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Posts posted by CW Racing
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I hope so. As soon as I have this last few gone I plan to get some more made.
Just a few shots of my product.
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Can't beat a bit of DIY.
Sound like an excuse for a pint.
Craig for that kind of money you can get yourself a little welder and just get some practice then have go
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£80 fella
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i feel some insperation coming on
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I am biased obviously but mine is fitted to a high mislage rev 3 and it's only got an induction kit.
It def adds something top end. Really all I can say until someone. Can rr it
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I'm just pulling your leg.
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WE 'ERDYA THE FIRST TIIIIME!
Fucking iPhone
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Don't tell him that. I got a few left still lol
Don't tell him that. I got a few left still lol
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I'm thinking Castrols for my sprint car next year.
Comments welcome????
If not any suggestions??
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bless him he likes fast and the furious
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stainless should be fine on anything cosmetic. they do tend to gaul up in ally so lots of copper slip is good. i would use good high grade steel bolts for anything structural. nickel plate is good for high temp
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there is little you will get out of the head i think. a general port match and deburr is as good as it gets. from what i have seen of the head design so far they have got it as close to perfect as you can with in the limits the casting gives.
if the head/engine is good then all you need to do is look at thinner head gaskets. if the rev 3 is the same the standard gasket is 1.2mm and you can get 1mm, 0.8mm and 0.6mm gaskets. this should be enough to change the compresion with in useable limits.
standard tools need really. i havent used any thing special as of yet and i only have the sump and crank left to take out.
components to change. water pump, oil pump, cam belt, tensioner and idler, get an engine gasket kit and that will give you all the seals and gaskets you need to change.
pistons should be ok so shouldnt need changing. fensport should be a good place to start for parts and you will get discount as your doing the TSS. if not the good old fleabay for parts.
apart from that its all straigtht forward. rev2 and rev3 are very similar so RP's or my threads should help out.
oh and try and get hold of one of these but for the rev3 3sge http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Toyota-Carina-Celica-Camry-Engine-Repair-Manual-/190591090092?pt=UK_CarParts_Vehicles_Manuals_Litterature_ET&hash=item2c601d3dac they come up for sale every now and then and have every thing you will ever need in there. its just nice having a hard copy you can just flick through in the workshop.
andy
yeah i have the repair manual in PDF ready and waiting.
as for the head work, are you speaking from experience or just from theory... a guy i know from fensport had his done... gt4 steel head gasket. good exhaust and yeilded 200bhp.
its hard to judge fact from fiction sometimes
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Nice when your in this situation and a few simple things bring new life to what was a tired motor.
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As topic. Going to start my 3sge rev3 rebuild
Plan to work the head heavily and skim and raise the compression
Any one know what's safe to run in that area.
Tools required?
Things I might find tricky?
Any components I should change as a matter of course?
Places to buy parts? Over size pistons etc and costs.
Any pictures of the inside if the engine would be of help.
Cheers.
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Hi... As the cold is descending I thought about not ending up stuck like last year and making a few provisions for the 2 weeks of snow we are likely to have.
So. I bought new tyres in the summer and cannot afford to go and stick winter tyres on my car now.
Snow chains seem the next sensible option.
Questions,
Can you fit them and leave them on for the whole journey even if the road is clear in places?
Will this ruin your tyres if they are run on no snow?
How fast can you drive on them?
Are they only just to get you out the pooh?
Any other info would be great. Thanks
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Of her the car running on the chip and cams first then add the other bits maybe.
I would get the car running on the chip and cams first then add the other bits maybe.
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Ring Fensport mate
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Thankyou Brendan
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I would like to say i can build a super 3sge but I think as long as I get an engine as it would have been from the factory then I couldn't complain.
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Yeah agree with the last couple of comments, added to the fact that unless you do regularly take a car on track, big power engines can barely be used to the full extent on the road anyway
That is why i ended up just building my engine back up to factory spec with the main emphasis on getting everything to as close to bottom spec tolerance and even tolerances across the board, like my valve shims, 90 % of them were in spec, but ranged from middle to top spec, they are all now within 10% of the bottom spec so they should all now open to their maximum and all equally the same
That coupled with a decent set of lowering springs, new dampers and front and rear strut braces is perfectly happy on the quality UK roads, even over speed bumps at a reasonable speed without too many issues
be interested in what your rebuilkt engine put out power wise fella
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Handling and/or power delivery although more handling
As IMO very few people can get the most out of their stock setup never mind a heavily tuned one.
I once spoke to a race engine builder/tuner and as he said most road engines he built were for pub talk as the owners weren't capable of using even 25% of what the engine could produce.
agree with this... for you guys who have never been on track you would be surprised how good my gen6 sprinter goes.... puts a smile on my face :)
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now guys.... if some one is trying to intentionally rub some one up the wrong way i think it has worked... Liam let it go.... or your pandering to Brendans bit of fun.... (im sure thats what it is isnt it Brendan ;) )
Back on topic please
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i would say power
the reason ?
handling is the fastest way of geting a car round a race track but we dont drive tracks as a normaility , decent standard suspension is good enough for everyday use so you only get a decent benifit when down on a track , however coilovers feel great untill you drive the rutted mess that is the uk road system , tribanding , curbs , potholes and shit repairs mean a car with the very best suspension simply will never get to use it to its capacity and being honset and im far from an angel here you need to ask just how quick can you go on public roads and is it a good idea to be taking it to the extremes of grip in public ? on the track then hell yeah , decent suspension plus decent brakes and tyres will make you brake and sling it into the twisty stuff faster than it seems is possible to the point its not eay to hold on and it can evenbecome painfull , but out in public then ponys are the smiles per mile , slapping the FUKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK pedal on the way out of islands is a dam site more fun when you have 400 brake plus 400 brake doesnt mind speedbumps , on the track though some little twat with 150 brake and coilovers in his glanza v is always going to annoy the shit out of anyone even when they have 400 bhp
track , suspension
road , power
Good view point izzy
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Both, having not much of either this year has highlighted this for me, I should have spent the money i did on tyres and suspension if i'm honest...
if you can only afford to do one then handling first to make the most of the power you have ......
Get rid of the auto bek. I guarantee at least 2 seconds gain from the manual.
briano
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Oh no. Bad news.