Gimba Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 (edited) HelloChanged discs and pads all round about a month ago, but I had a knocking noise when moving, but stopped when brakes applied, I jacked car up today and found the discs have 2mm gaps around the nut screws, so it keeps knocking on the screws as it goes round, have I missed something, should there be something that makes them stay in place? Or have I been sent ones where the holes are just too big? Are the holes meant to be almost the same size as the nut screws with no gaps? It's the rears Edited October 26, 2015 by Gimba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumblebee Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 thats as they should be , the wheel holds everything tight so they cant move . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimba Posted August 1, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 So you have a knocking noise too? Because mine still move, I can't figure out how to stop it :/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monkey Boy 1 Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 Have you got wheel spacers fitted ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sh3p Posted August 1, 2015 Report Share Posted August 1, 2015 If they move when your wheels on I would be worried your wheel is not seating correctly and not tight enough...disc should not move unless it's specifically a floating disc design . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gogz_ Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 This was exactly where I got to but came to the same conclusion as bumblebee above. Do you hear a thud when you brake in reverse? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimba Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) This is the problem,when you brake it shuds forward or whatever and makes that noise, it just doesn't make sense to me Pictures for whatever reason And yes the nuts are done up tight Edited August 2, 2015 by Gimba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scouserchris Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 The noise to me just seems like the movement you get without wheel on, disc contact with studs. Maybe the wheel isn't seating 100% correct so not holding everything tight as it should. What rims and studs are you using to secure them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimba Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 Trouble is never had the problem with my old discs, with the same wheels, I'm assuming swapping the alloys over wouldn't make and difference? Coming home tonight and it was louder than what it was before I took them off Gets louder turning left, quite or stops when turning right and also stops when pushing brakes in even just with a mm touch Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scouserchris Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 The small amount of braking will hold the disc steady and prevent the knocking. Maybe try jack the car up without loosing the wheel nuts and see if you can get any slight movement in alloys? Could pin point the issue to one wheel and give you chance to try and find anything in the way of where its mounting. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armoredfist2002 Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 In the video you posted did you loosen the cog on the handbrake when your turning the disc? As i'm pretty sure when I did my brakes and tightened the cog up, when the handbrake is off and the disc rotates it shouldn't move and catch the wheel studs like it does in you video, it should be tight as if the wheel nuts were holding it. Is there a problem with the cog or shoes insides that could be causing this? Is the disc seated properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
princy Posted August 2, 2015 Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 The noise you're describing sounds more like caliper rattle, is there enough space between the spokes of your wheels to get your hand to the caliper?, if so, with the wheel fitted and tight put your hand through and give the caliper a shake and see if there's any play there. If so, it could be down to sticky sliders, damaged or missing pad springs/clips or even a little air in the line. As already said above, once the wheel is fitted it should clamp the disc in place, I think that noise with the wheel off might be a red herring though Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimba Posted August 2, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2015 (edited) In the video you posted did you loosen the cog on the handbrake when your turning the disc? As i'm pretty sure when I did my brakes and tightened the cog up, when the handbrake is off and the disc rotates it shouldn't move and catch the wheel studs like it does in you video, it should be tight as if the wheel nuts were holding it. Is there a problem with the cog or shoes insides that could be causing this? Is the disc seated properly? As it goes yeah I did do the clog. But how tight should it go, because if it's role up too much I can't even move the disc round, it'll feel like the brakes are on or handbrake, or is it meant to feel stuck? Or maybe I used the wrong technique, I turn the cog downward to loosen the disc to pull it off, with the hand brake off, then put the new disc on, flicked the cog up so that it's not stuck tight, but enough that it doesn't move really freely when spinning them round, a slight bit of resistance I'll check calipers tomorrow morning but I'm sure they are good, the springs are all there too and securely in Edited August 2, 2015 by Gimba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armoredfist2002 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 When I did mine it was a balancing act. I turned the cog enough to hold the disc on, but spins freely when the handbrake is off. When the handbrake is on it's very tight to stop the car moving. I found it easier to fit the wheels and move tha car and put the handbrake on to see if it held the car, I could feel one side was holding but the other was slack, so tightened it a bit more and then it held, but it didn't spin as freely as I would have liked, but it should wear the shoes down a little over time and slacken off, you could hear it rubbing a little when I rotated the disc. Have the shoes worn too much they won't hold enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david924s Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 In the video you have not put the two countersunk bolts back into the disc to secure them to the hub if these go in then the disc wont move and then the wheel nuts should hold them in place with the wheels on. In the pictures its the two small holes at around 11 and 5 o'clock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimba Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 (edited) ... I never had countersunk bolts to begin with, Are they all universal would you know, I'll order some whereever you get them from? Also would two tiny bolts really stop movement? Surly the force of braking will just scrape the bolts on the hub, that's my thinking anyway Would anyone know if these are the fitment needed? http://www.screwfix.com/p/socket-countersunk-screws-a2-stainless-steel-m6-x-16mm-pack-of-50/96477 Edited August 3, 2015 by Gimba Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david924s Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 Not sure if they are the ones but M6 sounds right and they are normally only short, good idea to use hex head ones as the normal cross head type normally rounds off. The two bolts are not to stop disc movement when in use that is done by the wheel bolts but they do help to pull the disc up square onto the hub and hold it there while you fit the wheels, also check the hub face is clean and smooth before fitting the discs as any rust etc. will cause them not to sit flush Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
armoredfist2002 Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 In the video you have not put the two countersunk bolts back into the disc to secure them to the hub if these go in then the disc wont move and then the wheel nuts should hold them in place with the wheels on. In the pictures its the two small holes at around 11 and 5 o'clock. There are no countersunk bolts to hold on the rear discs, I don't know where you got this from. The two holes are to put bolts in to help remove the discs from the hubs if they have been on a few yaers, instead of smacking the back of the discs with a hammer, a few turns with 2 bolts and it comes straight off. And besides the holes are not countersunk. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gimba Posted August 3, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 woops, just bought a pack of 50 from screwfix Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david924s Posted August 3, 2015 Report Share Posted August 3, 2015 The two small ones are for holding the disc to the hub the larger threaded hole near the wheel stud is what you use to remove the disc if stuck usually a 10mm threaded hole, the countersunk bolts go in the two small holes and into two threaded holes in the hub Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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