ams

why not measure one on your car

i dont have one to hand to measure dont normally need to replace all of them - very rare for more than 1 to go unless something has gone wrong. toyota did use to say there were 3 types but I dont know the differences

mr t used to charge £1.50 a stud - but that must be at least 10 years since i bought one. I sell used ones for £1.50 each plus post rotate the hub so the broken one is at 3 oclock - if you look on the back of the flange you will see a dip in the shield behind the flange to allow the head to go past - will then be able to whack it out. Put new one in - tap it as much as you can and then put a nut on and tighten up so that it pulls it through - check it on the back to make sure its all the way in

It can be quite an effort to stop it going up and also a bit of a pull too get it down again, I wouldn't recommend it as you almost end up twisting the tailgate to get it down a set of half worn spoiler struts usally work well on non spoiler cars.

have fitted the SGS ones before and they are ok the prices from mr -t can vary hugely between dealers

there was a model that did fit - but its been a few years so that model may no longer be made as regs have changed have a search

A looked after celica very rarely fails on anything serious The only ones that do tend to be badly oil burning 140s on emissions (when I say bad i mean pouring out smoke). Now rotten subframes, tanks and filler pipes are the big ones - but its not all of them (mine is W reg, 271000 miles and all are solid) and I have never done anything to clean / protect it underneath and have even been known to go 10,000 miles between washes (through winter). Over the years have seen plenty of cars come in with long lists of failures that when they have been retested have not been failures at all. I have also seen cars come in (from elsewhere) with a years MOT with serious failures (one had no handbrake, no fog light, headlights that had virtually no output and suspension that was knocking its arse off on both sides as well as several other issues.)

does your amplifier not have a blue remote line/wire on it anyway?

Your diagram looks wrong as the relay is not earthed Here is how I wire in relays and have done for years Permanent live > Fuse > 30 Earth (negative) 85 Ignition based live > fuse > Switch > 86 (You can change this so that its permanent live, or remove the switch so that it comes on wiith igntion) Output to accessory > 87 87A is not needed in most setups What is that you are trying to run through the relay? And how do you want it to come on?

some pads can come with too much paint on, making them tight in the carrier, EBC are bad for it

usually its sliders not moving freely or pads not moving freely in carrier that cause the inside to wear like that

worn shock absorber will cause a tyre to wear out quicker But if its not that then the passenger side wheel is the one that gets traction, whilst the drivers one does nothing when you are in a slip condition. IE if you are spinning the wheels - the passenger one will spin and have power whilst the drivers one wont because of the Diff

The build quality and component quality on the European built toyotas is a world apart from the Jap built Cars. There are so many components on the 7 that never fail. But on the Euro built ones those same components fail regularly. The japs use denso which originally was part of toyota , the euros use Bosch / Valeo. Things like fans, window regulators door actuators just don't fail on the Jap cars but they fail on every Euro built car. Even gearboxes - the Euro's all fail at about 100-150,000. The Gen7 ones I can't give away apart from the 190 ones when they are abused and that's usually crashed synchros rather than proper failures like the Euro ones.

I agree BUT Toyota have been very reluctant with diesels. Until about 2000 most of the car diesels were Peugeot units (which were actually very good back then) With Lexus, they always said they didnt want to put a diesel engine in until they were happy with it, they eventually did and then they saw a big boost in sales BUT they dropped diesels quite quickly again because although they were reliable they couldnt match the 300,000 mile reliability of the petrol engines. The word is that they will return to the coupe market with a hybrid, My next newish car purchase im planning on is an rc300h unless they bring back the celica badge (silly I know)

Also around the late 90s / early 00s, people started taking more of an interest in MPG and you started seeing it printed at the bottom of adverts, the rise and popularity of the diesel also coincided with this. My mate who runs a petrol station used to sell less than 10% diesel around 20 years ago (when I worked on his till) - now its over 50%. The 6 and 7 at there time of release were a sort of half way house (with the exception of the gt4) - not huge performance or huge MPG so perhaps a limited market

With the US, Id imagine a lot of it do with tax. Sometime in that time line, car manufacturers (and buyers) clocked on to the fact that SUVs could be classed as business vehicles and 100% written off as tax on purchase - which led to a huge rise in popularity of SUVs around the same time of the decline shown above. For UK figures try howmanyleft - im sure they have some figures on there of the original registrations - may not go back as far as the 5.

only time ive seen this was a faulty temperature sensor but that was with the stock ECU, with it working ok with the standard ECU, id go for the apexi first im afraid.Or try the apexi in someone elses car to be 100%

Did the problems start after you changed the clutch?

I would start with fixing the issues you are having, rather than taking the engine out. I see cars too often where people go down a route of trying to fix something and end up causing more issues and then it becomes a bigger job that no one wants to touch. I bought a gen5 a couple of years back that was a non runner, previous owner had done multiple things to try and fix it, but ended up causing more problems. Fixed the actual original problem quite quickly but am now trying to figure out what else he has touched and have found 5 things that he had put wrong when trying to find the actual issue but still not got to the bottom of what else he has played with.

it goes to the air box normally the pipes look wrong - i need to check but think the valve is wrong way round

birmingham

inlet manifold should have been swapped over as corolla one wont fit properly cap sounds like corolla one

Dont think repair manual will help with your issue. Had a customer who took there car to toyota a few months back with a few issues, they recommended ECU so he called me up, I told him its not ECU but toyota insisted it was, he bought one and it didnt fix the problem, then they said it was loom, told him not likely but he bought one didnt fix the issue. Anyway after 4 weeks of Toyota having the car, I spoke to him on the phone for half an hour and the next day the car was fixed. Really needs going over properly as something probably isnt right from when the engines been swapped. The secondary air pump - if thats having issues it puts a large load on the battery - when they go bad they normally draw too much load and blow the fuse. Need to test the pump first and then check the valve from the manifold, and also check the vac pipes. But it might not be related to your issue. But given that the air injection only comes on when the car is cold it does kind of make sense...

if its been fitted properly - the bits that are different should have been swapped over (inlet manifold, water pipe on front and a couple of other things) Oil cap on the corolla is a round one (like a Facelift 140) rather than a knobly one as well but that could have been swapped over as well

fault wont be related to 420 which is cat but you mention secondary air - which is another code - can you check the code again please? Im guessing a vac pipe or air pump would be good place to start