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Imobiliser/ignition problem


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Im going to garage it in the next few weeks,i want to get it back to forecourt condition & possibly turbo it,weve just had a baby so cant really get 2 other kids & car seat in,my plan is to buy a run around,then work on the Celica in stages.So potentially i could bring it over & let you keep it overnight & try it in the morning,its the only way you could see it at its worst.
Are you close to Rugby?


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I managed to take a quick video of it this morning,you will see as i let off the throttle the engine management light flickers .What you cant see is that while this is happening my headlights go really dim aswell.
How do i upload a video?,ive tried using the tabs on Tapatalk but none of them let me send the video.do you have an email i can send it to?


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I wouldn't completely rule out that code. If it's a lambda/o2 sensor playing up then the car could be fuelling wrong and a car fuels differently when cold compared to when hot. That could explain the kangerooing when cold if the car isn't fuelling right.

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Hi Foogles,thanks for your reply.when it first started doing this kangarooing i changed both the front & rear 02 sensors thinking it could be that.Im at a complete loss with it now to be honest.


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Hi Foogles,thanks for your reply.when it first started doing this kangarooing i changed both the front & rear 02 sensors thinking it could be that.Im at a complete loss with it now to be honest.


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fault wont be related to 420 which is cat

 

but you mention secondary air - which is another code - can you check the code again please?

 

Im guessing a vac pipe or air pump would be good place to start

 

 

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ams you are right,its P0410 not 420,i had wrote down the codes on a bit of paper in the garage,the new 02 sensors sorted the 420 code,i wrote that post at 4am though,which is probably why i got confused,haha
While i think about it,how can i tell if i have a Corolla or Celica 2zz-ge engine in my car?,the bloke id bought the car off said he had fitted a replacement engine & that it was from a Corolla,but how can i check?,i need to get hold of a full repair manual,but i dont want to buy it for a Celica if its a Corolla engine in mine or vise-versa.
Cheers mate


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Dont think repair manual will help with your issue. Had a customer who took there car to toyota a few months back with a few issues, they recommended ECU so he called me up, I told him its not ECU but toyota insisted it was, he bought one and it didnt fix the problem, then they said it was loom, told him not likely but he bought one didnt fix the issue. Anyway after 4 weeks of Toyota having the car, I spoke to him on the phone for half an hour and the next day the car was fixed.

Really needs going over properly as something probably isnt right from when the engines been swapped.

 

The secondary air pump - if thats having issues it puts a large load on the battery - when they go bad they normally draw too much load and  blow the fuse. Need to test the pump first and then check the valve from the manifold, and also check the vac pipes. But it might not be related to your issue. But given that the air injection only comes on when the car is cold it does kind of make sense...
 

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Are you in the midlands?


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What you are saying makes sense because when it starts to do the kangarooing the lights go really dim,and continue to do so even when its not kangarooing,it doesnt do it everytime,but the EML flashes & lights go dim when it does.


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This is why i want to take the engine out!!!..,i want to strip it right down,the build it back up with new parts & everything done properly.Im gonna get hold of a proper repair manual & take my time getting it right.At the min it has silly little faults,but they are getting worse & worse.
I just want to get it right now.


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I would start with fixing the issues you are having, rather than taking the engine out. I see cars too often where people go down a route of trying to fix something and end up causing more issues and then it becomes a bigger job that no one wants to touch. I bought a gen5 a couple of years back that was a non runner, previous owner had done multiple things to try and fix it, but ended up causing more problems. Fixed the actual original problem quite quickly but am now trying to figure out what else he has touched and have found 5 things that he had put wrong when trying to find the actual issue but still not got to the bottom of what else he has played with.

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Ams-i dont know if this will shed any light on the problem but yesterday i was coming down the hill to my house,when i pressed the brakes pretty hard the engine cut out.Then this morning on my way to work i was braking for a roundabout,as i changed down & pressed the brakes the EML flashed as usual but i could feel something through the pedal,like a clicking feeling,not like anything the discs or pads could cause.ive never felt anything like it in any car before.It didnt cut out like yesterday.


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I'm not familiar with gen 7, is it normal for security light to fkash with an engine problem ?

 

Assuming no, it sounds far more like a poor connection causing electrical power loss. Most likely with the clutch swap a connection has been left loose (e.g. earth strap or battery), a plug not pushed fully together, or something shorting to earth, e,g, nattery left loose or loom left rubbing on engine or body.

Also, check all the bolts are tight holding engine to gearbox, and clutch cylinder bolts. These loose would cause inconsistent bite point and kangarooing described.

 

Unless you are an experienced mechanic, don't try removing and refitting the engine. Far more likely you will just ruin the car or end up with a pile of parts and no idea how to put them back.

 

It may be an idea to take the car to someone experienced and familiar with the car such as AMS. They are far more likely to spot the problem.

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Hi Chris,thanks for your reply,the security light isnt a usual thing,i dont even think the EML just flashing is normal either,its either on or off isnt it?i am going to check all the bell housing bolts later today,then i'll check all the earth connections once ive done that.My friend who did the clutch had never done a Toyota before so im also wondering about a connection or such like,i laboured for him while he did the major work.I need to get hold of either a pic or diagram of where any earth connects when changing a clutch,i know at the time he said there were a few different earths,but because he dis & re-connected them i dont know which go where!!!!
I cant afford to take it to a mechanic at the min,weve just had a baby,im completely skint,this is why i want to do all the work myself.
Im convinced my friend has cocked the clutch up somewhere,i know its a stage 4 clutch but it shouldnt feel like it does!!..,to pull away i have to give it loads of revs,and if i try to hold it on the bite point with no revs i can feel it vibrating like mad,before stalling!!
Everything comes back to the clutch Chris.
Where can i get hold of some info on which bell housing bolts go where?,because i read yesterday that if he's mixed the bolts up it would have an effect on the clutch.I should of got him to number them,but at the time i didnt see what bolts he was taking from where.
Cheers mate


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