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daytona

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Posts posted by daytona

  1. On ‎14‎/‎07‎/‎2017 at 23:07, G.Lewarne said:

    Fitted a brand new OEM grade Denso manufactured MAF sensor - holy ccuk does it 'alf fly now !!

     

    I got it at an exceedingly good price and have negotiated a deal with the local official supplier.  look for a group buy offer soon

     

    Was your old one shot or are you saying this is better than stock & if so how please?

  2. Hmmmm. Notchy changes more usually linkage related, although the box itself is generally not a strong point. Never had a 5th to 4th problem. 2nd to 3rd maintaining lift is tricky though. Brass bushes on the gear linkage helped although if I was doing it now I would Polybush it as brass is a bit harsh, pus an ebay short shifter and a heavy knob. Depends on what feel you like but stock is a bit waffly generally.

    • Like 1
  3. Oils, tyres everyone has the favourites. Hard to say which is better. I read the forums but they are mainly Americans disagreeing with each other! Millers and Fuchs both good quality. Like engine oil cleanliness is just as if not more important than brand. Needs less frequent changing as it is in a sealed unit unaffected by combustion. Under normal driving 30/60k seem the usual recommendations. Did mine at 60 and will do again at 100. Probably.

    • Like 1
  4. For normal road use http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Fuchs-TITAN-Gear-Syn-75W-90-Semi-Synthetic-Driveline-Oil-75W90-4-Litres-4L-/181244232356?hash=item2a32ff82a4:g:wKwAAOSw7ThUfuGk

     

    This is from Opie oils. Any questions just pop them an email. They know their stuff and their service is tops too. They have good sales as well! and I think a ccuk discount, although a while since I last used them as I bought a double lot in one of their sales :D

    Here is another link. Click on it and there is another link to click on to ask them your question.

    http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-962-semi-synthetic.aspx

     

    Just seen Dublet's post. Snap!

    API is American Petroleum Institute ( I think) grading system. The Millers and Fuchs semi snth links on this thread are both GL4/5

     

     

    • Like 1
  5. 1 hour ago, G.Lewarne said:

    YES!  YYYYEEEESSSSSS!!!!!!!!!!!!!1111111111oneone

     

    I just fixed my super-annoying boot area popping noise.  Has been doing my head in for months!

     

    Finally got someone in the back listening, and we identified that my high level brake light was the cause.  Unbolted it, bit of self adhesive velco underneath, bolted back up, ziptied its cable a bit more taught......BOOM NOISE GONE

     

     

    Out of all the work ive done to my car, that has made me the happiest, LOL

    Oh how we all differ!!! I have an intermittent tyre squeak from the spare in the boot. All that I need to do is empty all of the crap out of the boot, lift to the carpet, reposition the wheel and tighten it down properly. The last person to put the spare back didn't fit it properly. The odd  squeak or rattle doesn't faze me, so it's been like that for a year or more and 9/10 trips are only a couple of miles. If it is in squeaky mood I open the window, open the moon roof, turn up the stereo or the Invidia or a combination thereof, whichever is likely to make me smile most. So there you have it............To me an irritating squeak equals have more fun! :lol:

    • Like 1
  6. in a nutshell .......yes.

    outside a nutshell.............

    Since lowering a car changes the spring rate and height of the car, lowering springs are categorised according to the spring rate, which is the amount of force or load it takes to compress a spring a certain distance. The higher the spring rate, the stiffer the spring is.

    The two main types of lowering springs are the progressive rate springs and the linear rate springs. With progressive rate springs, the top and bottom coils have a bigger gap than the coils in the middle of the spring. The spring rate varies depending on the distance travelled, with the spring getting stiffer the more it is used, thus creating a comfortable ride. Progressive rate springs cost a lot more than linear rate springs; they are ideal for drivers who want buckets of aesthetic appeal and a smoother ride. Linear, standard, or specific rate springs have coils that are evenly spaced apart. There is no change to the spring rate no matter the distance one travels, thus the ride can get bumpy. Linear rate springs are less expensive than the progressive rate ones, and are for cars whose drivers prefer a better-quality lowering of the car and performance over looks.

     

    going off topic chaps  There's another thread on newbies...................going there,.

    • Like 1
  7. On ‎19‎/‎02‎/‎2017 at 06:52, dean68 said:

    Havnt seen since being more people see my 140 on my drive. But i have only managed to give it a wash today. So it will get a little vlean at thsoe eastmids chance aswell. Hopefully. . Keeping nice comments to keep going. 

    What really that tho is ive had mine for over 6 yrs. But my familly still really realise that so many celicas, are where thtey like đry near close to

     Themselves. .

    sorry my problems are harder to answer quedtions . I try to say people have more seen celicas since . All my nurses and doc. Still like my car even tho its not been cleaned even my funeral director. 

    Hope i get a few months to enjoy some more comments. . Hopefully

     

     

    Not makingsence sorry guys. 

    I didn't when I was on morphine either Dean. Don't worry about it

    & To save Kev the time typing................ "You don't need morphine to talk drivel Daytona"

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