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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/07/18 in all areas

  1. So just over a year ago I completed a front end rebuild comprising, amongst other things a new set of KYB shocks - purchased from an online supplier of reasonable reputation I recently went over a crater on the M5 at 70 mph and damaged my passenger side shock (blew the seal). So, to be thorough I bought another pair of KYBs from my trusted local supplier which were sourced right from KYB uk. Imagine my surprise on extracting said blown shock and finding a totally different brand under the KYB Excel-G sticker - they are actually "Optimal" made shocks which seem to come from china and are the same basic make as most of the cheapo "rebranded" shocks out there. I guess faking the KYB sticker and box wasn't difficult..... don't ever buy Optimal shocks. even the one on the undamaged side was totally fecked after just 1 year. 10mm free play up/down on the piston, squeaky seals, virtually no rebound pressure left, hard and soft parts along the stroke -oh, and rusty too. I am usually very diligent when I source critical parts, but this time I was caught out and thought I would share the experience. ps - with genuine KYBs at the front now and known genuine KYBs at the back it doesn't half ride stiffer ! its like its on rails
    1 point
  2. By your description..mine looks to be genuine. The top "plate" is silver, and the welding around the base continuous. This is exactly what is stamped directly under the sticker: 334278 KYB CAUTION GAS FILLED DO NOT OPEN OR HEAT MADE IN JAPAN PL14 There is also transparent plastic banding around the shock.
    1 point
  3. would prefer not at this time, I want to see what their response to my email is look at yours and you see a sticker AND the KYB part number & "made in japan" stamped on the outward face of the shock. The top "plate" around the piston should be silver not black and be a flat disc with tacwelds. The weld around the very bottom of the shock where it has the hub plate pressed around it - it should be a continuous weld all around the tube, not just a few spot welds. that was all the more obvious differences I could see
    1 point
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