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InsolentMinx

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Everything posted by InsolentMinx

  1. That'd be great, I'd definitely be interested... but won't be able to do it at this moment in time. cheapest I've been able to find so far is £45 per wheel in Kent, and as I live in East London, I'd prefer London purely for convenience.
  2. where is that at £35 per wheel? Is that just sanding down and respraying, or a full factory refurb with acid dipping, etc? But yeah, the most I've seen is £70 per wheel for a full factory refurb (acid dip, etc) from a Jaguar dealership. No idea where £500 comes from unless each wheel is buckled
  3. weird, but it seems that's down to the supplier of that item and the delivery company. You're always at the mercy of the courier. I ordered from them twice, and believe on both ocassions the bumper was delivered to RTP within a couple of days. Email or call them and ask which suppliers are reliable and what they have on hand. They might even be able to get you better quality kits not listed on their website.
  4. i used madmotors they've got quite a wide range available, but some require importing before they can be sent to you i'm pretty sure it's only replica bodykits too, as far as I'm aware. Plus some are pretty dodgy quality going by reviews for the individial manufacturers but delivery was pretty darn quick
  5. it's quite simple " : thumbs : " (without the speechmarks or spaces)
  6. they do looks good, but I'm not sure how the car would feel riding on bags if you want to go for a spirited drive through some twisties....
  7. that's ok the subtle changes are usually the best ones. There's no need to go 'all out' to make a well looked after car stand out from the crowd chips on the rims? I usually get a touch-up pen from Halfords. Their 'aluminium' is quite a close match for most silver wheels.
  8. the problem is, there's too much choice
  9. i was saying that LikwidArt prob wouldn't be ideal for a wheel centrecap I've had 2 of their T-Sport badges though... And these are the first items I got from Slugster (apologies for slghtly blurry)
  10. LiwkidArt do do a very nice T-Sport badge which would match the infill... but it's £15, so not cheap.
  11. what's the rear decal? the T-Sport logo?
  12. his ID on here is Slugster. Believe his company is 121 signs?
  13. I want whatever you're having... Well if you want a black/blue theme, your best bed for a badgey badge replacement would be to rub the OEM badge down (with sandpaper) then paint it black, then ask Mook to make you a T-Sport logo which you can stick on the black badge, and then go over with a few coats of clearcoat. It'll look very nice. Alternatively Slugster could make you a centrecap badge with a black background, blue T-Sport logo, and then it'll all look lovely with a nice clear resin dome over the top to protect it from the elements
  14. Have you seen LikwidArt? It's a raised, slightly squishy, shiny gel. the different parts are curved, so I'm pretty sure it'll look crap if you clearcoat it. The clearcoat would collect in the grooves... Mooks vinyl decals are just flat vinyl graphics a fraction of a milimeter tall, thus very easy to clearcoat over Slugster makes raised domed stickers. a bit like LikwidArt, but it's a clear resin dome over a printed graphic, so it has depth and weatherproofed-ness while looking like (well, it actually is) a top quality professional raised decal look at their individual corporate pages to see what their work looks like
  15. pretty sure you pop them off from behind, although you may be able to prise them off with a small flathead screwdriver... never tried. options: 1. spray the cap a solid colour and get Mook to make you up blue/black decals which you can stick on then clearcoat over 2. spray the cap a solid colour and Likwidart might be able to make you a small blue/black t-sport logo to stick on. You won't really be able to clearcoat over it for protection though. 3. get Slugster to make you up a domed sticker of your colour choice and design to perfectly fit the centrecap.
  16. interesting could that be used to fix a mounting bracket that's snapped?
  17. bloody hell. Looks like they played 'catch' with it and they can't catch.
  18. that blue is gorgeous Sadlebag!! (I always read it with 2 d's too!)
  19. a little something shiny from Likwidart for my currently debadged Yaris Top notch communication and next day delivery from Rob Can't wait to get it stuck on... (although car desperately needs a clean first)
  20. the front plate is supposed to have a bracket so it can sit flat while the bracket follows the curves. On my T-Sport the brakcet was removed and plate just screwed in with a self-tapper at each end so it follows the curve. No probs there... I think side-mounted plates look pretty lame on the celica to be honest rear plate was a 12x6 import stuck on with adhesive strips i think.... or might have been the 2 standard screws.
  21. lowered 40mm and on 19s, i bet it drives like shit...
  22. I can't remember if you need to remove the actual doorcard to unplug the electrics for the mirror. open door use flatblade screwdriver to pop off the small black triangle of plastic hiding bolts for mirror undo the screws see if possible to unplug wingmirror wires from here if so, unplug remove wingmirror reverse procedure. do the above and see if you can unplug the mirror this way. if not, you'll also need to remove the doorcard: pop the 2 circular plastic discs off close to the hinge, 10mm socket or screwdriver to undo the screws use flatblade screwdriver to pop the plastic off inside the inside door handle. undo phillips screw there undo screw underneath bulge in middle of doorcard undo 2 screws at bottom of door card doocard wriggles up and slots out of the window channel. you should be able to see where the mirror plugs in
  23. that stickerfix looks awesome... like a touchup pen in a 'patch'!
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