bazz54
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Posts posted by bazz54
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With low-mileage cars, rust on the discs can be an issue, and so too the problem of sticking calipers. I occasionally do a trip on a road with very little traffic and quite a steep and long hill. On the way down, if no one is behind, I take the chance to "exercise the brakes" in the hope that it will have some restorative effects
. Always good when the car slows well and show no pulling to either side.
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I am retired now, and have two cars, so neither car gets a great deal of use in mid-winter. This is not good for the batteries, and in particular, the Gen7 (security system?) seems to drain the battery. Also, the "other car" has a set of winter tyres, so is used in preference if the weather is bad.
My old battery charger needed "manual" disconnection when the batteries were fully charged, and there have been times when I've appreciably overcharged batteries, which are mightily expensive these days. Last autumn I bought myself one of the all-singing, bells and whistle CTEK chargers, and this has been the first winter I've had it. It's been a very good experience, knowing I could just connect it up and pretty much forget about it. I really didn't like the price, but I'm glad I bought it
. I know people who have bought cheap smart-chargers on-line and have quickly come to regret it. I have no connection with CTEK and other prestige makes are available.
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I have no faith in the colour coding system any more. I suspect that garages might use some (claimed) "Universal" formula. As above, only use the Toyota stuff in my Gen7.
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Interesting, certainly looks like it works but hard to know how well the sealant will work.
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All problems solved... I think. The outcome is a surprise, but makes everything understandable, which is good.
The issue lies with the precise shape of the sensor; it has a shoulder on the section that goes in to the hub and I had not noticed that the shoulder has a slight taper and so it sits in the hub a bit like a cork in a bottle. The "shim" was 21 years of rust and muck. I've tried to do a reasonable drawing as attached. Put it back with no shim (it's a long story getting to that point) and all is good and the ABS rumbling at low speed appears to be gone. Changed the oil and filter while I had it on stands.
Many thanks for you contributions - always good to be able to bounce ideas off people when you're struggling
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Thanks for the comments. No Playdoh, but got some Bluetack.
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What was it that Sherlock Holmes said about ruling the possible things out? I hadn't thought of it but you'd have to think it's possible that something odd with the casting happened. I've just found out that the part number on the sensor is the right Toyota part. One thing's for sure; that sensor and that hub cannot be used together without some "restorative" addition.
I never intended to take the sensor out at this stage, but noticed that the 10mm hex head mounting screws were very rusty and thought I'd try change them before they got worse. The sensor just came out with the screw. The road to hell... good intentions
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Inserting the sensor as far as it will go in to the hub (presumably the point at which the sensor is touching the ring) then there is a gap of ~1.5mm between the underside of the sensor shoulder and the hub. So to give a clearance to the ring of say 0.5mm, the 'shim' would need to be 2mm thick.
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This is the very first time I've ever got involved with ABS sensors. There's the YouTube video above where a guy was clearly installing new shims with a new sensor. But, I found a video of a guy replacing a sensor on a Corolla and there were no shims. Conversations I've had elsewhere confirm some cars/bikes have them and the manual would specify the thickness. The shim sets the clearance between the sensor pole and the reluctor ring. I think you can see at least part of the shim on the second picture above; it had completely changed to rust, some of it just fell off, some of it was well stuck on.
In terms of the Gen7, could it be that some production batches had them and some not? It's not that unusual for there to be some variations over the production run of a car's lifetime. My 7 is a pre-face from 2002. Ideally, I could contact Toyota and they would tell me, but I suspect that support for the Celica is pretty minimal and this is very obscure. I am only the second owner of the car, which was only 3 years old when I got it.
Given that there was a shim on mine, I think I have to re-assembly it with something equivalent; I've made one out of aluminium just to keep me on the road (have yet to install and test it).
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In the Gen7 sub-forum, I've been talking about some quirkiness with my ABS. I have now have the sensor out. It seems that they are installed with a metal shim beneath them to set the clearance and this has rusted to pieces - see pics. The first pic is the sensor after wiping away the muck with my finger and the second as it was when removed, with the pole covered in rust .
