lb423
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Posts posted by lb423
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The 7,8,9,10,11 figures look like they have been measured in degrees so would be interested to see some clarification on what they are.
I wouldn't base ride height on the gap between the arches. I'm not sure what it is standard but front and rear arch gaps do not ofter match. Might be worth checking the gap between the sills and the road at the front and rear. But again it would be best if someone could provide the standard factory measurements so you can make an accurate comparison.
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I can't believe they don't have any black ink left, seems a bit unprofessional to me...
But it is still readable as all the figures are in the same order as my printout. Although I'm not sure what the 7,8,9,10,11 degree figures are for? All the figures seem reasonable to me, other than the rear camber. Over -2 degrees and you will likely get some uneven tyre wear. I suggest some whiteline camber bolts to sort that as its likely that the standard bolts will not have sufficed adjustment even if you unseize them.
The slight difference in ride height is due to the corner weighting. They adjust the coils to change preload, which evens out the corner weights. You could change ride height but would have to change all 4 corners the same amount to maintain the set up. But as before I really don't think you will notice this unless you plan on driving the car near the limit. I would suggest a track day is in order [emoji4]
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This happened to 3 out of 4 pins on my rear calipers. What to do is cut out the centre section of the pin so you are left with one bit stuck in either side, then when you hit it with a hammer you will only need half the force to move it [emoji106] also once you get one side of the pin out you can use a long punch and hit the other one from both sides. This worked for all of mine except one, which I had to use a drill on
EDIT: Ahh ignore that just realised your calipers are different to mine.. I really should go to bed, been working all night [emoji1]
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Yea the Toyota spec is perfectly fine to go with, especially if it is just for normal road use. I decided to go for a little more negative camber to provide increased grip when cornering. By lowering your car this will have increased negative camber, which they will adjust back to the Toyota spec unless you tell them otherwise. One thing that might be worth checking is that they are using the correct figures. They will enter your reg into the machine and it should come up the figures as per the Toyota workshop manual. I'm sure someone on here will have a link to the manual..?
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Yea mine was way off as I had just rebuild the entire car [emoji1] Yours shouldn't be as far off as that, and yea it definitely help if there are no seized bolts as you will get charged an hourly rate to make any adjustments. It's a very impressive piece of kit, and very accurate. Are you just going to get them to it set as per the Toyota specifications?
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Yea thats pretty much the same system. You should get a printout like this;
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Yes it usually means the same from my experience, do you know what system they are using for the 4 wheel alignment? If it's the Hunter system it will include all geometry settings, toe, camber, caster.
Also as above, no need for corner weighing unless you are tracking the car. You will only really notice the benefit if you are cornering on the 'limit'. If it is corner weighted then the 'limit' would be the same for both left and right hand cornering, assuming everything else is set perfect. More worth while on rear wheel drive cars, as it allows for more predictable drifting.
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I'm really curious to see how much it will sell for..
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This might be of interest to someone on here..
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151721632445?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Who says a GT4 can't be a sensible family car?
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As above.
Before painting the underside of the car I removed all of the plastic stickers that cover the chassis leg holes, not sure what you call them so I can't find replacements anywhere. They are about the size of a 2p and must be pretty sticky as they were still in place after 18 years.
If anyone has any idea where you can buy them or what the correct name for them is it would be appreciated.
Cheers,
Lee
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yea I had considered red diesel but don't want to be getting high everytime I go in the garage!
I'm currently trying to source some kerosene, petrol stations only do 5 litre containers and all the domestic fuel suppliers require a minimum order of 500 litres!!
Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
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Hi all,
I recently bought a parts cleaner for the garage, this one to be exact:
Question is what fluid should I use in it?
I typically use Jizer or Gunk for cleaning car parts but the tank requires 40 litres of the stuff so that would come in at around £150 for the fluid, more than the machine itself!
I know people use paraffin/kerosene or diesel, but are these as effective? and what would be the cheapest/best option?
Thanks in advance,
Lee
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Thanks for the replies, gives me a much better idea.
and Dickie that site is great, I love to know exactly what is going on
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I know there are loads of threads on tyres but I'm only interested in what people are running on 16 inch rims as I am having issues finding the right ones.
I currently have a set of Toyo Proxes T1-R 225/45 R16. I am not wanting to get the same again as the proxes are not that good in the wet and the wear down pretty quick (they are however pretty cheap).
If I stick with 225/45 then I only have a choice of a couple tyres but if I go for 225/55 then I get a massive choice. But that would mean the tyre profile jumping from 101mm to 124mm, how much of a difference would that make to the handling? what are other people running/have previously run?
Need some Wiper Blades
in Consumable Parts
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