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CW Racing

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Posts posted by CW Racing

  1. What would you go for

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted

    for me it's always going to be handling over power first after a darn good service!

    my reason for this is after a darn good service you have a decent level to start the power work from but considering the quality of the roads in the UK power is pretty much rendered useless if your going to be bouncing all over the roads and dodging potholes.

    my gen 7 handles very well when it's me +1 but as soon as i have anyone in the back it lacks the power needed to fly.

    for me i'm not going the coilover route, it's going to be new OE shocks and Eibach springs with new poly bushes full struts etc, so it stiffens the beauty right up, wheel spacers and some top end shoes. then the brakes will be upgraded so i can stop better. then and only then will the power gains come in. and even then i'm only going for a full manifold exhaust system, induction kit, spark plugs, cam kit, lightened fly wheel, and aftermarket ecu. that's all i'm going for.

    All he says lol :)

  10. gen6 ecu

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted

    is there an easy way to get to the ecu on a st202?

    got a race icon to fit but it looks like the ecu is a bitch to get to.

    has anyone fitted a piggyback chip? and how much work was involved.

    also bought c one rear spoiler and a set of side skirts.think ive got the bug!hahaha

    got an fse boost valve and a power deck spacer when ready. and a set of twin pot calipers. oh and should have a 3 point front strut brace and a whiteline rear anti rollbar on in a couple of weeks as well.

    looking at a resray possibly more gunmetal than silver now as well and then a nice set of white 18" alloys to finish her off.

    cheers mitch

    Hi mate what is the piggy back supposed to give you in gains??

  14. Air intake

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted

    Please forgive my ignorance.... If I installed an after market kit would this be Forced Induction. To get cold air Forced Induction I believe you have to insulate from the heat of the engine. Insulated/Sealed/ Forced induction is best from what I have been reading. Is this true. If so could you insulate the Celica air box, adapt it so the after market kit is inside the standard box. Sorry for my babble. It makes sense in My mind lol. If you can follow what I'm trying to ask... Could this work????

    Ok no worries. Forced induction is simply where the inlet Air pressure is supplied at greater than atmosphere. This is typically achieved by using a turbo or supercharger. If you don't have this your car is 'naturally aspirated'. As for all applications air temp should be as cold as possible. Colder air is dense so more oxygen = bigger bang

  17. Advice from those who have done track days

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted

    My advice its a track day not a race. Dont let the red most fall and race people. Just enjoy. Learn your car and you'll love it even more.

    As for the vehicle. Remove all loose objects. Jack, spare wheel etc, even CDs, you don't want anything hitting you if you did have a bump. Also extra weight. Stuff to take, a jack, bit of spare oil and coolant. Tyre pump and pressure gauge.

    Maintenance: oil and brake fluid change after the event.

    If you do get a taste for speed, look us up on the Toyota sprint series and have a bash. It's cheaper than most trackdays and you can enter any road legal car in a street class

  18. GT4 prices

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted

    got to face it... the model is getting old and years ago these cars would be seen as a cheap car with huge performance but with fuel prices so high and as mentioned the maintenance required to keep em running they are getting less and less sort after. i suppose once the numbers of cars get low the price will inflate as enthusiasts will be buying them up.

  25. Understeer

    in General Celica Discussion

    Posted

    another little gem

    UNDERSTEER

    Corner entry understeer: car initially points in and then washes out

    Excessive toe-in or toe-out (car is usually "darty")

    Insufficient front droop travel (non droop limited cars only)

    Insufficient front damper bump resistance (similar to roll stiffness example)

    Insufficient front roll stiffness - car may feel like it is pointing in but may actually be falling over onto the outside front tyre due to insufficient front roll stiffness or diagonal load transfer under heavy trail braking. Initial understeer can often be cured by increasing front roll resistance, even though doing so may increase the amount of lateral load transfer.

    Non linear lateral load transfer due to spring and/or bar geometry. Or to non-optimal roll axis inclination

    Corner entry understeer: car won't point in and gets progressively worse

    Driver braking too hard, too late

    Relatively narrow front track width

    Excessive front tyre pressure

    Excessive front roll stiffness (spring or bar)

    Relative lack of front download (excessive rear download)

    Insufficient front toe-in

    Insufficient Ackermann effect in steering geometry

    Front roll centre too high or too low

    Insufficient front damper bump force

    Insufficient front toe-out

    Excessive Ackermann steering geometry

    Can also be caused by unloading the front tyres due to rearward load transfer under acceleration - cures include:

    - Increasing front damper rebound force

    - Increasing rear damper low speed damper rebound force

    - Increasing rear anti-squat

    - Droop limiting front suspension (will also make turn in more positive and will reduce overall understeer)

    Mid-corner (mid-phase) understeer

    Excessive front tyre pressure

    Excessive relative front roll stiffness

    Excessive front toe (in or out)

    Excessive Ackermann steering geometry

    Relatively narrow front track width

    Corner exit understeer: slow corners

    Often a function of excessive corner entry and mid-phase understeer (whether driver induced or car induced) followed by throttle application whilst maintaining the understeer steering lock. The first step must be to cure the corner entry and mid-phase understeer. If this is impractical, then corner entry speed should be reduced slightly in order to allow earlier throttle application. Sometimes we have to be patient.

    Corner exit understeer: fast corners

    Relative lack of front download - often caused by negative pitch angle (squat) due to rearward load transfer on acceleration. Can be helped by increasing rear anti-squat and/or by increasing rear low speed bump force, increasing front droop force and by limiting the front suspension droop travel.

    Relatively narrow front track width

    .

    Understeer stronger in one direction than in the other

    Uneven caster

    Uneven camber (especially front)

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