sh3p
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Posts posted by sh3p
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Usually use loctite 270 high strength threadlock
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Do a search for energy suspension in the states ..they do a front and rear kit for the gen7 ..is very reasonably priced and shipping isn't too bad (especially if you can get a group buy together) I did mine all round and was impressed with themI have a tin of David's Zinc 182, it's all ready for action but haven't used it yet....
Was going to use it on the rear sub-frame, but after finding the preparation too time consuming and fiddly using my humble little drill and rotary wire brush, we had a change of plan.
The donor sub-frame has been taken apart and the smaller parts sand-blasted, primed, painted and bake hardened. The main centre part was too big to fit in the blaster, or the oven, so was [laboriously] striped using an industrial rotary wire brush to remove surface rust and what was left of the original paint. It's been painted with a primer but i don't know what the product is - will find out and report back soon [with photos].
Another issue is the option of whether to poly-bush or not.
The original bushes on my donor sub-frame look fine so we plan to re-use them.
However, i'm like what i read about the specifications of the SuperPro polybushes, shame they don't do them for the Gen7 rear sub-frame [...yet?]
Debs
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I honestly don't think we get enough real bad weather to warrrant winter tyres.
you should be able to drive safely enough on your normal all weather tyres , after all you should drive to the conditions of the road.......so if its wet and slidy then you should drive slower and smoother.
This ^^^^ so long as you don't have cheap nasty rubber tbat can let go with no warning,anything with decent reviews should be good so long as you drive to the conditions
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Hmm how did I not get involved with this who has the loudest exhaust...think I may have been in with a shout at the anti-social neighbour waking award
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Should pass a if it's standard. ...there is a maximum height for them ...you could always check if they are too high...and put in a complaint or claim. .
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just back off the adjusting cog through the hole in the front as you have already done,remove the disc and it will look become alot clearer what has been described, if your still unsure just put the disc back on and adjust.
the shoes shouldn't need replacing they last years and usually break up due to age not wear if at all,as they don't stop the car while its moving just hold it in place so,should be no wear unless its been driven with the handbrake on.
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If they move when your wheels on I would be worried your wheel is not seating correctly and not tight enough...disc should not move unless it's specifically a floating disc design .
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plans for the 190 are to try to sell whats left to sell , plans for the rex are engine pulled again,power steering delete,abs delete, wire tuck, & v mount intercooler/radiator set up & of for another remap
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as has been said peaks & troughs so stick with it
after spending 3.5k have work done to my RX7 only to find that on the drive home it was virtually undriveable due to a bad Map(not my fault),wrong turbo (my fault) & a clutch like a switch i could have happily driven it straight into a skip had there been one available with a ramp,i even hated the seats by the time i had got home & only drove her 3 times in 3weeks.But after changing the clutch back to OEM & a little tinkering map wise she became easier to live with & so spent the time & effort to get her right & now love it everytime i get in her
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Glad iv seen this as they were going to be next buy ready for springs being fitted. .uuum now what to buy to replace them ?
don't need to remove the rears to remove the rear shocks...so unless your changing for the sake of it or there is a problem with yours you only need the fronts & only then if your unable to remove them complete.
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figured it would be but you never know where peeps plan on travelling in the near future:)
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will happily do it for you if your prepared for a 100+ mile drive? post code dn333bd would have to be on 1 of my 4 days off as i work a 4 on 4 off 12hr 6-6 days/nights
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blue loctite is a medium strength i would/do use red for stuff that i really don't want to come loose without applying some heat first, bearing in mind the hubs will become warm in periods of heavy braking...
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well flattened threads are never good, if the studs are stronger than the alloy (which they will be) they will have damaged the threads in the spacer ( by how much & whether its a big deal 1 time is debatable) what strength threadlock did you use? & have you used a stronger one this time? for the moment i wouldn't be too concerned but would make plans to change something be it the threadlock or the studs when the wheels have to come off again.
just a thought why where the nuts so tight on the stud once they had come out of the spacer? they should be pretty loose with no pressure on them, you didn't get any loctite on the threads where the nuts went did you?
when fitting the studs to the hubs use the 2 nuts method, tightened 2 nuts together on the stud then tighten the stud into the hub with the outer nut, sorry if am preaching to the choir
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not really any harder but not all places are set up to do stainless,i recently repacked a mid box & re welding was a PITA as the box itself was not 1 thick sheet but a thin sheet wrapped round twice then spot welded as yours seems to be,this gave a void between the sheets so made it tricky to tig weld it
,got it done just not pretty is also facing upwards & in the middle of the car so wasn't too worried.
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as Paul has said its a cut & pack then re-weld job as the pipe itself isn't bunged up, just the box the pipe runs through ( the pipe has lots of holes in it in the box)
& you fill the void between pipe & the outer skin of the box..
you have PM
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just repacked the mid box on the Rex..i used
Ceramic Fibre Blanket 25mm- Ceramic Insulationhave quite a bit left over if you want to give it ago ?
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Have underlay & roof flashing on the floor pans & roof flashing inside the door skins, rear arches & boot definitely made a difference.
The roof flashing works by adding weight so reducing vibration that resonates causing more road noise rather than blocking exhaust noise.
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That looks AMAZING! Absolutely outstanding!
Ty but the credit goes to Mondo i just had to decide colour & that was a no brainer even for me...hehe
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well as has been said you very much get what you pay for & unless it was "mates rates" i wouldn't expect much change from £2k for a decent spay job never mind fitting a full body kit, so how you honestly expect a good job for sub £1k for fitting & respray without a mate in the trade doing you a favour is unrealistic at best.Sry if that comes across harsh but its very rare you get a decent job done bodywork wise cheap
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yup also alcantara/leather for the reasons already given, not cold in winter or slippery when playing also love my seats
great work from Mondo as usual
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i feel i get better performance for very little difference in mpg using v power in the 190 (placebo ? quite possibly ) although been a while since i used it, but i also get lower knock figures in the Rx7 with the v power compared to tesco momentum although not significant enough to not use it if can't get to the shell garage.
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as peeps have said insurance could be an issue but depends on who you are with as some will mirror your no claims on a second car,Adrian flux have done this as i run a weekend "toy" with a limited mileage policy & my 190 as my daily now is less than £500 for each with mods declared
I believe Neil (I think) at Green Light do similar & possibly Sky insurance.
High strength threadlock - where to buy?
in Consumable Parts
Posted · Edited by sh3p
As Jim said a small 10ml should be enough..you only need a small amount no need to coat the threads,if you think about how little space there is between the stud and the threaded hole,it soon spreads over enough thread