Yellcel Posted 1 June Report Posted 1 June Took the car in for a 4 wheel alignment. Garage wouldn't do the rear as didn't want to snap the camber bolts. Doesn't help that the whole underside is generously coated in waxoil. Question is would anyone recommend aftermarket camber and toe bolts (adjustable) and a set up for spirited driving? Want to fit stiffer rear arb's (whiteline) down the line so adjustable may be a good choice. I may just go with Toyota parts though and stock setup for geometry. anyone on here know the part numbers? Any opinions would be greatly Appreciated
slybunda Posted 1 June Report Posted 1 June From what iv seen all these mods are useless unless your on track. Since I don't drive my Celica like in the video above modding it was useless in fact it's made it worse with the tte springs, I seriously doubt playing around with camber etc while street driving will may any difference at all. Iv got plans to go back to stock height but since I sold off my original springs it's gonna be expensive to replace them
Yellcel Posted 1 June Author Report Posted 1 June Thanks for your response @slybunda. Love these videos commentary is so hype. Forgot to mention I have 8j 225/45/17 so that will factor in. Overall prefer this setup to stock. More comfort, can lean on the tyre more handles bumps and uneven roads much better. Feels more planted. Only down side handling wise has been a more vague rear end especially in transition.Thought a stiffer rear arb may resolve that and some minor geometry tweaks. Might stick with stock specs and fit a arb next year can always take it off.
Yellcel Posted 1 June Author Report Posted 1 June I figured since going for bigger tyres with more comfort that would give me more flexibility with adjustment for a stiffer more focused setup. I do push the car a fair bit through corners.
Jim881 Posted 1 June Report Posted 1 June I've got front upper, rear upper brace and coilovers which handle great in corners but I do sacrifice comfort on british roads. @Bumblebee is probably your man for setup as he tracks his car and will know what works best. 1
Bumblebee Posted 1 June Report Posted 1 June Unfortunately if you go for a full on track set up you will compromise on comfort , the car will follow the camber of the road and white lines if you have a wheel on them. Doesn't make for an enjoyable ride tbh. Part of the reason mines now only track use. For the road you should be able to get plenty of camber on the rear using original camber bolts. Unfortunately the bolts tend to sieze into the inner sleeve of the bush and the easiest way to get them out is to drop the rear subframe for access. Rear toe is adjustable , if bolts aren't siezed. They can be a pita to remove. I've had to cut the bolts in the past. Front camber, if you don't have adjustable top mounts you can buy camber bolts. From memory they are 15mm and are available from Gt4-play on line. Not expensive. A stiffer rear arb will help If fitting strut braces, don't buy cheap. Total waste of money 2
Yellcel Posted 1 June Author Report Posted 1 June Thanks @Bumblebee super helpful info there. Would you recommend a ballpark setup for toe & camber with OEM hardware. I only drive the car on the weekend on the Twisties.
Yellcel Posted 1 June Author Report Posted 1 June @Bumblebee @Jim881 was thinking of picking up these camber bolts, back up for when original ones likely snap getting an alignment https://powerflexstore.co.uk/toyota/celica-2000-2005/powerflex-poweralign-camber-bolt-kit-15mm-celica-2000-2005-pfa100-15/?gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=1634134958&gbraid=0AAAAAC5tFaTMmeSXvy5yslG80bxvRH6mF&gclid=Cj0KCQjw9O_BBhCUARIsAHQMjS66O4u7igZ5wcr7FdG5ADneRqujGv8moAs8k_SNHlXQlEkDAlhOPZsaAqI6EALw_wcB Not for the full adjustability but because they are zinc plated.. couldn't find stainless ones. This is all I could find for toe bolts https://gt4-play.co.uk/shop/toe-bolt-plate-nut-kit-genuine-toyota Is that all I need for an alignment? Anything else worth swapping out whilst they are in there?
Bumblebee Posted 1 June Report Posted 1 June Those camber bolts are for the front not rear, not sure if you realised that. To change out the rear camber bolts and toe bolts il warn you now. It can be a pig of a job. Worst case bolts will need cutting if they are stuck in the bushes. Bushes will need replacing. You'll need a good day to do it on your own on the drive. Quicker to have the bushes burnt out at a local garage and have them press new bushes in if you don't have the gear. Plenty of copper grease on the bolts when you bolt it back up Also check the rear subframe around the camber arms mountings. They corroded badly 1
Yellcel Posted 2 June Author Report Posted 2 June Thanks mate appreciate all the info. Knew it would be a pain to get them out. Will pick up some new camber, toe bolts, rear arb and poly bushes on stock geometry and see how that goes. 1
Jim881 Posted 2 June Report Posted 2 June As @Bumblebee said they are a pain, I doubt you'll snap them but they will no doubt be stuck in the metal sleeve. my advice is to drop the whole lot and change the bolts and bushes. Also make sure you soak the ARB bolts. The easiest bolt to shear on gen 7s. Your more than welcome to look at my build thread. Has loads of gen on a rear subframe swap. Double check but here's your part numbers for the toe and camber bolts you need . 1
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