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Rust Killing Paints


bazz54

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Picking up from the thread in the Gen7 sub-forum which suggests that corrosion on 7's (rear sub-frames and petrol tanks) is now becoming an issue, I'm curious about what people currently think are the best paints for dealing with such problems.

A couple of people on that thread say they'll be using Hammerite, and in the past I would have agreed with them; Hammerite used to be the dog's danglies. But lots of paints have had their formulations changed in recent years to suit health/safety/environment requirements, and in the case of Hammerite's "direct to metal paint", I'm not sure it's as good as it used to be. I recall seeing comments on other car forums that the current formulation is hard/brittle and does not do well where the component is subject to flexing or stone impact(?).

I do have quite a good opinion of Hammerite's "Rust Beater", which I think is a completely different product to the direct to metal stuff. As my 7 is coming up on 14 years old , I probably need to take a look at the chassis when the weather gets better.

B

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I haven't used either of these myself, but Granville Heavy Duty Rust Cure and Epoxy Mastic 121 are supposed to be good. They are both expensive, but cheaper than the cost of a welded repair if you let the rust take over.

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I have a tin of David's Zinc 182, it's all ready for action but haven't used it yet....

Was going to use it on the rear sub-frame, but after finding the preparation too time consuming and fiddly using my humble little drill and rotary wire brush, we had a change of plan.

The donor sub-frame has been taken apart and the smaller parts sand-blasted, primed, painted and bake hardened. The main centre part was too big to fit in the blaster, or the oven, so was [laboriously] striped using an industrial rotary wire brush to remove surface rust and what was left of the original paint. It's been painted with a primer but i don't know what the product is - will find out and report back soon [with photos].

Another issue is the option of whether to poly-bush or not.

The original bushes on my donor sub-frame look fine so we plan to re-use them.

However, i'm like what i read about the specifications of the SuperPro polybushes, shame they don't do them for the Gen7 rear sub-frame [...yet?]

Debs

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I've used that myself & it does seem good, a lot cheaper on their website but only used it after I have used a rust converter first

http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-fe-123-best-in-every-test-/p405034/

What you linked to I used after I had converted the rust as a top coat

http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-epoxy-mastic/p404984

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I have a tin of David's Zinc 182, it's all ready for action but haven't used it yet....

Was going to use it on the rear sub-frame, but after finding the preparation too time consuming and fiddly using my humble little drill and rotary wire brush, we had a change of plan.

The donor sub-frame has been taken apart and the smaller parts sand-blasted, primed, painted and bake hardened. The main centre part was too big to fit in the blaster, or the oven, so was [laboriously] striped using an industrial rotary wire brush to remove surface rust and what was left of the original paint. It's been painted with a primer but i don't know what the product is - will find out and report back soon [with photos].

Another issue is the option of whether to poly-bush or not.

The original bushes on my donor sub-frame look fine so we plan to re-use them.

However, i'm like what i read about the specifications of the SuperPro polybushes, shame they don't do them for the Gen7 rear sub-frame [...yet?]

Debs

Do a search for energy suspension in the states ..they do a front and rear kit for the gen7 ..is very reasonably priced and shipping isn't too bad (especially if you can get a group buy together) I did mine all round and was impressed with them :) Edited by sh3p
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I've used that myself & it does seem good, a lot cheaper on their website but only used it after I have used a rust converter first

http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-fe-123-best-in-every-test-/p405034/

What you linked to I used after I had converted the rust as a top coat

http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-epoxy-mastic/p404984

so converter it then epoxy mastic over it yeah?

Ive had my car underside done, but turns out the paint he used is porous, which is no good.

So do i have to wire brush this coating off then use the converter and mastic?

Edited by 25th Anniversary
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Get some red oxide paint, that has chemicals within it that reacts with rust and counteracts it, it's expensive but is good stuff

The original red oxide paints contained lead, but have now been very much restricted (banned?), so the term "red oxide" now mainly refers to the colour of the paint. Though it's generally accepted that "Red Oxide" paints are rust/corrosion resistant, any two of them could fairly different. All that said, Screwfix do a a very inexpensive Red Oxide, which brushes on and takes to surfaces very well (some paints seem "stodgy" by comparison), and I've not used it on a car, but it does seem to have done well on other stuff that gets left outside.

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My car got an MOT note for subframe rust. DO these regularly rust through and be a complete MOT failure or is it just a surface rust warning that lots of models get? Google seems to throw up a range of answers.

I have almost a year till the next MOT so I thought about getting a spare subframe, getting it sandblasted and coated but is this a real pain? How much stuff needs to be removed to accomplish this? I presume I would need to replace all rubbers on it etc.

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Buying and stripping a spare rear sub for the lads Tsport was the best and easiest option. After stripping it down burnt out the old bushes, sand blasted ever thing a good coat of zinc 152 then black hammerite. let it set a few days fit the polybush kit and it took less than an hour to swap job done. I personally believe you can't beat sand blasting to remove all the old paint and rust back to a bare bones virgin surface you only got yourself to blame if it rust again cus you didn't paint it well enough. Never been a fan of these rust killer / converters if they were any good don't you think they would have dragged the Titanic up give it a coat and shouted look its like new. Would have been the best advert ever.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have been reading up on Dinitrol products as i plan to sort the underneath of my Gen 7. Flaky/scaly rust in the usual places. Anybody any experience of this brand of products?

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kurust used to be a very good product - ive not used it for a number of years - but it would react with surface rust

Think you then need to paint over it with something else

In regards to the subframes rotting thorugh - yes they are rotting all the way through, so much has been the demand in the last few months that I have actually run out of them on the shelf and they are having to be removed on order- the years of stockpiling them has actually paid off, same went for the shelves of petrol tanks and filler pipes that I had

The main area they are going is - the two arms at the top of the subframe that go forward and bolt on to the body and also the drivers side just in front of the camber bolt - which is going to be a hard area to clean and treat with it on the car

Edited by ams
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This issue with subframes seems vaguely reminiscent of the problem with the original mini years ago. I never owned one, but always had the impression that the rest of the car could be great but the subframes completely gone.

I've just bought 5L of Johnstone's zinc phosphate primer and 5 L of their semi-gloss over-coat (well below list price on ebay) and need to make a start on both cars ASAP.

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Kurust is decent stuff,but not for heavily corroded surfaces.A few years back i used a lot of Waxoyl over Hammerite,its done its job well so far.If i had to take the underside of the the car back and re - treat it,I think I would probably use the POR products and/or Dinitrol,which gets very good feedback on the classic car scene.Waxoyl in box sections or Dinitrol.I still check under my car every year and top up the Waxoyl,its protected my car for a good while.You have to make sure theres no hidden nasties though,even i missed a few of these and ended up having to get Bek to get the welder out a couple of years later.

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