Master flex

Hehehe ... They usually charge for it... well Kev does anyway

I was hoping to get it to its 17th birthday but... The pot holes round here psychologically got the better of me.

Aye. It was a full scorpion system but the rear section and silencer is in my garage. It used to run parallel with the subframe like the Toyota one. Previous owner changed it as it was too quiet, which I have to agree. I like this, its loud initially on choke and has a deep bass to It. It does mellow down when warm but sounds simply lovely above 6200 rpm. Being honest it will most likely need a new rear section soon from the clamp onwards; but will probably look towards another custom one, the sound is a big deal to me. I don't use it during the week so don't have to worry about waking people up and being inconsiderate; which I am grateful for.

I have used a free software tool called paint.net which uses layering image tools like Photoshop. It's works well enough for me to see a change. You can spend hours making it look perfect or 5 minutes changing alloys etc to see if the combination suits.

I can hear your manager now: "If your I'll enough to work on your car your I'll enough to come in work." That's a bloody good idea. I have an old B&D mouse; never thought of that. Cheers!

I wish I could have done the rest in gold; but my wallet had to stand in. And it made sence to get it done whilst the subframe was removed. Could always paint some tin foil

AMS resolved this. My god damn new flip key conversion was putting the transponder in a location that would not disable the immobilizer.

Is it a noise related issue ? Possible video upload; but I remember trying to capture my old chatty 140 engine and trying to transfer the noise over in video format was difficult. Other than checking belts / chains tensioners and pulleys, do you mean taking the top end off and looking over it ?

O.K... ready for this. But the end result is fantastic. I hope you all like: I owe a thanks to Ams for the camber arms which came up great in gold . You saved potentially a lot of money with bushes.

That sounds very similar. Just keeps turning, however after leaving it a while it did. It's almost like it let's you get to your destination from cold, then won't start until it's cold again.

There are 2 on my model (VVTL-i 190) The bottom one stops flashing once the remote locking opens the doors. The upper one (with the security wording) continues to flash red and continues to do so whilst trying to start the car. Hope this helps aja.

Bit of an update on this. Car starts fine then once you get out and try to start it again; it will not start. It ticks over fine but will not start up. Has done this for the last 3 days now; after leaving it 30 minutes it started O.K (battery reading 13.4V) Jump forward to today and it just about started after I left it an hour and it only just about started. Luckily it was already at the garage going in for the subframe replacement. This has got me completely; the battery is fine, but it could have something to do with the immobilizer. I recently had my keys cut and when it did start; it was using my original blade in the ignition. I think I live in hope on the above as the mechanics are thinking it's crankshaft sensor... complete curve ball. We will soon see.

Removed the old whip antenna and put a little stinger on. After spraying it gold, of course.

The dream is you want this cake. The reality is that you will end up with mr caterpillar!

Hi Kev; Can't see anything relating to either. Just snapped this:

The subframe was circa £180 including VAT brand and was a genuine new Toyota one. This was a new rate negotiated by TCB for club members . The petrol filler neck was about £30-40 ish. (A second hand unit but pretty much new) current one is O.K but o have heard of these starting to go. Overall it was £233 for the lot posted. Boot carpet was a cheapie off eBay for £20 as I'm just not a fan of the grey. Here she is, ready for next week:

Yea gen 7 mate (190). The guy before fitted the 021. But when I went to look for a replacement it was 50/50 what search engines said compatable/ not compatable. I just whacked it on for another 2 hours and it started better than it ever has before. I had it out separated from the car so thought worst i could do is overcharge ot; of ita gone its gone anyway. So it looks like the gauge on the charger isn't much use. Multimeter ordered.

Yea that's a stupid choice. Why don't you swap it in for a brand new '19 AUDI S3. They look bland as **** and will cost you £400 a month PCP. It even comes with a mythical German never break down warranty. That'll show them Jones' . Take great pride in the fact that millenials / Gen Y's said that. That means in the real world it looks spot on

Thinks it's cabbaged. Had it on for 3 hours on a 20 Amp cycle. Everything worked fine but just about wouldn't start over. During charge the chargers internal ammeter shows the battery fully charged but once taken off and it's measuring the battery it's dropping to 50% and doesn't seem to increase. I imagine dead cell. Have found a replacement Bosch S4 021 battery new for £50 so it's not the end of the world I suppose.

Changed the old keys over. £3 per blade wasn't too bad.

Damn. I thought 24 hours would have been long enough for you to forget...

It is a cracking system mind you. Do they own the patent to them ?

Got the subframe today (and filler neck) courtesy of Paul @ TCB performance Crazy, I will make it look fabulous, just for you

I was planning to do that but seen a horror story on here of one that could have potentially set on fire. Ironically, as you mentioned, light from it was so weak I might have well not bothered with it. You'll be pleased to hear I didn't burn my dome! I'll be looking for a interior LED now...

I need my man in shining armour to save me; would you pull over to help me in distress if you were driving past, Kev ? Never had another car do anything as crazy as this when the battery has gone before.