Dorris
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Posts posted by Dorris
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Ive a few of these on my Toyotas, my Hiace van and one of our Avensis has a silver sticker. The Avensis was only 70k away from the gold when the misses decided to chop it in for a new one. My Avensis has a bronze and the CS is only 4k away from a bronze too.
I got mine through the Toyota UK face book page.
I have heard of a Hiace van up in Scotland with over a million on the clock.
Dorris
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Glad you got to the bottom of it, as you say so much water and with that comes grit then add in they never put enough grease in them from fitting can cause premature wear in the bearing races and corrosion which is what you are hearing. Dorris
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Drive shafts/CV joints tend to knock under load, wheel bearing tend to groan when you load them up. If the pitch of the whine doesn't change with gear changes and is definitely speed related then you are going to be looking at from the diff to the road. Diffs can whine (what condition is the gear box/diff oil?) and some tyres will whine especially if they get old or incorrect pressures. Just something there to go on, the fact it passed an MOT its shouldn't be a concern, more annoyance! Dorris
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On 14/11/2019 at 13:01, _Chris_ said:
I heard of this in Diesel engines to help lubricate the pump & injectors, bearing in mind modern clean burning fuels tend to be less lubricating.
I have done it myself in a rattly high milage clio diesel which became much less rattly as a result, so I wouldn't hesitate to do it again on engines that seem to benefit.
Diesels have a very different type of fuel pump and injector though, running at much much higher pressures and built to much closer tolerances. I'm really not sure that petrol engines would warrent this.
As far as octane goes, engine oil certainly makes engines MORE prone to detonation. 2 stroke oil, I have no idea but I wouldn't expect to make it better.
This was something we seriously considered back in 2000 for our Aircraft fire tenders with the fuel blockades and shortages that were going at the time. We had an abundances of AVTUR (aviation jet fuel) but it has no lubrication properties like diesel so a 10% mix of 2 stroke oil and AVTUR was purposed so we could keep them running if push come to shove. As it happened, it was all over before our diesel tanks ran dry. Dorris
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On 18/09/2019 at 07:11, slybunda said:
No not redex.
After reading up and watching some youtube vids it looks like adding 2 stroke oil to the petrol tank is very common for mazda rotary users like rx7 rx8 etc.
Mazda rotary play by a completely different set of engineering rules and are known for being as reliable as the British weather so running a bit of 2T oil to lube the Apex seals makes sense. The Norton Rotory ran a total loss system where the oil was passed through the crank and inner piston before injected into the fuel but not so with the Mazda.
The notion of putting 2T oil in a four stroke fuel has been around since time in memorial and to be fair most of it is pub talk, old wives tails, etc. Ive been building engines and around the race scene for over 30 years in both 2 strokes and 4 strokes and have never come across anyone doing this on the race scene nor found any benefits either. If there is its not to help lubrication, as there is nothing to lube within the induction, compression or exhaust of a 4 stroke cycle so it can only be maybe to help stabilise the burn in someway, if it is, there are much better ways.
The other option is he could mean engine oil, in the past a 2 stroke engine gear boxes by there nature would run a thinner oil then 4 stroke engines of the time but now a days oil technology is much more advances with some oils reaching almost zero viscosity.
Or maybe the guy was just pulling your leg? who knows!
Dorris
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Hi all, im in the market for a new car cover for the GT4.
Ive currently got a Halfords Large cover thats a few years old, it fits ok but its leaving the car covered in white dust from the lining.
Im looking for fit and durability, and im not worried about using a seperate inner dust cover then an outer weather proof cover if i have too.
Anyone got any recommendations?
Thanks in advance, Dorris
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I’m planning on another set of wheels with snow tyres and hope we get lots of the white stuff
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It could of been worse, you could of blindly bought a lemon of a GT4 instead which would of owed you 10 times as much
Dorris
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Just for your own piece of mind and information use the DB readers that you can get on smart phones, they are quite accurate we use them for racing. The rules on how to take DB reading is on the net somewhere would be interesting to see what it is. Dorris
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I found all my gen 5 GTIs to be flat throughout the rev range with the cat removed so left in place, I just ran a good panel filter and kept it well serviced and they used to fly. Dorris
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I actually found my 182 ran better with the cat in place, and noticeably better too. Dorris
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12 hours ago, pappy_77 said:
R.E contradiction, thats kind of what I was getting at. Mot's are supposed to be unambiguous, but you can argue the toss either way on some points. Best way is to find a sympathetic tester who is happy to view things your way because if they want to fail it for no seat belts they can.
Somethings you can ie imported vehicles v cat issues but not seat belts, its a clear cut instant failure. You will be hard pushed to find a tester who is willing to put their job on the line for turning a blind eye to no seat belts. D
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11 hours ago, pappy_77 said:
I too am of the opinion that a non cat test is appropriate. Finding an Mot tester who will listen too your argument is a different story. Although the engine code is the same as a uk spec model, the ECU map will be different to run on higher octane Jap fuel. This means it wont be found on the database. Mot testers aren't supposed to have an opinion, they follow the flow diagrams as shown above. Some also don't like being told they are wrong. Talk to some different testing stations and see what they say before you book.
