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WHAT GAUGE WIRE IS THE STANDARD POSITIVE BATTERY LEAD


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Are you relocating the battery to the boot then ?

If you are, I will measure the thickness of the wire on my sons BMW which had a boot mounted battery, I know the wires are bloody thick compared to a standard engine bay mounted battery.

Edited by Monkey Boy 1
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Cheers Simon, yes its for battery a relocate. I have the cable in hand my query is we plan to put a fused connection to the original + feed cable under the bonnet (and another in the boot next to battery) My glitch is the cable Im using is 1.0 gauge and is far bigger than the orginal toyota feed. The fused link has a 1.0 inlet and optional gauge outlets, it just seems a weak link using the remaining toyota cable or have I answered my own question ? Hope this makes sense :)

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Yes the Toyota cable would be the weak link in terms of cable, but as long as its not weaker than the fuse it will be 'alright'. I'd replace it right up to the fuse box if possible.

0 gauge is over kill though :) I'm using 25mm2 which is AWG4 in 'mercan money and rated to 170AMPs (150AMP breaker at the battery).

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I used 0 gauge but mainly because I got a really good deal on ebay for a length of it that was spot on :)

You have made me want to put a fuse in now between my cable and the engine bay line. At the moment it is a junction box, so both ends on eyelets that are bolted on to that - could easily replace with a fuse box instead for some extrra security.

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Hi Dan, it is a minefield knowing what to use, the amount of differing views on what size/ gauge cable is best. I was planning on getting the cable this week so may well take your advice and drop the size, many thanks :)

Know the feeling!

Mine boot relocation is on my Fabia and fortunately a guy has done the same and pretty much followed the same path as me... trying a 100AMP breaker first and finding he needed a 140AMP breaker.

I'd always put a fuse/breaker close to the battery in case the cable rubs or in an accident is damaged and shorts out, very easy to get a fire... and my cable is IN the car!

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Not sure of the gauge size but my sons BWM cable is 10mm thick (12mm over the outer covering). That is standard factory fit for a Beemer.

Sounds like its 2 gauge as my 4 gauge uses 6.7mm hole'd crimps, it is a diesel or petrol? Diesels going to be higher.

Standard battery cables for my VAG 1.8T engine were 4 gauge.

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Another question for you guys, what are your views on fitting a circuit breaker instead of a fuse at the battery end ? If so would 150 amp unit be good, or is it likely to trip everytime the car is started ?

Nothing like another brain teaser to start the day :)

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Definitely fit one and as close to the +ve as possible, if the wire gets broken and shorts to the body work the car will end up toast.

150 Amp sounds about right, I had a 100 Amp one on my V6 and it popped it when I tried to start it.

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think I am going to modify mine. Circuit breaker to replace fuse that is next to the battery, fuse to replace junction box in engine bay. Dragon Queen, where you getting the circuit breaker from ?

Only question is, have kill switch on postive cable, should I switch to negative - advantage of it being on the positive is that it can be switched off from inside the cabin, putting it on the negative means swtiching off requires getting out and going to boot.

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Thanks Limey, the circuit breakers look very neat in my eyes, and cheaper :) .

Waiting for hubby to finish the shopping list for everything and then to order some good weather for a few days, as if :(

They are also far more convenient if you manage to pop it when you don't have a fuse to hand! Not like 150A fuses are commonplace!

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you should use as big a cable as possible for the battery + and -

if you use the same as what is in the car you will end up with voltage drop over the distance you are now passing voltage.

here is a table for example, i havent read the page but the table looks right.

http://www.caraudiohelp.com/car_audio_wiring.html

and the gen 6 is 14.5 feet nose to tail. you should be in the 105-125 range i would have thought so putting you in the min of 2gauge to 0gauge at the length of the car. (4gauge as standard)

but going bigger is always better. not always easier, but better. :)

Edited by cooperman
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Hi digs this is the breaker I was planning on http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/390999688324?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=660364630113&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I know a lot of folk hesitate with sellers from China, maybe hubby is lucky when choosing as always had good service and decent goods. :)

Hubby is planning on routing power feed under the dash with a hidden kill switch, then trailing the cable down the drivers side, if I understand his sketch correctly and then running a continuous earth from boot to bay :unsure:

This is the cable he is looking at, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151381014392?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&var=450559738013&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

he has checked with them that it is all copper cable, as some have a aluminium core with a copper outer layer. From the research hubby has done the ally stuff is generally cheaper but much heavier cable is needed compared to copper.

Someone correct me if I am wrong on any of this please :D

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Cool, Thanks :) similar live route and kill switch to mine (its obvious probably but will tell you where mine by pm if you want).

Any reason he is going back to the bay with the earth ? Would like to hear his thoughts (in a nice way!), earthed mine to the rear seat bolts.

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Hi Digs, I havnt asked him why he is planning to return the earth, am still lagging behind getting my head round half of it as it is lol. Will ask him tomorrow why for you. Re the kill switch location by pm would be better, not that I dont trust the regular crew on here, but you never know who is on the fringes :o

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