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J03

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Posts posted by J03

  1. I have a theory that cars in the UK suffer more corrosion on the right hand side due to surface water puddles in gutters which can stretch out onto left hand side of the road, and when driven though the splashing [on what is often only the passenger side wheels] washes the salt back off of the left hand side of the vehicle.

    My Corolla was more rusty on drivers side, and my present Celica too plus rear right hand side spring rusted though and broke at 11 years, and 51k miles.

    Sound theory. When stripping down the MR2 it was terrible on the driver's side compared to the passenger, did make me wonder.

  2. Thanks for the replies guys. If I went with 4 8.5J wheels would that be better? I really don't want to mess up the handling & I certainly don't want to roll the arches.

    8.5J ET25 would still require some arch work unless you ran a decent stretch on the tyres & some extra camber. Your best bet would be something with an ET35 offset, ET30 possibly, to avoid arch rolling/extreme tyre stretch.

    Anything above 7J is going to start compromising handling, unless you have the car setup to account for it.

  3. "On my last MOT, the guy did say the rear brakes barely passed the requirements"

    Probably the best place to start bud :)

    I've had 2 sorts of clunking & thudding over the last 6 months - first up, the rear calipers were fubar & made an horrendous noise until I replaced everything. Second, in the process fitting said replacements, I threw on a Whiteline rear ARB & new droplinks. Again, an horrific clunking sound developed a week later which turned out to be a droplink nut that just simply needed nipping up.

    Worth noting, that in both instances it sounded like the chassis was falling to pieces & "felt" like it was coming from the front :rolleyes:

  4. Yes sorry, I shouldn't say it's better full stop. The Vpower stuff usually shows the same figure, but on occasional blasting I have seen it nudge low 30's. The Momentum hit 28 & didn't budge. Knock is all that matters to me.

    In comparison, with the Texaco 97 it took very little right foot action & the readout was all over the place. 42 only revving to 5k & the day I hit 69 I hadn't even pushed past 6k revs. It was only the stock knock sensor flashing that made me shit it & back off.

    If I drive the car like a vicar, then the 97 does fine, but any hint of having a bit of fun & it's actually scary.

    • Like 1
  5. True! But £300 vs £3. That's what the question is!

    And the answer is, one option looks like 300 nicka worth of seats, the other, 3 quid's worth of pen work :lol:

    I looked at the same technique when I had t-sport seats in all fairness, but once you see GT seats in the flesh, there's no substitute. Aside from the Alcantara centres / red stitch, the outer leather is a different shade to the t-sport & matches the facelift plastics much better.

    The t-sport seats also tend to sag & develop that god awful pleating/arse creasing to them, whereas the alc centres hold their shape & give a higher quality look. No sliding around through hard corners either.

    • Like 1
  6. Aye, it's all about the knock. The difference I've seen on the Apexi readout, between vpower & texaco premium is ridiculous. On vpower the knock level never goes above 27 when pushing, but on Texaco shite it doesn't take much at all to get her into the mid 40's. I'll have to test other fuels see what the craic is.

    • Like 1
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