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Posts posted by daytona
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Hmmm it usually sits straight but it had an emergency oil change at Kwik Twit the other week so I will check it is on right later.
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polished and painted manifold re installed. up and running no issues Yay!!!!!
You will have to wait for photo!!!
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Does anyone have any links to a safe but bright set please? I have had no issue with mine maybe because they are never on for long but better safe than sorry!
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It's lazy mans polish Baz. Special compound for steel. Fit felt tipped applkcator to cordless drill bzzzzz on wax bar which melts a bit onto spplicator. bzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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You're welcome.
Gosh!
Quick response from BRD....... http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/messenger/328911/#comment-708392
I will let you know if he can do a group buy as I would swap to ward off future corrosion issues.
Anyway I have done enough admin at work whilst dipping in and out here.
I am off to play for the rest of the day.
TTFN
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I am told it's pretty simple but mechanical stuff not my bag. I have a friendly garage, for cash
Just PM'd Brooks Racing about their polywatsit gear linkages. Probably take a day or two for a reply tho................
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Here's the short shift
just looking for the polybush supplier and tripped over this, so seems they do still offer discount if you ask / know code.http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?/topic/179080-opie-oils-10-discount/
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Hmmmm. Notchy changes more usually linkage related, although the box itself is generally not a strong point. Never had a 5th to 4th problem. 2nd to 3rd maintaining lift is tricky though. Brass bushes on the gear linkage helped although if I was doing it now I would Polybush it as brass is a bit harsh, pus an ebay short shifter and a heavy knob. Depends on what feel you like but stock is a bit waffly generally.
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Forums say 2.3l.Buying in 1L units makes it expensive so buy a 5L tub and split it with a mate? Opie will confirm.
Not long at all, timewise! Drain, fill, done. All easily accessible.
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Oils, tyres everyone has the favourites. Hard to say which is better. I read the forums but they are mainly Americans disagreeing with each other! Millers and Fuchs both good quality. Like engine oil cleanliness is just as if not more important than brand. Needs less frequent changing as it is in a sealed unit unaffected by combustion. Under normal driving 30/60k seem the usual recommendations. Did mine at 60 and will do again at 100. Probably.
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For normal road use http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuchs-TITAN-Gear-Syn-75W-90-Semi-Synthetic-Driveline-Oil-75W90-4-Litres-4L-/181244232356?hash=item2a32ff82a4:g:wKwAAOSw7ThUfuGk
This is from Opie oils. Any questions just pop them an email. They know their stuff and their service is tops too. They have good sales as well! and I think a ccuk discount, although a while since I last used them as I bought a double lot in one of their sales
Here is another link. Click on it and there is another link to click on to ask them your question.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-962-semi-synthetic.aspx
Just seen Dublet's post. Snap!
API is American Petroleum Institute ( I think) grading system. The Millers and Fuchs semi snth links on this thread are both GL4/5
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You haven't mentioned it so I presume the pressures have stayed even? If there is a small valve leak or something meaning that it has been at a lower pressure that may account for it. Otherwise if it has been through a Hunter alignment is it most likely a worn steering / suspension component or a duff tyre as GL says.
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1 hour ago, G.Lewarne said:
YES! YYYYEEEESSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111111111oneone
I just fixed my super-annoying boot area popping noise. Has been doing my head in for months!
Finally got someone in the back listening, and we identified that my high level brake light was the cause. Unbolted it, bit of self adhesive velco underneath, bolted back up, ziptied its cable a bit more taught......BOOM NOISE GONE
Out of all the work ive done to my car, that has made me the happiest, LOL
Oh how we all differ!!! I have an intermittent tyre squeak from the spare in the boot. All that I need to do is empty all of the crap out of the boot, lift to the carpet, reposition the wheel and tighten it down properly. The last person to put the spare back didn't fit it properly. The odd squeak or rattle doesn't faze me, so it's been like that for a year or more and 9/10 trips are only a couple of miles. If it is in squeaky mood I open the window, open the moon roof, turn up the stereo or the Invidia or a combination thereof, whichever is likely to make me smile most. So there you have it............To me an irritating squeak equals have more fun!
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3 minutes ago, celica1977 said:
need to change your battery stay
Yeah I bought one the wrong size if you recall. Probably pick one up at castle coombe then fit the lotus cover, pop in the rivets and collars I have had for 2 years. Can't rush these things Baz!
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2 minutes ago, G.Lewarne said:
Replaced both rear trailing arms, hub carriers, suspension bolts, ARB + brackets just to fix one snapped and one seized toe bolt. fun fun fun!
Your car is beginning to remind me of Triggers brush from Fools & Horses Gavin!
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in a nutshell .......yes.
outside a nutshell.............
Since lowering a car changes the spring rate and height of the car, lowering springs are categorised according to the spring rate, which is the amount of force or load it takes to compress a spring a certain distance. The higher the spring rate, the stiffer the spring is.
The two main types of lowering springs are the progressive rate springs and the linear rate springs. With progressive rate springs, the top and bottom coils have a bigger gap than the coils in the middle of the spring. The spring rate varies depending on the distance travelled, with the spring getting stiffer the more it is used, thus creating a comfortable ride. Progressive rate springs cost a lot more than linear rate springs; they are ideal for drivers who want buckets of aesthetic appeal and a smoother ride. Linear, standard, or specific rate springs have coils that are evenly spaced apart. There is no change to the spring rate no matter the distance one travels, thus the ride can get bumpy. Linear rate springs are less expensive than the progressive rate ones, and are for cars whose drivers prefer a better-quality lowering of the car and performance over looks.
going off topic chaps There's another thread on newbies...................going there,.
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YAAAAY!
I did laugh and I saw your last post, they flash up on my screen as emails when I'm at work. Out of the corner of my eye I just picked up two words, AKUMA and struts.
For some reason I had an instant vision of you doing a Mick Jagger impression and very fine it was toO.
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Please do or we will have to wait until ACE café meet at this rate!
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My MOT man unlikely to fail BB due to noisy Invidia N1.......
He fitted it
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On 19/02/2017 at 06:52, dean68 said:
Havnt seen since being more people see my 140 on my drive. But i have only managed to give it a wash today. So it will get a little vlean at thsoe eastmids chance aswell. Hopefully. . Keeping nice comments to keep going.
What really that tho is ive had mine for over 6 yrs. But my familly still really realise that so many celicas, are where thtey like đry near close to
Themselves. .
sorry my problems are harder to answer quedtions . I try to say people have more seen celicas since . All my nurses and doc. Still like my car even tho its not been cleaned even my funeral director.
Hope i get a few months to enjoy some more comments. . Hopefully
Not makingsence sorry guys.
I didn't when I was on morphine either Dean. Don't worry about it
& To save Kev the time typing................ "You don't need morphine to talk drivel Daytona"
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I have a pic of BB next to his 4. Does that count?
what have you done to your celica today...
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Was your old one shot or are you saying this is better than stock & if so how please?