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Underseal


Kobir

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Just got home from dropping my car off at MG autos, hopefully they will do a good job judging by how many people let them work on there cars, must've been a minimum of 15 Evo's, Brand new RS7, brand new golf R, scirocco, M3, S3 and many more which iv forgotten so hopefully in good hands, looking to get my car back in two weeks, possibly longer as they have a huge pile of work to be done, told Dave I didn't mind aslong as the job was done properly and not rushed etc, also just emailed him now asking if he can take pics of the process as he goes along so I can show you guys and keep pics just for myself, so hopefully can update this post with pics of work carried out as its done, can't wait to get my car back now, many thanks to everyone for their input

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Nice, you can tell them they can do mine in the new year too

Best to do it in summer, you want your car to be as dry as possible before they underseal it to not trap any moisture, that's why I rushed to get the money together to get it done before the summers over or else I'd have to wait till next summer, but I have mentioned you may be interested in doing so in the future

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Surely could have bargained on better price if they new you were going to bring more trade in, although well worth it no matter the cost.

No offence to Esther city ( sorry dude I don't know your name) and I ain't directing this at you but just saying in general, people say they'll have this or they be up for this eg but back out and I don't want to tell them I have someone else interested and then disappoint, if they get the work done properly, il most likely go back to them and can always ask for a discount the second time round but for now, il happily pay the price for the work aslong as its done to my satisfaction

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I'm not to sure tbh but iv seen a few cars they've recently under sealed and it's hard like paint

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Well that is interesting, because as I've said on here before, I stopped using "underseal" years ago. During the 60's and 70's when cars were real rot boxes, loads of firms started up to do underseal and that was usually black sticky stuff that didn't seem much different from tar. When new it was really soft but it progressively dried out and after a length of time it was often possible to pull it off in great patches and pretty often there was rust occurring underneath. So the questions seemed to be; (i) just how effective is this stuff at preventing corrosion (ii) how good is at at forming an adhesive bond with the paint layer and (iii) can it actually make things worse, if only by hiding rust?

 

Waxoil came along later and seemed to be better (?), but at the same time, paint technology improved enormously, so body rot on cars now takes far longer to get started than before. So if the stuff these guys are using looks like hard paint, then maybe it is hard paint, but one that's formulated to be a thick tough barrier and resistant to impact, which I'd guess are the key properties of an "underseal". But I think I'm right in saying that you can still go down the high street or go on-line and buy tins of black tarry stuff (just like 40 years ago), labelled "underseal" and is just fine..... for a car you're going to sell next week.

 

B

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Well that is interesting, because as I've said on here before, I stopped using "underseal" years ago. During the 60's and 70's when cars were real rot boxes, loads of firms started up to do underseal and that was usually black sticky stuff that didn't seem much different from tar. When new it was really soft but it progressively dried out and after a length of time it was often possible to pull it off in great patches and pretty often there was rust occurring underneath. So the questions seemed to be; (i) just how effective is this stuff at preventing corrosion (ii) how good is at at forming an adhesive bond with the paint layer and (iii) can it actually make things worse, if only by hiding rust?

Waxoil came along later and seemed to be better (?), but at the same time, paint technology improved enormously, so body rot on cars now takes far longer to get started than before. So if the stuff these guys are using looks like hard paint, then maybe it is hard paint, but one that's formulated to be a thick tough barrier and resistant to impact, which I'd guess are the key properties of an "underseal". But I think I'm right in saying that you can still go down the high street or go on-line and buy tins of black tarry stuff (just like 40 years ago), labelled "underseal" and is just fine..... for a car you're going to sell next week.

B

I guess time will tell if the money invested was worth it or not

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Dave called me today, for the first time in my life, a garage has called up just to keep me updated, so credit to MG autos, Dave told me his stripped everything off, washed, will leave it to dry till Monday and begin prepping for underseal, also said he's taken loads of pics and will get one of his colleagues who's more knowledgable round a computer to send them to me lol and said he will keep me posted on the rest of the progress.

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Good luck mate, hope it all works out. Defo worth it if you're keeping the car and if it's caught earlier it always helps.

 

JDModified did Rufus, details and pics on page 7 of my Rufus Resurrection thread on Modifications - everything stripped off, that stuff cleaned up and powder coated, underside cleaned up back to bare metal, some bits of welding done to fix one or two issues and then rust treated before waxoil and putting back together. Monumental job but he'll last for years now :)

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I guess time will tell if the money invested was worth it or not

 

 

It would be really interesting to know the name of the product they are using. Don't get me wrong about putting additional "rust protection" on your car, I'm all for that, but I'm definitely not a fan of the black, soft, goo that people have traditionally referred to as "underseal".

 

I did my rear sub-frame and petrol tank (using zinc phosphate primer and then a professional metal cladding top coat) back in April, and judging by the thread which has started about front sub-frames, looks as though I need to get the brushes out again :(

Edited by bazz54
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Ok, so it's interesting to look at this http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/PG-BH13-001.pdf

which may have been posted on the forum previously. Of course, the obvious limitation of this test study is that they applied the "underbody treatment" directly to bare steel and leave you to assume that the results would still be valid if they'd put it on painted steel. But then, perhaps they would have found that when put down on top of a good paint system, the underbody treatment adds little additional protection? The test do prove, very convincingly, that without paint, the underbody treatments all allow rusting under the test condition being used.

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