Adex
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Posts posted by Adex
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I was on their site earlier...
"Our online shop is now closed, thank you for your interest in our products.
Please email sales @jap-spec-performance.co.uk for any outstanding order enquiries.
NO new orders will be taken.
Many thanks Jamie."
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Firstly, don't tap into your MAP sensor line!
Your engine makes decisions based on that sensor's readings, so false readings are the opposite of good.
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Yep was too
, right after we ran the battery down with the headlights on that dayWe?
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Probably push-startin' the feckin' thing....!
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Make sure you connect the battery first though, eh?
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As has been said on a previous post though, in reality I think both 5's & 6's do have their areas of questionable design.
On a 6 it's obviously the headlights, which were the only bit which never quite sat right with me.
On a 5 its the Quasimodo arse hump (Interesting that so far not one photo posted to convince the guy to buy a 5 has been of the back end....).
Thing is, the 6's problem can be cured with the addition of projectors, to sort a 5 would take some subtle modification with an angle grinder!
What Bully0712 should do is get a gen 4 & drop in a Beams & LSD 'box with some ST205 brakes.
Now that would be perfection.
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the little piece above does start once upon a time, says it all really
At the risk of stating the blindingly obvious, the little piece above starts 'Poor misguided youngster!'....
What really says it all, is that out of that entire post that's the bit you mention.
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saw the title of this and just had to comment.
4 is likely to be covered in rust and parts arent as easy to come by in good condition
the 6 is just butt ugly
go with a 5 and if youre still considering a 6 then put a rev3 in it like Ghoulscout and have the amazing looks of the 5 and power of the 6 (plus the 6 engine looks nicer too)
i <3 my gen 5
Poor misguided youngster!
Allow me to explain what really happened...
Once upon a time, the clever little boffins at Toyota (with their tiny hands) crafted a true masterpiece in the gen 4.
Some years later they decided to try to improve upon their creation.
In their efforts to fix what wasn't broken, they misguidedly penned the awkward to work on, humpty back tinworm magnet that was the gen 5.
Their desire to create a more rounded, sleek design had failed miserably, relying on topical design features such as needlessly motorised headlights, which to this day provide their owners with an apparently debate-ending justification for actually having bought one on purpose.
Keen to rectify their hideous mistake, the boffins were set to work to try to undo some of the damage which had been done to the good name of Celica. Shortly afterwards, the magnificent gen 6 was unleashed on the world (to global rapturous applause & presumably some sort of fanfare).
Mechanically far superior to it's predecessors in every way. Aesthetically too, it had achieved what its mutant older brother had so miserably failed to. Here was a machine worthy of the name Celica.
And perhaps most importantly, here was a car which was able to actually drive down any given stretch of road without hemorrhaging oil &/coolant everywhere.
As if further proof were required, the very same boffins decided that their latest creation had reached the pinnacle of it's evolution & they their new model would rely on design by revolution instead.
Which left us with the gen 7.
Bad Toyota! Bad, bad Toyota!
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Just removed the bolt for the top arm so I could get my big torque wrench between the shock and bolt.
You shouldn't use a torque wrench for undoing nuts/bolts.
It's a precision instrument, not a fancy breaker bar.
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Well the good news is that the bottom one is easier to get to than the top one...
Your options are to either grind &/or drill the head of the bolt then replace it, or depending on what tools (for grinding/drilling) you have, you might have better luck with one of these.
I'd be very wary of hammering sockets onto hub/brake components as they crack a lot easier than you'd think (if you even have enough room to swing a hammer, that is).
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I spoke to Guy at Opie earlier today.
The stuff you've linked is right for your car buddy, it's right at the top end (quality wise) of 'normal' level transmission oils, after which you'll be getting into the more expensive 'performance' oils.
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A car's claimed 0-60 (more than likely done on a perfectly dry test track under ideal conditions) is relevant for what? 0.001% of the situations you're likely to encounter in real life.
They're great for grabbing headlines & impressing 12 year olds, most definitely, but as I don't drive everywhere by caning it up to 60 before emergency stopping & then repeating ad nauseum I couldn't give a chuff really.
Big power is the easy way for people to go fast.
Any idiot can buy a powerful car & mash the loud pedal (as Audi/BMW/Land Rover drivers prove on an hourly basis on motorways across the country).
