CelicaBen190 Posted 29 January 2011 Report Posted 29 January 2011 Ok, got my MTEC discs and Mintex Pads to fit... I have had my wheels off/discs off/calipers off before for cleaning.etc. Just checking there isnt anything else i need to think of when changing discs? Its similar a case of wheel off, caliper off, pads out, disc out, new disc on and vice versa? Anything else?
Boynxdoor Posted 29 January 2011 Report Posted 29 January 2011 yeahhhh.. Just like that since you don't need to change the calipers... watch for the fluid level as it will rise up once you place the new pads... will def. overflow if not monitor properly...
Tr1cksta Posted 29 January 2011 Report Posted 29 January 2011 Ok, got my MTEC discs and Mintex Pads to fit... I have had my wheels off/discs off/calipers off before for cleaning.etc. Just checking there isnt anything else i need to think of when changing discs? Its similar a case of wheel off, caliper off, pads out, disc out, new disc on and vice versa? Anything else? Something to hold the caliper while it's off.. Grease for the pad shims... Meths (or similar) to clean the anti corrosion coating off the discs... Extention pipe or breaker bar for extra leverage in case the caliper bolts are stiff... Could be worth spraying the pad retaining pins & caliper bolts with wd40 an hour or so before you intend on making a start...Should make the removal easier HTH's mate
Boynxdoor Posted 29 January 2011 Report Posted 29 January 2011 yeahh.. that's about perfect but didn't he mentioned it's all off already....
CelicaBen190 Posted 29 January 2011 Author Report Posted 29 January 2011 Copper grease - check Caliper bolts are fine, had them off recently But that does help, cheers mate
samuaw Posted 29 January 2011 Report Posted 29 January 2011 ALSO.. You need to somehow push back the piston before the pads go back in......., SO.. a hardcore screw G clamp C clamp or whatever clamp. With a piece of wood on the piston surface. That of the proper piston pushing tool which i have read about, but never seen.... Or if all fails, a crow bar and somehow to lever to push the piston back. Remembering the fluid cap is to be removed
Tr1cksta Posted 29 January 2011 Report Posted 29 January 2011 (edited) ALSO.. You need to somehow push back the piston before the pads go back in......., SO.. a hardcore screw G clamp C clamp or whatever clamp. With a piece of wood on the piston surface. That of the proper piston pushing tool which i have read about, but never seen.... Or if all fails, a crow bar and somehow to lever to push the piston back. Remembering the fluid cap is to be removed ^^ ahh yes, remember to open the fluid cap & keep an eye on the level when you're pushing the pistons back... I managed to push my pistons back with my palms.....took a bit of force, but managed all 4 just fine Edited 29 January 2011 by Tr1cksta
splinter Posted 29 January 2011 Report Posted 29 January 2011 ^^ ahh yes, remember to open the fluid cap & keep an eye on the level when you're pushing the pistons back...I managed to push my pistons back with my palms.....took a bit of force, but managed all 4 just fine I was over hauling my calipers when i done mine so pumped the peddal to pop out the pistons. worry about bleeding them latter. When it comes to the rear disks, you may need to align the big hole with the six oclock position and turn the catleated nut on the handbreak assemly to release the brake. then when reassembling, pull handbreak up two or three clicks then adjust the castleated nut so they dont turn. Ensure the back plates dont foul on the new thicker disks! mine did!!! rear brake castleated nut hand brake adjustment: new rears: New fronts: I have done it with a full caliper overhaul including pistons and full system flush and bleed. Feel free to PM if you need help.
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