stevenc1603
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Posts posted by stevenc1603
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I've had a set of winter tires on the Mondeo for the last 3 years. I don't have a spare set of wheels so I have to pay to get them swapped each time, although I normally end up replacing 2 of the summer tyres at the same time the spring so its taken the sting out of it a little.
We haven't had really bad weather since I've had them, but there have been a couple of times when others have failed to get up the hill out of our street and I've managed it no problem.
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I would say yes it does make it invalid as the vehicle would not be roadworthy. If you were to have a crash and the police were investigating it, you can be guaranteed if they found something suspect it would be reported to the insurance as well as the driver getting the apporpriate penalty.
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I don't think you need the old cert nowadays as its all on the computer. I know that because I MOT'd a van I was selling 4 months early and the tester called me to check I knew I would loose the original expiry date as it was too soon to test it again.
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In order for you to be hitting the bump stops you would effectively have to be compressing the suspension to its full travel. Unless you are weighing the car down severely or the springs are knackered this would be fairly unusual in normal driving. My guess would be some other bushes are the problem, or potential the strut top mounts.
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IIRC, its illegal to drive without bumpers on. Something to do with the construction and use regs I think but not something I have ever seen done for years.
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Me and a few other members did a european trip over to Italy and back. Was a great drive and no bother.
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I was thinking it might have separate supply and ground for the sensor as well as the illumination.
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Hmm, not sure really. Do you know what make they are and have you tried hunting for a manual for them?
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You can technically do without the balance but why would you.
I have a mate who doesn't get new tyres balanced or new valves fitted. For the cost of them I always do as I couldn't be arsed with the hassle if I drove away and the balance was off or a valve ended up going.
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A lot of less honest garages "sell" basic alignment as laser alignment because the units use a laser to project the line onto the marker plates that hang on the rear wheels. This just aligns each front wheel to the rear wheel so if the rear wheel(s) are out then the front will never be right.
Full laser alignment is done as per the pic above, each wheel has independant sensors that are checked by a rig at the front of the ramp. Usually cost more as the kit is more expensive but its the best way to have it done.
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Think I hit 10 years in October. Had a Celica for almost 9 of them. Started with a Gen 6 GT for just over 4 years, then a Gen 6 GT4 for just under 5.
Would love another but can't afford it just now
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I would think you'll have 3, maybe 4 wires on the oil pressure guage and 2 or 3 on the boot one.
The ones I had (years ago) were:
Red - +12v - Take from cig lighter or wire in a proper fused supply. Make sure its only live when the ignition is switched on.
Black - Ground - Again tap the cig lighter, or a decent bit of metalwork that's part of the chassis and is clean to bare metal.
Orange - Illumination - I wired mine to the illumination wire on the stereo. It goes live when the lights are on but if you want them on all the time you need to wire to a switched live (same as red).
Green - Signal from sender. (Oil only as boost will be an air tube)
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Yup, normally a really thin screw driver or paperclip will do it
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OK, I assume yours is a UK car, so you have the proper rear fog switch in the drivers side vent panel?
If so, this is what I would do:
Firstly, buy one of these: http://www.freakyparts.co.uk/epages/es120337.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/es120337_es124285571161/Products/Fog_Kit_01/SubProducts/fog_kit_01-0001
Yes its £15 but it save hassle, so I think its worth it.
Now you need to be capable of cutting the correct wires in the cluster looms and joining the wires of the item above to it.
If done correctly this will give you 5 brake lights when the fogs are off, or 3 brake lights and 2 fog lights when the fogs are on.
Remember when doing this, you want to keep the device and most of the wiring inside the car, not behind the cluster. This means you need to pass a couple of wires through to the driver side cluster and one to the passenger side one. When I did mine I just carefully popped them through the same hole as the cluster looms go through and made sure they weren't damaged in the process.
You'll need to unwrap the insulation tape from the cluster looms. We will start with the drivers side cluster only just now, leave the passenger side one until the end!
If you look at the wires you should find a green wire with a white stripe on it. This is the brake light feed. This wire should go to 2 bulbs in the cluster. You need to snip the wire that goes to the inner one (nearest the number plate) of the 2 bulbs. Snip it with enough length attached to the bulb holder so that you can put a connector on it.
