Bek8111
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Posts posted by Bek8111
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Was wondering how to clean racing windows..... something that wont fog them up or make them melt when sunlight hits em....
any ideas peeps?
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You argue like a priest
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One celica at motor show with possibly fit japanese girl next to it... When the man at the stand was asked are YOU the owner... he said yes.....
think that covers everything... you celica, fit japanese girl on or next to....... :rolleyes:
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Ghoul's choice to accept as it should have been Lara in front of the sign not the narrowbody lol.
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You can run a catch can through the pipes on the left, but iirc its got a pressure valve in the purple bit, so not sure if its worth it
pipes for rev3 catch can same as rev2. off the rocker cover to the throttle body, stop all the crud recurculating....
thats looking at the engine from the back with the throttle body n inlet manif removed. the stock pipe is shown.... and if you use silicon hose, it will split at the rocker cover end, fuel pipe / oil hose best
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I like the scoop on the side, looks good
, don't think the back brakes would ever need that much cooling though 
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Both, having not much of either this year has highlighted this for me, I should have spent the money i did on tyres and suspension if i'm honest...
if you can only afford to do one then handling first to make the most of the power you have
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bless him, he still in the black6 with the lumpy stickers on?
btw, u can remove a driveshaft without it dribbling everywhere, you just have to jack that side of the car right up
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stick it in the dishwasher... (when the missis is out), does a lovely job,
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I've got the leccy diagram, and tried the 3 way already... double pole double throw may be the winner andy, .... depending on the drawing lol
damn that was quick
So in theory, 2 3 way switches would do?
I'm not fussed bout the p/s side as there's no motor over there anymore, but if my mot rolls round before i can afford the plexiglass i'll need to be able to open the drivers side window...
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When i stripped the door cards out, i got left with the daft shaped window switch with no where to attach it. Saw there were only two wires going into the window motor and figured i'd get a 3 way switch and wire it in to the dash somewhere....
One wire for up and one wire for down... checked the leccy diagram to make sure ( made note that the window lock switch for the p/s side works by interrupting the earth) Power feed in the middle, up wire on one contact, down wire on the other....
Power to one wire, window goes up, power to other wire, window goes down right?
Only it doesn't.. after some head scratching i got the tester out and found that the up and down feeds to the motor are constantly live... both of them at the same time.... you press the button to make the window go down, and the down wire holds constant voltage while the up wire loses voltage... the window goes down... press the up button and the voltage drops on the down wire but stays constant on the up wire...
So how do i replicate this into a normal switch? or switches? i'm sure there is a really obvious way, but i can't get my head round it..
Any ideas?
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Was always told keep the revs under 3k and you'll save fuel... Easy enough when cruising, as 3k in top seems to be 75 mph in most cars
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you will prob find youll be setting your pressures at around 28psi so the come up to temp afre the first few corners. after a run mine sit at 32 before they cool down. little lower tyre pressure will remove some understeer.
Duly noted m8, I only run at 40 for even wear and mpg... and cos the understeers fun... until you don't want it to
If you are passing Sheffield, give us a shout mate
Was just thinking about that Rich, I will be up for a few days... There is I believe one bit of plastic left in the car that should be wrapped
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Dave's right, (even if he is being arsey cos i dropped him in it
) I ditched the daft 17" rims, but was still running 40psi as usual ( and I sold the dolly m8, couldn't afford the gt4 gearbox and rear diff, think i would have felt bad about doing a hatchet job on her if i'm honest ) Some interesting stuff in that lot Jamie, Thanks for digging it out... definitely food for thought.... Bit of luck squeeze a bit of pre season testing in on sunday, see how the right car handles, and hopefully she'll be ok, as i'm driving her up to yorkshire next weekend
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So the gayest of the gay as a powerplant, Nissans drag queen of a new 350z as styling and what exactly is toyotas input? the steering wheel and recession, what recession price tag?
Current times suck...... and not in a good way,
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What's an ft-86?
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Got rear bar sorted, fronts proving tricky as the 6 lump sits higher. I'm half way through single skinning the spare gt4 bonnet to get more space....
The white one still has the cage in, i slung the rear brace on and took the daft 17" rims off.....not nice powering through the corner, and thats with the nearly new gas shocks i'll be using.... Not worried at all
Tyres, good point... size narrower than the wheels is meant to help cornering stability iirc
Reverse everywhere
Auto reverse is pretty handy as it goes, torque converter doesn't care what gear your in
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How to stop it? / cut down on it?
Thoughts please....
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Rich is right, get to your local zoo
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center console behind the ash tray m8.... If you take apart the front before you put the back end together, she'll look like mine
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As in the title, which do i need first, she is sorn and no MOT, tomorrow a new battery will be here, then its ready to get back on the road, just need to now how to do it all legally!!!
Ta.
Im guessing Tax first???
Nope, need an mot certificate and valid insurance to get the tax disc
Punctured tyre
in Consumable Parts
Posted
Here's my opinion on front wheel drive cars again in 3 easy to answer questions
Question 1: would you rather have new tyres and more grip on the front wheels that apply the driving force on to the road to move the car?
Or on the back wheels that essentially just get dragged along behind?
Question2: would you rather have new tyres and better grip on the front wheels that apply the turning force on to the road to turn the car?
Or on the back wheels that essentially just get dragged along behind?
Question3: would you rather have new tyres and better grip on the front wheels that apply around 70% of the braking force (before weight shift) onto the road?
Or on the back wheels that essentially just get dragged along behind?
If you have to lift off halfway round a roundabout and get your front wheel drive celica to oversteer then you were going too fast into the roundabout.
If you get under steer going round a corner or half way round a roundabout then you are putting the power down too early.