal. I then tend to do a layer of 'conformal coating' - something we use in electronics as it's moisture repellant, and finally a layer of underseal for it's anto chip properties.
I have been told waxoil isn't great on the exterior as it's too soft and gets washed / brushed off fairly quickly. I normally use this for inner structure such as inside sills, doors etc.
The most important thing is to get as much rust as possible off first, and above all ensure it's absolutetly dry so you're not sealing in moisture - otherwise it will rot quicker than ever. Don't underestimate how long it takes for moisture to evaporate from nooks & crannies - especially if there is still dirt or rust in them.
Yer wax oil on it's own will do nothing but wash off after a couple of months, what you need to do is put shilts on (don't know if I have actually spelt that right) which is oil based which hardens after a couple of hours, it also disk in to the metal an neutralises any rust that is present, you then put wax oil over the top of this and to my understanding because of the different chemical properties of the shilts, the wax oil tends to stick to the shilts a lot better and lasts so much longer.
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It ended up just being a faulty coil pack on number 1 cylinder in the end, easy fix thank god
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You can actually buy red oxide which can be sprayed on aswell
Ceramic coating paintwork?
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
I use ceramic coating on some of the parts I have got on the car, it’s really good stuff, the only downside is that that you will need to use ph neutral soaps aswell as a rejuvenising ceramic spray afterwards to like top the ceramic coating up as the stuff won’t last forever but lasts a lot longer than any wax you can buy