ams

but usually its the unmodified ones that fetch top money Assuming you pay £500 a year for barn storage, still cant see you recouping the storage costs in 10 years. Gen4s can still be picked up for a few grand.

Assuming you have had them balanced a second time and the problem remains then a problem I have seen in the past is the refurb places put too much paint on the back mating surface - so it doesnt give a flush flat finish against the hub - causing a wobble.. the other place is the centre hole where it mounts - thats easier to spot as they dont go on easy. Post up a pic of the back of the wheel - might be worth sanding them back if thats the case

Unfortunately Ive seen charged cars go for 5k, I think even at 3k you would struggle to find a buyer, please dont take that as an insult to the work you have put into the car, its just the way prices are.

Sorry no - I have seen many classics that look lovely on the outside but are rotten underneath. Few years ago we had an old mini come in, beautiful on the outside and inside but was so bad underneath had the dangerous marker ticked on it, Guy was planning on selling it to someone who was coming down from Scotland that afternoon to buy it. The main parts of the test are still relevant to a 40 year old car.

Klarius will generally last 2-3 years, genuine toyota are usually minimum 10 years and can usually be welded when they do go

If you get it wrong it can really affect handling. Lots of the MR2 guys end up going back to stock (wider rears) sizes after fitting the same size aftermarket wheels all round.

could be a faulty exhaust - can you hear any vibration in any of the silencers. Would try and get euro to swap them for replacements Klarius are on the cheaper end, would try a Bosal if you can get one - or try a good used oem one

As hes such a good friend I wouldnt risk it personally One of my best mates fell out with me after doing him a favour on his car even though I was £2500 out of pocket as a result ( and didnt even say anything)

the gear may be engaged so might need a little pull to get it out Post a pic if that doesnt work

Assuming you have one tail light that is a single filament bulb and one that is a stop and tail. Swap the single filament for a twin filament and wire the brighter side to the fog switch

Using Ethanol as fuel does little to reduce CO2 emissions anyway once you factor in the energy used to produce, fertilize, harvest, process and transport it. Its a nice idea but ultimately flawed.

it works with the rest of the kit in my opinion

Can work both ways, I've bought cars from members on here that have had some serious (and even dangerous) bodges. And to add to that Ive seen work by "specialists" of the same quality. Really need to get the car checked out properly I guess....

lots of dogs but lots of good cars just because it has a lot of service stamps doesnt mean its not rotten and vice versa - no service history doesnt mean its a dog main thing is getting a good look underneath and seeing how it drives im regretting parking mine up now - it never let me down and is still solid underneath but I need a change now so wont be bringing it back

i have a set but one rubber foot is missing - will find it when i tidy up one day

I don't think they ever use the info, so many places online making "show plates" without asking for docs it makes a mockery of the whole scheme

aftermarket kit would be easier to fit than trying to refit the factory one there is a member on here who has done it

Started training for london to brighton last week so ive been doing my 13 mile (each way) commute on the bike With traffic in the morning in the car it takes around 40 mins to an hour and its almost always an hour on the way back Got back in an hour and 4 minutes on the bike yesterday so its a no brainer now to become a regular thing until it gets icy, getting quicker each ride as well as I get more familiar with the cycle paths

Barrel price is creeping up combined with slightly weaker £ to $ Just need to hope the barrel price doesnt get back up over $100 whilst the £ is weak

are the pads stuck in the carriers?

stuck pads, siezed piston or a seized pins in the carrier

So the advice has always been to finger tighten them and apply loctite. I found on more than one occasion when customers brought cars in with them fitted that when I removed the wheel nut the stud would come out with it. Whenever I have fitted them I have applied loctite and used the 2 nut 2 spanner method to tighten them and Ive never seen one come back out.

Yes because people dont use the locks because they always use the fob - the cars are now 12-18 years old I usually find the drivers lock is ok but the other 2 can be seized. The other thing is that if your key will have worn to your barrel over time - but your lock wont have had the same wear. If you keep a lot of keys on the bunch (or keyrings) it slowly wears the key and barrel away - as it constantly swings with weight on it as you drive.

The way the inside lock is on the Celica it's very hard to push with something from the outside. You have to open the lock before pulling the handle id be careful about using the airbag to push the window out as I think it would bend the regulator - but the gen7 window regulators are dirt cheap as well anyway. use normal oil and dip the key in it and then run it in and out of the lock, dip again and repeat, each time try the lock both ways. I would try this for about an hour. the bonnet release runs under the drivers side wheel arch.you will need to remove the plastic arch liner. But to open it you will need to cut the outer cover so that you can pull on the cable inside. You will then need to replace the cable. It's the same setup as bicycle brake cables. Keep trying the lock the way I said above - just gentle though - be patient it will work.

if the insurance company have taken it away just bear in mind that you many have to pay to have it recovered back to you