ArgoS

Cheers everyone for your Great reply’s but the Great news is i have bought the engine with just over 40,000 mile on it for £400.00 inc delivery and will do a straight swap out Never even entered my mind about the hydro lock Also @Planc it's a K&N induction kit that is fitted which i will also be changing. The thing is i was in the inside lane with a car on my outside so i had nowhere to go but through the fairly deep puddle Thanks again everyone I LOVE MY CAR and just could never face scrapping it.

It's a 3s-fe running standard apart from K&N air filter. It really has been a great engine and has only just done over a 100,000 mile. I dont know if it had anything to do with it but i hit a large puddle i couldnt avoid on a dual carrageway just minutes before then after stopping i reved the engine and BANG! I've sourced a engine with only 40 odd thousand mile which im debating wether to get or not, funds really are tight at this time of year. Does anyone know exactly what i would need to do inorder to change it to a 3s-ge, would the ecu fit straight on the wiring loom for instance? I really am GUTTED

Well this is jolly start to the Christmas season as my conrod has just come out the side of the engine. What a time for this to happen NOT WANTING AT ALL Still look on the bright side my interior light still works

On my last MOT i got an advisory for a loud exhaust which it never had on three previous MOT's. The exhaust is in A1 condition and is stainless all the way through so couldn't understand why now it's classed as loud, but it passed the MOT and i have never been pulled over.

I may just strip it down and try the rope trick because it would certaily be interesting to find out if it would work. If it doesnt then i'm half way to having the head off anyway and like Dorris has said it would be stupid not to replace the belt and pullys. 1 Head gasket set 2 Streach bolts 3 Timeing belt set 4 Valve steam seals Does anyone know if i would need to replace the cam shaft bearings after they have beed disturbed, also with it being an alloy head would it need to be skimmed at all. Thanks everyone for help. .

No his oil rings had gone LMAO so he completely wasted his time anyway.

Thanks everyone for the replys. The main thing i was going to try is: Remove the cams, lower piston and feed nylon rope into cylender through spark plug holes. Then move piston up untill valves are held up by the rope and use spring removal tool. (similar to whats in this video ) I know hes working on a hunk of junk but it gives the idea of what i was thinking of trying and others seem to think it is possible. The engine has passed a full emissions test and it seems to be down to just one bad oil seal. Just my luck

Has anyone managed to change the valve seals on a gen6 without removing the head, either through compressing the cylinders or the nylon rope method. It's going to have to be done i would just like to do it as cheaply as possible.

If I were you I'd buy a decent clutch from a supplier and have a local garage of a good reputation fit it. I'm sure it would be a lot less than 600 odd quid, Damn! Saying that I've just paid £225.00 to have my hand brake all replaced for it's MOT. Bad time of year for all these bills

I find the best way to make a hole is to use thermite. But do take care as if you make to bigger a hole you'll have a job to fill it.

Sounds to me like it could be the bushes inside the starter motor as the solenoid sounds like it's firing out the starter cog ok. Take off the starter and test it on the floor with jump leads and a piece of wire, Positive to the battery terminal on it and negative to the casing and touch a link from the positive to the small terminal that goes to you ignition on the starter. Hope this helps somewhat.

What a nightmare, R.I.P to whoever they were.

You've got to admit though the gen 6 does still look the best.

What a nightmare.

I think you'd need something like this http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CREAM-LOCKWOOD-TOYOTA-CELICA-DIAL-KIT-180MPH-NEW-DIALS-/370421600985?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item563ed912d9 Although i did manage to get a 180 mph dial a while back when i got the chip but couldn't find any at the moment. I think someone on here sells them but not 100% sure.

Steve cant you just cut the wire from the gear box to the plug. Then join the yellow to the end leading to the gear box, then join the grey wire to the end leading to the plug. Would that work ? Cheers for your help.

I've been looking for the same thing and came across this post on here: http://www.celica-club.co.uk/forum/index.php?showtopic=60573&hl=delimeter Only thing is I noticed your using the green wire, mine has a green wire but I don't think its used but I maybe wrong. If you get yours working let me know as I will be doing mine soon.

I'm guessing they won't take kindly to my Tax disk holder when they take a look at it LOL and i certainly ain't removing it. What do you think ? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1-x-FUNNY-JOKE-NOVELTY-PRANK-TAX-DISC-DISK-HOLDERS-/120726882357?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1c1be20835

I have done this on a few occasions and it has always worked for me - Get a nut that fits over the snapped or rounded bolt and weld through the centre of the nut thus welding the nut to the snapped end of the bolt, the heat also help free up the ceased in section of the bolt. Just be careful not to weld the nut to anything apart from the snapped bolt end. Hope this may help with your problems.

Is that chain a Thatcham cat1 by any chance. It just L00Ks so secure i want to steal it. Now what would be the easiest to saw through ? would it be the chain or would it be the steering wheel ...Hmmm...i wounder FIGHT....

I want one, Mines a jdm but didnt come with this cool gadget Can you buy replacements LOL