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kyle_winterburn

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Posts posted by kyle_winterburn

  1. cant remember but its 118mph, similar in australia too. I found this out driving my sisters evo 9 and couldn't get the thing above 180kph (roughly 118mph) that was still being bad though considering australian speed limit is 100kph :sofa: but an evo 9 is good for a lot more than 118mph

    Pretty sure jap speed limit is officially 112mph (180kph) some may go a little over then drop down again but that is the official number.

    I thought mine already had uk clocks ad it reads mph but stops at 120 buy it counts up in km how expensive is a new set of clocks and I think he drove it ok we started with about 2 to 3 car lengths between us and then 3 to 4 car lengths when I hit my top speed altho I hit everygear bang on for the first time in a very long time.

    Sounds like some 1 has replaced the speedo facia. Never know why people do this as like sed above replacing the clocks for uk ones or fitting a kph - mph converter off eBay is easier. And removes the limiter ;)

  2. I have only just seens this. I had this same problem in the later part of last year! I got pulled over as i entered works car park!! they requested that i do the db test to which i politly refused on the grounds that driving within the confinements of the city at no point would my vehicle be at 3/4 revs....which shut him up! :lol: Also stating the fact that putting my car under the intense strain of 3/4 revs at idle is rediculous and if anything were to go wrong would the devon and cornwall 'cuntstablery' foot the repair bills...again no answer was given. (copper getting slightly pissed by this point and the whole workshop now an audience) they tried to grab the keys to which i resisted and locked myslef in the car! :lol: i drove it into the valeting bay and the valeters closed the bay doors. when i went back outside they ARRESTED ME for non compliance and resisting arrest.......................3 months later attended a court hearing!

    This made me laugh :lol:

  3. It's just not worth the risk IMO, even if you have winter tyres on your own car, it only takes one idiot who hasn't to crash into your car, and since most of our cars on getting on these days (Gen 6 and older) most would end up getting written off for minor damage)

    This

    In the snow we had the other year I was in a q of traffic when the driver two cars in front panicked coming up to a corner. Causing the driver in front of me to do a emergency stop. Causing me to stop...just. As I came to a stop looked in my rear view mirror to see a golf gti about to rear end me.

    Luckily for some reason I left my old gt4 at home that day and was in my old mondeo.

  4. As above long bolt can be a pain

    Was 2 - half days not two and a half lol

    But I had use of air tool and a 15 tonne Hydraulic press so makes life easier. Doable without tho.

    Decent set of tools, more specialist stuff required will be a torque wrench, axel stands, poss drill and one handed hacksaw ( my pref but other methods can be used) wd40 a must, some m10 stud bar nuts and washers are handy( will explain later) I also needed to replace one of the bolts on the bottom if the rear hub which goes through the trailing arm as needed to be cut. And some paint while u got it to bits.

    That all I can think of the the min , may of missed something.

    Right tricks to removed without aid of a press

    This is the method I find easiest others may disagree or prefer another. This is the chain drill method. U drill round the rubber part of the bush as far out as possible and as close to each other as possible as many times as possible. U then simply knock the middle of the bush out , the with ur hacksaw cut carefully thought the metal outer sleeve then use a small flat screw driver to prise up one end and out.

    Tricks to refitting without a press this is where the stud bar comes in handy , pics tell a 1000 word lol

    IMG_0184.jpg

    IMG_0185.jpg

    IMG_0186.jpg

    have used a hammer and wd40 with good effect everytime

    Yes big hammer wd40 works well lol the clean up and refit with lots of copper slip :)

  5. Blimey... the ballasts work okay? :(

    Yup ballast work fine I just wanted to change from 8k to 6k to be a lil less blue lol. Anyways their response to my email was

    "A&E TRADING LTD

    Unit 25

    111 Whitby Road

    Slough

    Berkshire

    SL1 3DR

    Please leave a note for your ebay ID, address and reason of return." No quibbles so guess may not be the 1st faulty set. Funny how not even an offer to replace? But will just buy else where

  6. I'm surprised this has happened on a 6 as they are glass lenses, I've seen it done on 7's before and other more modern cars with plastic lense covers.

    Are you sure it is not on the inside of the lense where there can be a condensation build up and then you can get a very fine mould build up.

    Ah I see u have me mistaken Tis not on my 6 Tis on my other car. I just new the 7 boys had similar probs so thought I would ask here.

  7. 168bhp I think mind should of been 1st dyno was 176.5bhp. K&n panel filter powerflow cat back.

    Now with this its 186.3bhp but as above I removed the resonator box.

    See my thread in g6

    Hmm that's some good gains there. Was it the same dyno? What % are the adding for trans loss do uknow? Or do u have wheel bhp figs for both runs as well?

  8. I will take the time one day in the new year and work out the best set up. I did do one other mod and the was removing the resonator box from in the wing. IV been reading that this drops torque.

    The car feels so much more lively and revs more freely pulls so much more from around 5400k peak power is now @7100ish.

    Hi did u do a dyno before fitting then? Or was ur increase based on standard out put ? Also wot other mod do u have?

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