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Auto-boy

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Posts posted by Auto-boy

  1. As mentioned previously etch primer is a waste of time on plastic. One thing to consider is that when painting over filler, it has a different surface to the surrounding plastic so despite still being able to see the GT4 words in the raiser block it could just be where the paint changes colour?

    Body filler has a nasty habit so shrinking anyway, you should use a putty glaze over the filler to help remove minor imperfections and hide any shrinkage, let it dry for a good few hours before doing any further prep, leaving it overnight helps. Once the filler is dry I try to leave it for at least a week before I start sanding it down, the it's just a case of high build primer, leave it to dry, rub it down, more high build primer........it took me about ten coats of high build primer to get things looking right on the front bumper.

    Try to avoid anything marked as easy sand.

    Also again as mentioned, use a sanding block, I use a thing from B&Q made for sanding ceilings, it's basically a long sanding block with a clamp at each end to hold the sand paper down. I find that electrical sanding devices can be a bit harsh for thins like this and it's too easy to go too far with them, just a it bucket of water and a lot of wet n dry. Although maybe use an orbital sander on the first couple of coats to make life easier and quicker...then go onto doing it by hand.

    You can try heating it in the oven between coats, on a very low heat for a few mins can help, just don't melt the blocks :)

    As for the cracked spats, get yourself to Maplins, find the glue section and purchase some plastic weld, I think bondloc do it? You could also use it to fill the GT4 letters on the raiser blocks, drill a series of holes each side of the crack, small ones only a couple of mm, then get some alloy wire mesh, halfords sell it for about three quid in a4 sized pieces. Use that on the back of the crack, then using small zip ties to nit the two halves of the crack together along with the plastic weld glue making sure the glue finds it's way into the drilled holes, behind the zip ties and into the mesh, let it dry overnight.....for two days is best, then use more of the plastic weld to fill the front of the crack, again leave it overnight, it should be more than strong enough, sand off the front of the zip ties leaving the backs in place......make sure the connection of the zip tie is on the front so when you sant it away the back is as smooth and flat as possible....look on my project thread for pictures on how I did it. Then sand it down and use filler as normal.

    If you are more patient, go on amazon, look for this stuff

    http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B009EU5ZMK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1#productDetails

    It is excellent, very strong, dries rock hard so it can be sanded.

    Absolutely fantastic advice this! :thumbs:

  2. How are you sanding it down? Are you using an orbital sander which is always best? If not, and you are sanding by hand, always use a sanding block or else your fingers will influence the finish. (you probably already know all that).

    I've painted a lot of cars over the years, and each car is different from the last car. Part of the problem here is that the filler has very different properties to the fiberglass and so you will often see the imperfections when you paint it due to the different surfaces etc. I would fill the logo's with fiberglass because then you are sticking to the same materials. If you want to go extreme, cut the GT4 logo out, fill the gap with fibreglass and mesh and flatten if off.

    If you wrap them, the logo may still show through as wrap is extremely thin. I wrapped a mini a few months ago and I couldn't believe that all the shopping trolley dings still showed through the wrap. :o

  3. This looks like a really good alternative to the usual wrap. I paid £600 to have a mini wrapped a few weeks ago, wish I had known about this concept.

    I have another car I want to wrap though, think I might give this permiwrap a go :twisted:

  4. I don't mean to sound rude or anything, perhaps I am just a bit nieve when it comes to convertable's, but do they really differ enough to warrant a dedicated forum section?

    Apart from the lid, what's the difference, many other celica's have leather interiors. Essentially, the vert is a GT, and apart from the back lights, they are very much the same. It's understandable with the GT4's as they have a turbo, different engine parts, drive train, 4x4, body work, costings and lots of other subjects.

    Just my 2pc.

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