stevenc1603
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Posts posted by stevenc1603
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I foam mine, then use a wash brush to loosen all the crap then jet wash it off. Then again, I'm not overly fussed about the paintwork on mine as its a Mondeo. If it was a good car then I would foam and use a wash mitt then rinse off.
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Hoses from transmission?
Are you talking about the 2 water hoses to the radiator, or are you looking at a gearbox oil cooler? I'm not too clued up on the Gen 5, but I would have thought that the were completely separate.
With the water hoses you want to drop all the old coolant and give the system a good flush out before you fit your new radiator. Make sure you add new anti-freeze though.
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I bought snow foam for using when I had a large transit to keep clean. This is where I got mine from:
http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/washing-and-drying/super-snow-foam-5-litre/prod_370.html
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You cannot tax a vehicle that doesn't have valid insurance. End of unfortunately. I would say, make sure the vehicle is off the road, get your tax sorted then insure it.
To take a car to MOT on the road you will need valid tax and minimum of third party insurance. Not sure if that applies to you but someone suggested you don't need the tax which is incorrect unless you are trailering the vehicle to the test station.
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Legally you cannot drive the car on a public road with no insurance. Of course you are free to join the many that do, but morally I hope you won't.
To charge the battery either leave it running for a good long time, or see if you can swap it into your other car.
The rust on the brake discs will probably clean up with use. If you need to MOT it then you can drive it to the test station (if you have booked a time for it) which might be enough to clean it up. You would still require insurance for it though.
Remember if the vehicle is now taxed then it must have insurance also. You can only not insure the vehicle if it's been SORN'd
Hope that helps.
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Unplugged would be no different to it showing low pressure.
Can you check, do you have red and yellow oil can lights, or just one. You should be able to see if you have both when you switch on the ignition.
The level sensors are known to be temperamental and can cause issues like showing a fault when there isn't one.
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Yellow oil can I would expect is oil level. Normally pressure is a red one.
Pressure switch is screwed into the right hand side of the cylinder head near to the front.
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Technically I'm in Scotland, but I don't have a Celica at the moment!
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29mpg is reasonable for a GT4. I used to get that in mine almost all of the time, although I was running vpower exclusively. All depends on your driving style at the end of the day.
If you change your driving style over the 2 tanks then you comparing fuels is almost impossible.
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When I did a trip to Italy I also took a spare set of belts just in case, but you should be fine as the Celica is generally bomb proof.
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Check the gear linkage cables have not been damaged while they were in there. The centre of each one a rubber bush and they do wear with age.
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Now this might sound strange, but this was how I managed to drain about 25ltrs of petrol from the old Gen6 I had when it had been smashed and was getting taken away by the insurance from my drive.
Going in under the back seat I located the connection plate where the feed and return lines are.
I removed the return line from the tank and connected a bit of pipeline I had laying about, securing it with a jubilee clip.
Now, sucking on the pipe produced sweet FA, but I found that by blowing into the pipe, thereby pressurising the tank, when I stopped blowing the fuel would then flow back out the pipe and into the canister I was catching it in.
Don't get me wrong, this took a while, but it got there in the end.
I think the other method of using the jumper wire and turning on the ignition would be easier, although getting the line off the filter can be a bitch.
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The original face for a Jap import has only KMH markings on it and goes up to 180. There are no MPH markings at all.
If you have both now then someone has previously tried to convert the speedo just with a replacement face so in adding a converter chip you have effectively double converted the system so it will read incorrectly.
You'll need to convert the face back to an original KMH one for it to work.
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Yup, the guide linked was done by me donkeys ago.
You need to locate the correct wire in the loom, cut it and join the remaining wire on your chip to the cut end of the loom. This effectively re-routes the signal from the gearbox sender to the chip instead of the speedo.
Just make sure you get your wires in the right places as otherwise it can blow the chip.
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It does use the same signal, but it all depends on how accurate the speedo reading is. As the face has been changed, there's a chance that the needle hasn't been put back on properly and its mis-reading across the range. Or it could just be its mis-reading more and more by the time it gets to that speed.
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As its a jap import if its been converted from KMH to MPH by having the face changed then its still limited.
This means you still have the limiter and the odometer will be clocking in KM's instead of miles.
To sort both you need to convert it using a chip.
The downside is you'll need to change the face back to the original one otherwise it will read incorrectly.
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Is the interior light also coming on?
If its not then there could be a fault with the integration relay which runs all these things, or it could be a short in the wiring somewhere.
If it is then I'd be looking at a faulty sensor on either of the doors or the boot lid.
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I've used one of those cheapy polishers as I was given it for Christmas one year. Used it once, never again as it was crap. So much vibration you end up with white finger after a while, thankfully not permanent.
I have a porter cable dual action one that is the dogs danglies. Yes they are expensive, but they are worth it.
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at a guess I would say on an engine dyno with the engine not in the car.
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0 or 1 gauge I would have though.
As others have said, make sure you put a chunky fuse right next to the battery so that most of a cable is fused should something cause it to rub through the insulation.
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I've had an Argos trolley jack for over 10 years and its still going strong.
Axel stands I got them from Halfords. Think they are 3 ton rated and are well chunky.
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It wouldn't count up the miles.
However I am sure I have read somewhere that you shouldn't run the car with the cluster removed. I have no idea why, aside from the legal point of not having a working speedo, but I'm positive I have read it somewhere.
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1a. Yes. Whatever it takes to get most of the water out of the system. You'll not get it completely empty as their are parts of the engine below the lowest outlet so you'll not get them empty.
1b. Stick a hose in. Personally I would advise that you remove the thermostat. Usually fairly easy on most Celica engines. I would flush the rad separately by taking the top hose off and flushing the rad from there. You can then flush the engine by sticking the hose in the radiator top hose (attached to engine) and running it through until it runs clear. Make sure the heater is set to the hottest setting so that the valve to the heat exchanged is fully open.(Means you flush the heater circuit at the same time).
3. Fairly sure you will have an expansion(overflow) tank. Look at the radiator cap. Do you see a small tube leading to a plastic tank? That will have lid that you can take off (with this small tube) Cover this with the cloth. You might also want to take that off and rinse it out before you do the refill as it might have some crap in it.
4. Fast idle is about 1500 RPM.
6. That'll be a pain in the ass. I'd just let the engine cool completely (probably about 4 hours) then use cold water.
7. Just start the engine and let it run at idle.
Hope that helps.
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Place I use has a very similar system, although the sensors are mounted on separate posts at the front, not on a large cross member.
Each wheel gets a pad hung on it with a fancy pattern on it that the lasers read and use to work out what's pointing where.
Computer screen shows each wheel in real time and updates as the mechanics adjust it etc.
I think mine was about £40 last time I had it done.
S
When Parking - Handbrake or Gears or Both
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
I always used to do both until my last celica which had a turbo timer so I had to leave it in neutral. Still continue with that now as I'm in that habit.