Now I know everyone thinks they're a driving god & all that, but it's extremely doubtful than anyone you know that has ever said "I need more power" has already fully exploited what power they do have (racers &track day junkies excepted).
Cash can't buy you skill unfortunately, but luckily for the un-gifted but well-endowed of wallet, it does buy big f*ck-off turbos.
As for the g6/g7 versus GT86 comparisons, well a RWD drivetrain will always sap more power than a FWD one so maybe people should start comparing WHP figures, as it's a fair bet that an 86 has a damn sight less ponies making it to terra fima.
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I suspect that the differences in times from 0 to 60 or 10 or 20 bhp either way are as nothing compared to the quality of the machine's operator.
+1
Not only that, but there's always going to be the 'I don't want to wreck my brand new car' thought in the back of the other guy's head.
It's also far easier & safer to wring the neck of a FWD car & get close to it's limits for the average driver.
In the hands of an experienced driver a RWD car that they weren't afraid to crash might well have impressed you more.
Lols at everyone who's test driven one then jumped on the 'not powerful enough' bandwagon.
Like anyone got anywhere close to experiencing what a GT86 can really do on a test drive!
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I have to be honest here, not once have I checked insurance before buying a car.
It's bollocks having to let insurance decide what you drive for you.
If I want a specific car, I buy it.
If it costs a lot to insure, than I work a bit harder to afford it.
To me complaining about insurance is like complaining about the increase in say road tax, tyre or service parts cost when you go from a 1ltr micra to a GTR!
Of course it will cost more, but that's the price you pay for having a better car.
There is always someone who will insure you.
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You have a PM incoming old chap.
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Wow, er yeah, either option would be amazing fella.
Whichever puts you out the least really.
Thanks very much for the offer.
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Wot he said ^^ !
Given the amount of oil you tend to seen in inlet pipes though, I really would go with a catch can as opposed to plumbing it back in.
Even ST205 inlets usually have a little oily puddle in them & they have a basic catch can (albeit one that vents air back into the inlet & drains back into the block) as standard.
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NP mate let me know, Send me a PM just incase this thread gets lost if ya need me
Same here. Drop me a pm if you want me to get it Saturday. I'm going to Northampton meet on Sunday so could pass it on to someone going further down south.
You both have pm's.
Right well it looks like I have a couple of options for storage.
Next question.
Is anyone traveling from or through the Market Harborough/Leicester/ Kettering area on their way south (ideally towards Surrey/West Sussex) on or after this Sunday the 24th?
If you are, would you be able/have space in whatever you're driving to help with getting my front lip down to me?
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Morning I am in Leicester if that helps
I'm in Kettering, just a few miles away
Thanks fellas, I'll get in touch with the seller & see which one of you he's cool with.
karm3ll, you'd be better for me as you're a little closer, but HiluxSurf, you're more on his way so if it's cool with you both I'll be in touch as soon as I hear back from him.
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It looks like you have an ST165 manifold, yes.
The branches will be round too, whereas your ports are oval. Not ideal.
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Genuinely my pleasure.
Projects like yours & the mentality which motivates them is 100% what I signed up for.
Sure, lobbing in a pre-turbo'd lump is easier, but doing it yourself to create something special is what it's all about.
I had the honour of being let loose in a DIY turbo'd ST (I forget the guy's username) at a meet a few years back & loved it.
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It's worth pointing out that OBX make a few different DIY flanges, so have a browse & see which will be best for your needs.
The one in the link is for a USDM 5SFE so check it's good for your c/head stud pattern.
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Only other thing you may need to think about is longer studs or swapping to bolts.
The flange in the link is 0.4" so 10.16mm so without knowing how much clearance is needed, this looks like a good bet.
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Right, I've just done a bit of research for you & given a spare fe manifold I have a look over.
It's a 1 piece casting with a formed flange section around 15mm thick.
Now removing the branches & making the mating surface perfectly flat will be a lot of work & very difficult, so....
If only everything in life was that easy, eh?
How to set a BOV
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
2 Totally different things bud.
BOV - Dumps unwanted boost (when the throttle body closes) to avoid compressor stall & associated engine/turbo death.
Wastegate - Diverts exhaust gas away from turbo to limit/control boost.