Difference between revisions of "Rear Hub Swap"
(New page: Took an evening off sandblasting and figured it was time to swap the dodgy back wheel bearing. Advisory on mot, and just reached the clunky, grind on slow speed braking. Cheers to Biggy ...) |
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You will need : 14mm ratchet, breaker bar/pipe, small flat bladed screwdriver, torch, couple of zip ties, jack n axle stands and whatever you use to take your wheel off | You will need : 14mm ratchet, breaker bar/pipe, small flat bladed screwdriver, torch, couple of zip ties, jack n axle stands and whatever you use to take your wheel off | ||
1: Jack her up, in gear, hand brake OFF. axle stands under for safety and to take the pressure of your 20 yr old sills. Wheel off: | 1: Jack her up, in gear, hand brake OFF. axle stands under for safety and to take the pressure of your 20 yr old sills. Wheel off: | ||
| − | + | [[Image:1WheelOff.jpg]] | |
2: Remove 2 14mm caliper bolts from behind the hub: | 2: Remove 2 14mm caliper bolts from behind the hub: | ||
| − | + | [[Image:2Caliperbolts.jpg]] | |
3: Zip tie caliper to suspension to keep it out of the way, I do it through the pad carrier as i have ripped rubber boots off before | 3: Zip tie caliper to suspension to keep it out of the way, I do it through the pad carrier as i have ripped rubber boots off before | ||
| − | + | [[Image:3Suspendcaliper.jpg]] | |
4: Turn the wheel until the little rubber plug is at the bottom. | 4: Turn the wheel until the little rubber plug is at the bottom. | ||
| − | + | [[Image:4rubberplugtobottom.jpg]] | |
5: Remove the plug and as you look in with the torch you should be able to see a toothed wheel, push this DOWN a few turns through the plug hole with the screwdriverto loosen the handbrake shoes. This is what the toothed wheel looks like: | 5: Remove the plug and as you look in with the torch you should be able to see a toothed wheel, push this DOWN a few turns through the plug hole with the screwdriverto loosen the handbrake shoes. This is what the toothed wheel looks like: | ||
| + | [[Image:5hanbrakeadjustwheel.jpg]] | ||
| + | 6: With the shoes loosened you should be able to wiggle the disc off. If not then there are 2 threaded holes on the face (look at pic 4, bout ten o clock and two o clock) Screw some bolts in and the disc will pop off. | ||
| − | + | [[Image:6Boltslineupwithhole.jpg]] | |
7: Undo the 4 bolts (gotta love mrT and 14mm sockets ) You can thread an extension bar through the holes to get to them. Short extension bar, long breaker bar (or ratchet and scaffold pipe, they will/should be tight) You will find on 2 that part of the handbrake mech is slightly in the way. You can usually wiggle a 3/8th socket on ok though. Try not to rive at the handbrake mech, leave it alone, and you won't have to find springs 15 feet away | 7: Undo the 4 bolts (gotta love mrT and 14mm sockets ) You can thread an extension bar through the holes to get to them. Short extension bar, long breaker bar (or ratchet and scaffold pipe, they will/should be tight) You will find on 2 that part of the handbrake mech is slightly in the way. You can usually wiggle a 3/8th socket on ok though. Try not to rive at the handbrake mech, leave it alone, and you won't have to find springs 15 feet away | ||
| − | + | [[Image:7Shouldpullfree.jpg]] | |
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8: Don't bother trying to pick the loosened bolts out, they will come away with the hub. A pull and a wiggle, and she's out: | 8: Don't bother trying to pick the loosened bolts out, they will come away with the hub. A pull and a wiggle, and she's out: | ||
| − | + | [[Image:8cleanoldgrease.jpg]] | |
9: Remove old grease, treat and clean small rust patch, god only knows how it gets in there Clean abs speed sensor: | 9: Remove old grease, treat and clean small rust patch, god only knows how it gets in there Clean abs speed sensor: | ||
| − | + | [[Image:9removeandreplaceouteroring.jpg]] | |
10: Around the outside there is an o-ring, pick it off carefully and clean the area round where it seats.I remove and clean the o-ring, touch of fresh grease and re-use. up to you if you want to replace with a new one: | 10: Around the outside there is an o-ring, pick it off carefully and clean the area round where it seats.I remove and clean the o-ring, touch of fresh grease and re-use. up to you if you want to replace with a new one: | ||
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General disclaimer: This is the way I do it, It may not be the way MrT recommends you do it. I do it this way 'Cos i've already done it the hard way | General disclaimer: This is the way I do it, It may not be the way MrT recommends you do it. I do it this way 'Cos i've already done it the hard way | ||
You break your car and i'm not there, It's not my fault | You break your car and i'm not there, It's not my fault | ||
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| + | Courtesy of Bek8111<br> | ||
| + | --[[User:Rpsmith79|Rich]] 21:32, 26 December 2010 (UTC) | ||
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| + | ---- | ||
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| + | [[Generation 5|Back To Gen 5 Maintenance]] | ||
Latest revision as of 21:33, 26 December 2010
You will need : 14mm ratchet, breaker bar/pipe, small flat bladed screwdriver, torch, couple of zip ties, jack n axle stands and whatever you use to take your wheel off
1: Jack her up, in gear, hand brake OFF. axle stands under for safety and to take the pressure of your 20 yr old sills. Wheel off:
2: Remove 2 14mm caliper bolts from behind the hub:
3: Zip tie caliper to suspension to keep it out of the way, I do it through the pad carrier as i have ripped rubber boots off before
4: Turn the wheel until the little rubber plug is at the bottom.
5: Remove the plug and as you look in with the torch you should be able to see a toothed wheel, push this DOWN a few turns through the plug hole with the screwdriverto loosen the handbrake shoes. This is what the toothed wheel looks like:
6: With the shoes loosened you should be able to wiggle the disc off. If not then there are 2 threaded holes on the face (look at pic 4, bout ten o clock and two o clock) Screw some bolts in and the disc will pop off.
7: Undo the 4 bolts (gotta love mrT and 14mm sockets ) You can thread an extension bar through the holes to get to them. Short extension bar, long breaker bar (or ratchet and scaffold pipe, they will/should be tight) You will find on 2 that part of the handbrake mech is slightly in the way. You can usually wiggle a 3/8th socket on ok though. Try not to rive at the handbrake mech, leave it alone, and you won't have to find springs 15 feet away
8: Don't bother trying to pick the loosened bolts out, they will come away with the hub. A pull and a wiggle, and she's out:
9: Remove old grease, treat and clean small rust patch, god only knows how it gets in there Clean abs speed sensor:
10: Around the outside there is an o-ring, pick it off carefully and clean the area round where it seats.I remove and clean the o-ring, touch of fresh grease and re-use. up to you if you want to replace with a new one:
And that's it. About 20 mins to remove, same to re-assemble. Fresh grease round the new bearing, Bit of loctite on the 4 hub nuts (remember how tight they were, do em up f.t) Disc back on. REMEMBER to tighten the handbrake shoes up again when the disc is on. (I do em till the wheel won't move, then off 3 clicks) Put the little rubber bung back in to stop water getting in. Cut the zipties, do up the two caliper bolts, wheel on and test.
General disclaimer: This is the way I do it, It may not be the way MrT recommends you do it. I do it this way 'Cos i've already done it the hard way You break your car and i'm not there, It's not my fault
Courtesy of Bek8111
--Rich 21:32, 26 December 2010 (UTC)
