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Knighty

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Posts posted by Knighty

  1. I'm going to finish off this post just incase anyone in future ever has the same questions.

    As per the below maintenance manual

    https://www.celicahobby.com/tech/2000-2005_toyota_celica_repair_manual_volume2.pdf

    The flywheel bolts of a manual transmission Celica does not require threadlock, only for the bolts to be torqued in a star pattern to 36lbf, followed by a further 90 degrees, again in a star pattern.

  2. Hmmmm, not good.

    I put an Exedy in mine. I had a little problem with clutch drag at first, but thankfully was an easy fix. Since fitting an Exedy, I've heard nothing but bad stories :rolleyes: Don't think they are as good as they used to be.

    Yeah I thought I'd cured it for a time just by adjusting the master a little bit, but soon came back. When I bought it I looked through reviews and most were extremely positive. I've since found out if you search for the right thing a lot of negatives appear.

    I had an exeddy stage 1 in mine too when I 1st charged her , Only lasted a few months before it started slipping. Replaced with an ACT HDSS which has been fine so far even now I'm running 367 bhp

    Good to see I'm not the only one to see the clutch fail prematurely, makes me feel a little more confident it is the clutch and not something worse.

    I guess all will be revealed in the coming weeks.

    I did consider an ACT clutch, but my experience with the Exedy has put me off aftermarket completely at the minute. Once I end up charged I'll either go ACT or Competition Clutch, as both seem to be a popular choice. Not looking to go as high as 367 so I should be safe with the ACT :lol:

    • Like 1
  3. How come twice in one year? Not a job to be doing bi-annually is it :D

    What clutch are you going for? ACT, Exedy etc....

    Tell me something I don't know! Hahaha.

    Put in an Exedy Stage 1 in January. And something isn't right. Clutch engagement is all over the place and bite is really snatchy some times and perfect the next. Also have intermittent clutch drag also along with other niggling issues.

    Thought it was a hydraulic issue at first, bled it through multiple times and had slave and master replaced, no change. So now I'm looking at the clutch as a cause.

    Looking online I've seen loads of posts about the same clutch and the friction material coming away from the disc. And other issues. Most of the time the clutch failing with less than 10k on it. Mines around 8k

    Won't be 100% until it comes out, all I can say is if that is the problem I won't touch another Exedy again.

    The next one is just going to be an OEM from Mr T. Supercharging won't be happening within the next year or so at least so will go back to stock for the foreseeable.

    a bit of stud lock wont hurt even if you have spring washers if you are concerned .

    Id change them out personally if they have been used a couple of times , I replaced mine with these, only takes a few days for them to arrive

    http://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=42_45_108&products_id=1726

    Thanks for the link! Didn't think of looking at MWR to be fair.

    They're quite reasonably priced so see no reason not to change them out!

    • Like 1
  4. Thanks to you both!

    Really appreciate the help.

    I'll take a look through the service manuals and see if it mentions anything. Hopefully the fly bolts will come precoated as you say, makes life much easier!

    Interesting to know about the spring washers. I guess most people just reuse the old ones. I'm just being pedantic really, but want to be as sure as possible that I won't have to open it all up again.. Twice in a year is getting a little expensive...

  5. I replace the flywheel bolts without question. New OEM bolts usually come pre-coated with the correct type threadlock anyway, but if not, make sure you use the recommended type as instructed.

    I've always re-used the cover bolts unless it's stated in the manual that they are not a re-useable item.

    I have reused flywheel bolts in the past with no adverse effect, but only on old Fords :D

    Thanks for the reply. I was definitely replacing flywheel bolts but didn't realise they may come with a threadlock on them.

    When I replaced the clutch earlier in the year, as far as I know the old pressure plate bolts were used, but didn't know what is recommended. Perhaps they aren't that expensive from Mr T, in which case, may aswell replace them.

    With regards to pressure plate bolts, threadlock or just torque?

  6. Need some advice if possible!

    So to cut a long story short I'll be replacing my gearbox, clutch and flywheel in the next couple of weeks. I was wondering if I should be replacing the pressure plate bolts along with the flywheel bolts?

    I'm not sure the stock clutch kit comes with the pressure plate bolts, so need to order them separate if they need to be replaced.

