_Chris_

Thanks for the link. Very helpful but sadly the wheel is beyond repair.

Are they based in N wales ? Unfortunately I can't get mail order to a holiday park.

Posted in General chat as it's more likely to be seen. I'm away in North Wales for the rest of the week after the Celica event over the weekend. I hit a big pothole yesterday which has buckled a wheel badly. The only spare I have is the standard skinny tyre which is a different diameter to the others by quite a bit. The size currently on is 215/40 - 17 so looking for a pair with similar diameter or a whole set. If anyone in the area has any wheels to sell or lend please drop me a PM.

If your driving is fairly consistent then it's worth trying a tankful of each. In Theory E5 will have slightly more calorific value than E10 (about 2%) plus a higher RON which allows slightly more ignition advance and hence more power/ecconomy but only on cars mapped for higher RON (JDM imports) in parts of the map where 95RON will cause knock retard - usually full throttle lower RPM. Against this, E10 will run slightly weaker on open loop parts of the map (high throttle) which should increase ecconomy slightly. I was always under the impression that tesco 99 gained the extra RON from Ethanol while Vpower was pure petrol, but this is only rumour. Personally, I've never noticed any differences between any fuels. Driving technique and road conditions make far more difference than the fuel.

So a gen 7 ?

What model / year ? Does the noise happen as you turn the steering (even stopped) ? OR is it as continuous as you go along with the steering to the right ? Power steering usually has an idle up valve which lets a bit more air through while the steering is under load.

6 years ago.

I had to change insurer last Autumn as REIS stopped doing their multicar policies and reverted back to their core competition car policies. I looked at a few and ended up with Flux who came up with a reasonable price overall for everyday car, camper and a few Celicas.

I'm happy for anything of mine to go on there.

Pump is quite common, either shaft seal or the idle up valve in the bottom of it which plums to a couple of vac lines from above. Pipework not unknown, especially if it's gone rusty. Also possible for steering rack seals, either the shaft seal where the steering column comes in OR the seals in the ends which then fill up the gaiters on the steering arms. Latter is probably most likely if it's going on driveshafts - easy to check by undoing the clip at the larger end and see if a load of fluid pours out.

Awesome views on Dartmoor this week

Quick getaway.

Just stumbled on this old photo of me popping out for a snack. This car's next for restoration when I've finished the current 205WRC project.

Just stumbled on this.

Interesting. Looks like it's a single PCB rather than the split PCB of the previous generations. Presumably possible due to the change to entirely surface mount. I can see 3 electrolytics at the top, 2 of which are in paralell and also in paralell with what looks like a 10uF ceramic so I would guess resevoir capacitors on a supply rail. The earlier ones didn't have the paralell ceramic on the 10uF capacitors which I suspect is the reason these were the first to fail. The 2 main things that kill electrolytics are heat and high frequency ripple. There are also a couple just visible at the bottom but unable to see any tracks that might indicate their function.

I'd be interested to see the inside of a G7 ECU if someone can post up piccies. I'm expecting fewer electrolytics, modern designs tend to use far less.

Reis have quoted for the competion car, going back to a single car policy which is where I started with them so I'll probably go for that. They have been very good until this renewal which wasn't their fault. Ended up going for flux for the remainder as the price was reasonable. Total price was £1321 for campervan, GT4, SS1 and Clio. The Clio was done on a separate policy via Aviva because of the higher milage requested of 20000, the other 3 on a multicar policy with a specialist insurer.

Thanks, I just googled greenlight insurance and there were several.

My current insurer, Reis motorsports, have just had their underwriter pull out of multicar policies leaving them unable to offer renewal which is due in just under 2 weeks. They are able to renew my competition car, Ezzy, as a single car policy again so I'll at least have 1 car available for transport although it won't be covered for business use. I;m now looking for another insurer for 3 more celicas, a clio and a transit van camper conversion. Any recommendations other than the obvious ones like Flux ? Does anyone remember greenlight and where they were based ? I can't find their corp forum in either current or lapsed.

Check it's the cable not the mechanism seized. Only suggestion us to soak in penetrating oil.

I don't think polymer give a massive longer lifespan especially at higher temperatures. They do tend to have a lower ESR which may be a benefit for some, especially the 10uF which are usually the first to go and I suspect the reason being high ripple current as they don't have a paralell ceramic capacitor. For smaller values like the 10uF, ceramic capacitors are now available in a usable size and should offer much longer lifespan and lower ESR. I have had a report that these caused a problem in an ECU though I've used them in others with no issue. In theory, tantalum should offer a better lifespan for the larger values however they are much less robust as far as over-voltage surges and explode when subjected to them. On newer exu's, be aware that gen6 uses a 4 layer PCB and the inner power planes appear not to have thermal breaks. This makes it much harder to melt solder all the way through to remove / refit components and damage to the through plating cannot easily be repaired with links as the tracks are impossible to trace. This means there is a finite risk to changing the capacitors which could desroy an otherwise perfectly working ECU. I would be surprised if the gen7 ECU wasn't also a 4+ layer PCB.

As above, I concluded long ago that colour means nothing and you need to check the listed chemical composition. I've seen inside engines run on the Toyota forlife (red and the correct one to use) and I've seen inside engines run on other antifreezes. I only use the genuine Toyota stuff, preferably premixed. This is available from TCB. Dealers only seem to have the conc. stuff which works out more expensive once you've bought demin./distilled water to go with it.

In case you don't realise, make sure they go the right way round, assuming you've bought electorlytics like the originals. The gunk is conductive as well as corrosive, and it's possible that was causing the issues rather than broken tracks. If it's thoroughly cleaned with a solvent such as IPA or thinners then it's worth sparing with laquer, or preferably cobformal coating (HPA or APL).

Bearing in mind the newest cars with this format OBD1 are 25 years old now I really don't see enough market to be worth developing at this stage. Saying that, there wouldn't be much effort needed to decode the data stream and output on USB to a laptop if there's enough interest. If this device is still available it would probably be the cheapest & easiest option.

Just dug through the archives and found the following info on OBD1 https://www.toymods.org.au/forums/threads/8764-OBD-Serial-Data h47.pdf h48.pdf toyota_obd1.pdf toyota_obd1_ver2.pdf