However, there was clearly a shim under the sensor which has completely rusted away. This Youtube shows a man fitting shims under a sensor https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UDpWyIvWC4
Do we know anything about what Mr Toyota does on Celicas? No mention at all of this in the Toyota workshop manual. I'm told the manual should give a shim thickness, typically 0.6 to 0.9mm. My car is 21 this year, so it's potentially a problem arriving with any Gen7 sometime soon.
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On 28/05/2023 at 10:00, AmyLou83 said:
Ok, whatever is broken is not just the subframe. There's another part that's needed that isn't available and on back order with Toyota.
Its all good and yes, the £700 includes my MOT, labour, parts, tires and whatever else is needed to get her through. Last year she flew through the MOT. This year, different story! That's cars for you I suppose.
£700 sounds very fair. Can you tell us what the part is that Toyota are no longer supplying? I have no idea what's not available and what (if anything) is still available from them.
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There are quite a few threads on the forum where people have replaced their G7 subframes. Given that the subframe is ~£240 (they were still available direct from Toyota not too long ago), then for sure, various other parts are needed but I would not thought they would total £700 in parts, but the old threads might give some guidance. I guess it may be a case of asking whether while the subframe is off, it may be worthwhile replacing various braking or suspension parts etc, which may be currently OK, but best done at the same time?
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So, all that gas has just gone in to the atmosphere! It really is time that selling such DIY air-con stuff was made illegal. If you don't do a pressure test before re-filling, you are just guessing that you don't have other leaks and the same thing could well happen again.
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I've stayed away from anything using SMD's; would need a younger pair of eyes to cope with those. As for tantalum, I've always regarded those as components that need very carefully designed circuits to be reliable. I have an old scope made by a Japanese company called Leader (not sure if they are still around) and that used to blow tants (which were the original fitments) and I got fed up with them, put in good quality aluminium electrolytics and never looked back. The practice of putting small ceramics alongside electrolytics is common practice in ham a radio equipment where there may be some level of RF around.
The picture above shows traditional through-hole components in the Gen 5 ECU; have you ever taken a look to see what a Gen7 ECU looks like inside?
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15 hours ago, slybunda said:
Would be good if someone could put together a shopping list of caps needed for ecu of various celica generations.
Could some tell me, to make a list of caps for a particular ECU, are there any Toyota sources (service sheets?) available or is it a case of taking an ECU, taking the lid off and spotting the (electrolytic) caps?
I've not heard of this problem arising with Gen7's yet (?), but I'd be willing to get involved in compiling a Gen7 list.
A quick look on Google suggests that there's a lot of info already there about cap replacement in ECU's in general.
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I mess around with vintage radios/electronics and the sort of electrolytic capacitors shown in the picture above do often degrade, even in household electronics. It shows up most in low value components (10uF and less). High temperatures will certainly accelerate the problem.
As for ceramics, I didn't know you could get ceramics with values of 10uF; I think the largest value of ceramic I've ever seen would be 0.1uF.
The quality of electrolytics has improved enormously over the last 20-30years, but the difference in quality between no-name components and the big-name components can be huge. There's a parameter called "effective series resistance" (ESR) and good quality modern caps have appreciably better ESR than old components and cheap components. Build quality and life expectancy is also much better in quality brands. Obviously, the quality brands are appreciable more expensive to buy.
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Toyota did not want to publicise the problems on the pre-face engine, but there was a Toyota internal memo which got leaked, and that is on this site somewhere. IIRC, the original dipstick has a yellow plastic coating on the top and the revised one is green. I don't think you need a new one; I just scratched a line 10mm higher than the original Max level.
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On 21/01/2022 at 07:55, slybunda said:
Bigger filter has more filter media surface area so less delta pressure across the media. Less chance of a bypass event in cold weather too. Also adds bit more oil capacity. With normal filter on oil change i fill to max mark with around 4.7L. with ford filter i get whole 5L bottle in.
And of course, they recommended an extra half litre ( or was it a litre?) for the pre-face engines (fill to 10mm above the original max line on the original stick).
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IPA is a very mild solvent; it won't do much on grease. Acetone or MEK would be best. People often talk about using "brake cleaner" for various jobs, but are all brake cleaners the safe stuff, and if so, what? I have easy access to all kinds of chemicals via my business, so just use IPA, Acetone, MEK, Xylene etc as suits the need.