You've hit the nail on the head, the key here is to find a MOT tester that knows his stuff and will test it as an import, like you say most will just look at the year on the number plate and will say it needs a cat. Dorris
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As said previously it all comes down to the age and type of vehicle and a Celica Gen7 is not exempt under any of these rules.
Under section 5.1 of the MOT inspection manual for class 3, 4, 5 & 7.
Reasons for rejection.
A statutory seat belt:
* missing
* of the wrong type.So unless you take out the seats, not having belts on a vehicle of this age and type its a failure, only this year I failed a HGV for not having lap belt fitted to a center seat. Dorris
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This sort of millage is nothing to be concerned about especially being a Toyota, 100k its just starting to run in properly lol Dorris
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I think its horses for courses and what you prefer, like anything I guess you get what you pay for, I'm running a momo jet, wasn't going to pay £200 for it though but one turned up on ebay for £48 and I then got a NRG quick release boss for £20 so there are bargains to be had if you're willing to wait. Dorris
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As the others have said 103mn Dorris
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Loctite thread lock literally only needs one drop at the start of the tread and will spread as you assemble the components and sets by the lack of oxygen, full strength is normally obtained after an hour of assembly. Dorris
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PM sent. Dorris
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Look forward to hearing your out come and experience, suspension settings is not something we here much about with in the club and now with more trick suspension becoming more affordable its becoming more popular. Maybe a Sticky on suspension set up would be a good idea? Dorris
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If you don't have a sag figure then its going to be a case of trail and error, it all comes down to what sort of ride you are after, the best way is probably set the springs soft to give your self a soft ride and then set your ride height to give you the ground clearance. Damping will be something you initially set then adjust as time goes by to what feels right, if the car feels like its bouncing then the damping needs stiffening up, maybe start off with around 15 clicks in on the front around 13 clicks in on the back and go from there.
Suspension can be a bit of a dark art and confusing if you're not used to it but try not to over think it. Set it go for an initial drive to make sure nothing obvious is wrong then try it for a few days and get a feel for what its doing then maybe readjust if necessary. You might find it feels like its wallowing around or could be too harsh feeling every bump in the road, you could even have an issue of it bottoming out or tyres rubbing on the arches but wont know until you try it.
If you can find some else that is running the same suspension that is working for them then ask them for some setting and go from there. Dorris
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There can be up to four adjustments with suspension and its important to know exactly what each one does.
Preload,
Ride Height,
Compression damping,
Rebound damping,
Preload, takes the weight of the vehicle and load this is the adjustment of the spring by either adjusting the collars or by changing the weight of the spring, although this will effect the height of the vehicle off the ground it is more important to set the sage of the spring when you load it up, ie how much the spring will compress when you drop the car on to its wheels.
Ride height is the physical height of the vehicle from the ground regardless of what the preload is set at and is normally set by lengthening or shortening the physical length of the shock its self.
Damping is what controls the speed shock absorber moves, more fancier shocks will have independent adjusters for both compression and rebound but most will have a combined adjuster that does both depending on what ratio the manufacture decides is best for there product. These are normally set by a small screw the clicks as you turn it in and out, the more turns in the more damping you get.
First off measure and adjust your sag with the preload adjusters on the spring, then set your ride height and then set your damping but make sure you make notes what measurements you use so as you can go back if you fine tune your suspension.
The other option would be just get some measurements off someone else who as already set there car up.
Dorris
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Sounds more like to me your starter is stuck and is draining everything to try and spin it over, what state is the battery in? Dorris
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I concur Alloy wheel nuts should be banned! After 30+ years in the trade I've never seen a set last and plenty fail, along with alloy bango bolts too!
Its totally fine to use steel wheel nuts with alloy wheels as long as they are the correct size and shape, add a smear of copper grease to the thread and torque to 103MN 76lb ft and you will be fine. Dorris
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E10 Petrol september 2021!!!
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
I've just run my first full tank on the new E10 fuel in the CS.
I ran it right down then put £20 in just in case i needed to drain it down and had no problems with it, so when that ran down I went for a full tank.
Not only has it not had any running issues but if anything it feels better.
Like Chris says, some of us have been running 5% ethanol for 30 years plus so if ethanol is going to cause any degradation it would of done it by now, though I suspect those cars on the incompatible list may have specific component effected by ethanol and would more then likely increase the speed of deterioration with the 5% extra. Also if a manufacture puts a blanket time limit on its vehicles then they wont be open to legal action if something goes wrong, you only have to look at the diesel emission fiasco, if there is chance of free money people will jump at it.
In time it will be interesting to compare mpg, but right now after my first tank I've not noticed any difference. Dorris