    And a final question, should threadlock be used on both the flywheel and pressure plate bolts? Doing a search on Google comes up with many different views on the subject.

    Thanks guys!

  7. I had MTEC grooved and EBC red stuff combo on for around 12 months, initially the combination was great, but I feel the red stuff pad was just way too hard (Pretty much like using a pair of bricks as pads). I'm not necessarily a heavy braker, but after about 8 months or so one discs were warped (only a little but could still feel it). Took the combination off last weekend to fit the new Wilwood dynalite kit I bought from Stewart @ Freaky and found there were heat spots all over the discs.

    Not for one minute blaming the disks, it looks like a had slightly sticky sliders on the original calipers... that combined with the redstuff pads I think caused it.

    I now have MTEC grooved and dimpled with Wilwood Dynalites and Wilwood pads Never been so confident in my braking. The wilwood pad seems a lot softer material, you can really feel it in the way the brake force is applied. Already got some Ferodo pads eye'd up for my next change.

  8. Looked at getting the Aero myself. but can't justify the price tag they currently carry. Plus I think the 2zz is a little more characterful than the boxer lump. never much been a fan of the scooby throb, not that you get much of that as the 86 has equal length headers.

    it's all personal preference and depends on what you want.

    Don't get me wrong once the prices fall a bit I may be seriously tempted, but right now I'm gonna sit on the GT and add some of my own improvements, may end up never selling it... I really can't see it right now.. My shopping list is wayyyyy too long lol

  9. I'm on 17x8 et34 and don't have any rubbing with 13mm spacers

    As for multi fit personally I don't like the look, but that's just me. I have a set of Wedssport rs5-ss which seem to be pretty rare in just 5x100

    Good to know mate, thankyou for the info! Is there plenty of clearance from the suspension strut?

    I understand what you're saying, I've never been a fan, but I am extremely tempted with these.

    Mine are multi hole but unsure if multi fit as the main holes for my studs are slightly bigger than rest

    And it does state 5x100 et35 on the rims

    Possibly weight saving? A great looking wheel none the less!!

  10. Good answers guys! Surprised to learn that Johnny's volks are multifit..

    Danny does make a valid point that I'd never thought of. The fitment is for 5x100 and 5x114 which I believe to be Subaru and Nissan fitment.

    I am definitely swayed I think, 5x100 is proving to be quite the rare fitment in the right sizes! I think a 17x8 wheel with ET35 should fit without rubbing as well which would be a bonus.

    Thanks guys!

  11. Just wondering what peoples thoughts are on multi fitment wheels? I've never really been a fan but a set of wheels has caught my eye that only come in multi fit so I'm quite tempted to overlook it.

    Does anyone else think it detracts from the look of the wheel? Or am I just being pedantic?

  12. Why skimp on such a critical service item? You only need to change it every 50000 miles so why not put the best in ;)

    I do agree with this, but a word to the wise would be if you feel like a clutch is due imminently don't put an expensive oil into the box... Tends to have to be dumped out again :(. That was my mistake. £60 worth of MT90 down the drain. Only did 3000 miles on it!!

    Still, Great oil!!! Haha

  13. It did feel like it had done more than 39k, pleased I had a drive though, gives me something to compare next time, I'm in no rush, my SR runs sweet, just fancy a change, I'll wait for the right car to come along, gonna try the 190/GT as well.

    Get yourself to the midlands meet at the end of the month, there'll be plenty of club cars to take a look at I think, including a few GTs like mine, should help you to weed out the good from the bad, all our boys and girls look after their cars!

    Link to the meet page - http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/170577-midlands-meet-22nd-february-1300-de72-2gl/

  14. 21 year old Motorsport electronics technician, technical support and currently training for race/performance data analyst role also.

    Bought my 2006 Celica GT in February when I was 20 with 52,000 miles on the clock. It's now on 59,000.

    Not sure if I'll ever sell up, loved the gen 7 ever since I was a little kid. Feels great to finally own one!

    • Like 1
  15. I bought some around 6months ago, still not had them fitted, other things have kept cropping up. I.e. other things were bought and I forgot about them! Only just found them in a cupboard with a bottle of brake fluid... looks like a job for the weekend!

    Bought mine from Stewart at freaky, Great guy and awesome service.

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