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I heard the comment today, " I wouldn't buy service parts from a 'factors', they're well known for bulk-buying from anywhere that'll give them the quantity & price point they need", and I've heard similar comments previously. I'm not sure who/what counts as a "factors" - are Eurocarpart or autodoc factors?
If you buy a Mann filter for only £3.50, p&p free, aren't just a bit concerned about what you've been supplied with? German workers have some of the best Terms and Conditions in the world. As mentioned above, I've bought and used Mann filters and I regard the fakes issue as a universal problem. What's the perception on BluePrint stuff now?
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I could not comment on that much; Euro have an outlet nearby but I very rarely use it, though there is no reason for that. I did spot that recently they had an good offer on Denso spark plugs (used in my Rover) and I ordered click and collect. Went in (it was empty) and a very pleasant assistant had me served and out in seconds.
I see that in the USA, they seem to rate Fram 'Ultra' filters very highly viz https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000C33MI2/ref=as_li_tf_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=15121&creative=330641&creativeASIN=B000C33MI2&SubscriptionId=linkCode=as2&tag=bestrudch2367-21
Mann do not sell in to the US as they own some US brands.
It seems that one way to spec a filter is to say that, in one pass of the oil, it must take out say 98% of particles of a particular size, so it if that size was 10 micron and above that's good, if it was 40 micron and above, less good. The problem is that the makers generally don't make their data available to us customers.
Apparently, Toyota have confirmed that they have two distinctly different types of filter (presumably different makes) sold under the same part number. I would assume that both meet their procurement spec.
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It was always interesting to look at the JD Power surveys of car reliability and see that it was very much dominated by Japanese cars and that German cars did less well. The last JDP results I can find for the UK are 2018's, but for 2021 there's a survey called carbuyer, which suggests that the Japanese have been losing out a bit, but only to other far-eastern makes and not Germany https://www.carbuyer.co.uk/news/148250/the-best-cars-to-own-in-the-uk-driver-power-2021-results. Those results are based on newish cars, which will be dealer-maintained to retain warranty, using OEM parts.
Given that some people rate Mann filters highly, and they are probably priced more dearly, there is more incentive to fake them them than there is for the more 'mundane' Japanese OEM brands. There is no evidence at all that the Toyota-dealer supply chain is more vulnerable than for any other supplier. If you reject Toyota filters, are you going to reject other Toyota parts too?
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I cannot imagine that anyone on this forum, looking after cars that are 20 years old at minimum, would skimp on oil filters. Question is what's the best bet? As above, I cannot imagine that Toyota would sell inadequate filters, and additionally, I think if you go in your local dealer's parts shop, you are probably going to get a genuine Toyota-approved part and not some fake product.
I've not used Mann on the Gen7 but I have used them on my Honda-engined Rover. I wonder where the safest place is to buy a genuine Mann (or any other reputable make) filter? I guess that we are all fairly doubtful of ebay and amazon.
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Ok, that is an interesting video and the three Toyota filters look different, but all three may meet the procurement spec. I'd have to guess what a procurement spec would look like for a car oil filter; I suppose it will specify particles in groups of size ranges, and limit the number of each range that can pass for a given volume of oil. So maybe anything of 100micron or greater, none. For particles up to 5 microns, 10,000 per litre(?) and so on and so on for all particle sizes. For anyone who is not sure, a typical human hair is 75-100 microns diameter (3-4 thou). There will be other stuff too in the spec like life requirement.
I really doubt that most of us could tell what's good and bad just on appearance; it needs a lubricants laboratory with some clever test gear.
I take the view that the people who most want Toyota engines to have a good reputation is Toyota, so selling poor filters would be a really bad idea.
However, we live in strange times, and so that's my rationale, but who knows what the truth is
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Winter Battery Care
in General Celica Discussion
Posted
I guess that has a "de-sulfator" on it? I bought a de-sulfator (as a separate item) many years ago, pretty much out of curiosity. It was a kit supplied by a small firm in Scotland. I very quickly decided that it really did work, and helped recover some old batteries. Batteries die through various causes and the de-sulfators only work on those suffering largely from sulfation, so they don't work on all batteries. I've only used the CTEK on good batteries so far, so have no feel for whether or not it is effective on sulfation. I've put my kit one on an oscilloscope to look at it's output waveform; must try that on the CTEK.