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Alan Clogwyn

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Posts posted by Alan Clogwyn

  1. Grey Celica on day of purchase: (after removal of tints and a much needed wash though)

    Celica001.jpg

    And in final form...

    Rhys009.jpg

    The Brown one...

    Celica004-2.jpg

    Celicas-1.jpg

    (I know no different hardly, all the mods I made were mostly hidden)

    Civic...

    Day of purchase...

    macro001.jpg

    Now:

    P1070242s43.jpg

    And finally with the current correct bumper and broken splitter:

    P1080729.jpg

  2. use copper grease mate

    NO!

    Use Red Rubber (lithium Glycol) Grease, you have no way of knowing what the formulation of any other grease is and whether it'll kill the rubber.

    If you don'thave any then clean brake fluid will do for the piston seals. Under no circumstances use any other kind of oil or grease on pistons themselves, whilst a split boot is not ideal the sliders aren't anywehre near as important as the pistons.

  3. It takes great skill to match paint, especially if metallic. Rmember each mix requires x quantity of this and y quantity of that, what happens if a little bit of x or y gets stuck in the rim of the tin, or proprotionally more x than y gets stuck or drips? Yes you get a very very slight variation. Not to mention the paint being matched has had a few years of sunlight, causing it to change, plus then theres the actual spraying technique. This is no issue with flat colours, but on metallics is critical to getting a match. Unless the pain is sprayed in the exact same manner as the original then the 'grain' of the paint (the mica flecks) will not match the same pattern for density or direction and will make the paint look different, regardless of whether the colour is spot on.

    On a dull day in the rain you'd never know my car is 3 different shades, but in certain angles of sun it's glaringly obvious.

  4. Have you not thought it might all be in your head. I tend to buy the cheap tyres or gets sets of 2nd hand wheels with tyres. I just don't get these grip problems people keep coming up with.

    Tyre choice is THE most important thing you can do to look after your car and more importantly yourself inside and others around you. Forget your brakes, your suspension or your steering, none of these work without DECENT rubber between them and the road.

    Why oh why did Yokohama stop the A086? that was a brilliant tyre wet or dry.

    I'm running Falken ZE912s, good allrounder, I'd swear that they actually grip better on a slightly damp road than dry though, maybe they don't like dust. When did I fit them, Easter? can't remember but I've never had any major complants with them, a little ABS action on wet emergency braking and a couple of instances of minor wheelspin again on wet roads, they have quite soft sidewalls so you feels like you're getting a bit more understeer when in reality the tyre's just shifting it's not actually come unstuck yet. Wouldn't say they werre the ultimate tyre but they're certainly consistent all round.

  5. My local bodyshop guy used to apply primer with a roller.

    His jobs came out fine.

    Always wondered if this could be done.

    Would a roller not go through much more paint?

    if it's going over filled holes and dinks then yes it'll be fine as you'll get a thicker coat on, which you'd then have to sand most of it off again in order to smooth it flat.

    I can get a perfectly smooth finish with a brush, but it's still not as perfect as sprayed though, and never will be. The amount of effort required to achieve it is also far greater - paint has to be the percect consistency, brush has to be the right material and new, then the weather has to be just right...

    I'd suggest if you already have mint paintwork as described, leave it the hell alone, when it comes to selling your car again, No one with half a brain cell will look at ypur brush and roller paint job and hand over any money for it.

  6. On a budget I can certainly reccomend ZE912s. Very good all round tyre, nice cornering grip in the wet but traction and braking isn't class leading but adequate. Quite soft sidewalls, on my Civic wth it's high tyre profile you can really feel them keeling over on hard cornering, never let go though.

  7. I'd imagine because you might of turned the car off but not put handbrake on and toyota dont want you to have a flat face?

    I would, in an off topic but related kinda way, like to know how you can increase the rate at which the belt retracts once you've taken it off? As many older cars seem to lose it and you have to deal with mega seatbelt flop and handfeed it back into the slot

    You can't, the clockspring inside is basically worn out, you'd have to re forge it and trust me fiddling with one of them is no fun at all.

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