If you look at the little device you have purchased you will see it has 3 wires on it. The instructions will tell you which wire is which but looking at the picture, I would say the blue wire is the output. You need to connect this wire to the wire we just cut, connecting to the end that attaches to the bulb holder.
Read the instructions and find out which wire on the device is for the brake feed. Connect this to the other end of the wire we just snipped.
Now we need to sort out the fog connection. If you remove the rear inner boot plastic you should see the connecting plugs where the looms from the car join to the cluster looms. Look in this for a red wire. This is the fog light feed.
You'll need to snip this wire and join it to the last wire on the device.
Before we connect up the passenger side loom, go ahead and test. Brakes should have both brake bulbs come on, fog, only the inner one.
If that's all working we need to sort the passenger side. Again unwrap the cluster loom to expose the wires. Find the green/white wire that connects to the inner bulb. Snip this wire, however this time, the end that connects to the loom just needs to be insulated with a bit of tape and can them be wrapped back up. From the end that connects to the bulb holder, connect up a bit of wire and join this to the blue wire from the device. This will mean the output of the device is sent to both inner bulbs. Wrap the loom back up and install the cluster, tidy up and jobs done.
Hope that helps.
Just for reference, the wiring in the cluster looms should be:
Ground - white/black
Brake - green/white
Reverse - red/white
LH Indicator - green/black
RH Indicator - green/yellow
Fog - red
Tail - Green
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ah the old stilson wrench. Proper good with stuck bolts but they are usually too large to get in where you need them most.
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If they are both backward, swapping them over should correct them I would think. Whether its worth it or not is questionable.
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When I had my previous Celica's they went out in all weather.
The GT4 was truely awesome though. I managed to drive it up a single carriageway track to the car park on top of a local hill which was a good 8-10" deep in snow. That was using general purpose Goodyear Eagle F1's.
Now I have the Mondeo and after the major snow of last year I bought a set of winter tyres that I ran from November until mid Feb when the weather started warming up to over 7 degrees. Unfortunately I don't have a 2nd set of wheels so I have to transfer the tyres over but it works OK. I found the winter tyres gave good performance in the low temperatures, even though they only saw 1 day of very light snow the whole time they were on.
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getting good MPG (IMHO) is about getting the correct balance of speed and gear.
30 MPH in 5th is fine, until you hit an incline and the engine starts to bog down. Then you have to tromp on the throttle to maintain speed, or even downshift if the incline is enough to stall the engine.
The car I drive just now has a trip computer that shows a calculated instant MPG. It is almost always constantly changing, even on cruise control as the engine will open or close the throttle enough to keep the speed constant. This means the MPG goes up and down all the time.
I've never actually tried to work out where the best MPG speed is though.
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Happy Tenth Anniversary Bob
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Give John at Turboplates.com a shout. He is one of our corporate members who makes plates to any shape/size/design you want
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MDF panel with a stiffening bit that sits in the hole?
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Aye, Happy Birthday to CCUK and all who have been with her for the last 10 years. Heres to many more in the future!
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I was going to say, looks like it had vent rings fitted in the past. Would a better solution not be to get hold of some of these to fit and therefore cover the glue, or is that not an option?
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I think the common school of thought is to have the best grip at the rear as most people don't know how to deal with a rear end slide. Having the front end slide, most times unless you are going at silly speeds can usually be controlled by just lifting off the throttle.
I tend to keep the best tyres on the rear and when the fronts need replacing, move the rears to the front and put the new ones on the back again. Generally this means you're only replacing 2 tyres at one time as the fronts tend to wear faster than the rears.
Rust to Rome - Team Go Nads!
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
Great cause and a great journey.
Back in 2007 I took my Gen6 GT4 from just north of Edin to Palma in northern Italy (picking up a few other members on route) for the Pan Euro Celica Meet so its well possible in Celica so long as its in good repair. I took along things like spare fan belts etc just in case but you could always make sure all that is in decent order before you head off. Check the timing belt isn't needing doing etc.