ams

they shouldnt really be offering it you if its going to be a cat B Keep it, remove the engine and my an mr2 with a blown engine to swap in

if you get really stuck - smash one of the door glasses - I have them for £10 , dont break the small quarter glass but would put oil on the key and then push it in and out lots of times - adding oil each time - that usually frees them off

I sold a mint red premium one with a rebuilt engine for £950 about 5 years ago. That only had 92,000 on it. It took a fair while to sell as well. The prices have only fallen since then.

Wont do any harm changing it but if you have a sports cat with a low cell count then the code is just telling you that its not good enough

just give the rest a tug, use a screwdriver under it and pull

That sounds like the Alarm ECU is faulty- I have a few cheap - drop me a message if you need one

are you using the fob to unlock the car or the physical key?

420 is cat not sensor

Sunroof sounds like the chains in the mechanism are gone - I have some mechanisms going fairly cheap if you need one When you changed the calipers did you change the carriers too? How much is the imbalance?

I personally think 1285 for a 140 is quite a good price. Although you insured it with a value of £2000 - thats not the same as an agreed value policy (usually applied to classic cars) - that usually requires a valuation to be performed or pictures etc to be sent in before they agree it on policy. You can pick up facelift 190s with similar mileage in good condition for that sort of money now. facelift 140s with 100k on the clock rarely fetch over a £1000 these days

Unfortunately the engine counts for nothing - unless you have specialist insurance with agreed value Whats the mileage on the car?

i was doing 650 miles a week on a 280,000 miles car until recently When the car was newer I was regularly doing 1500-2000 miles a week. I have converted my car to LPG which costs about 10p a mile on average

Cable on the 140 one is too short to fit the 190 - that is for pre-cat Post cat is the same

1. Check there are no leaks, particularly between idle control valve and throttle body 2. Check the idle control valve is not stuck 3. Check the cable stop hasnt been adjusted so its staying partially open 4. Play with the adjuster screw if its there

The problem is with using the AC is that once you start using it, you constantly have to use it to demist the windows. If you stop and let it dry out over a few weeks it clears up. Also cleaning the windows from the inside dramatically reduces how much they mist up

check for water under the spare wheel and also remove the rear seat base and check there is no water under ther

my ta22 when I stripped all the paint off - had about 20 layers of paint - from memory - it was black - primer - matt black - primer - blue - red - yellow - and a few more primers in between - I used a fair few gallons of starchem to get it all of. I painted it thunder grey - but when it gets painted again I think I will go to the original yellow. Wont take as long to strip it back this time... anyway I would go with the original colour, although it does look nice in red

i hate selling cars - used to sell a lot years ago - lots of day dreamers and time wasters who will spend half an hour going over the car and test driving it before offering you half the money. last car I sold i was a lot more resistant to test drives and would point out all the faults and be clear that the price was firm - this flushed out a lot of people from turning up and a fair few on test drives - did end up practically giving the car away in the end because my attitude put off a lot of people. Any one who wanted a test drive I took there driving licence from them first - probably wouldn't do much but at least stops them doing a runner if something bad does happen.

The argument is usually that they are owned by enthusiasts who keep up with maintenance but in my experience - this can often mean bodged jobs A few years back we had a mk1 mini come in for an mot- the bodywork and interior had been restored but underneath it was completely rotten so much so the tester ticked the dangerous to be on the road box on the bottom of the failure sheet

Id imagine they will wait until the celica name has a significant cult following so that when it is released it has some impact. I reckon the supra name is at that point now so reckon they will release the talked about BMW/Toyota as a supra, celica is probably another 5-10 years away

if you have paid for a repair id fit that one

You can still get them for 5-7k when they come from sellers - the problem is a lot of dealers have been picking them up for 4-5k over the last few years and then whacking them for sale at 20k - but they sit for sale for ages

if its in your budget send him a message

Do it - I bought my gen4 as a guy down my street had a brand new one when I was 4 and I dreamed about it ever since the price only seems to go up , 10 years ago - they could be picked up for £100 as they were not desirable - and there were regularly 3 for sale on ebay at any 1 time - same as the gen4s - i bought a gen4 just for the heater matrix and exhaust to go into my other one member Surjit was selling his, but has sold a few of his other cars recently so maybe holding onto it now http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1986-Toyota-Celica-Supra-4-0-V8-MA61-1UZ-Retro-/112503914841?hash=item1a31c18159:g:uLcAAOSw-K9ZD4rA

with a classic car its very rarely an investment, unless you find a bargain, you may break even on it but a lot of the time it will require ongoing maintenance, I also dont believe in just parking them up if you import one and sell it on straight away, then you could turn a profit - but it can be hit and miss as you are buying blind