bazz54 Posted January 29, 2016 Report Share Posted January 29, 2016 Picking up from the thread in the Gen7 sub-forum which suggests that corrosion on 7's (rear sub-frames and petrol tanks) is now becoming an issue, I'm curious about what people currently think are the best paints for dealing with such problems. A couple of people on that thread say they'll be using Hammerite, and in the past I would have agreed with them; Hammerite used to be the dog's danglies. But lots of paints have had their formulations changed in recent years to suit health/safety/environment requirements, and in the case of Hammerite's "direct to metal paint", I'm not sure it's as good as it used to be. I recall seeing comments on other car forums that the current formulation is hard/brittle and does not do well where the component is subject to flexing or stone impact(?). I do have quite a good opinion of Hammerite's "Rust Beater", which I think is a completely different product to the direct to metal stuff. As my 7 is coming up on 14 years old , I probably need to take a look at the chassis when the weather gets better. B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xanadu Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 I haven't used either of these myself, but Granville Heavy Duty Rust Cure and Epoxy Mastic 121 are supposed to be good. They are both expensive, but cheaper than the cost of a welded repair if you let the rust take over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Insanity-74 Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 Bilt Hamber do a great rust convertor. For paint either epoxy mastic 121 pr POR15 products. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Y393 Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 I used deox rust removal gel, then hammerite and waxoyl underseal, the waxoyl seems to prevent chipping Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
25th Anniversary Posted January 30, 2016 Report Share Posted January 30, 2016 so this is one of the best to paint underneath car? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSTBUSTER-EPOXY-MASTIC-RB121-BLACK-2L-Metal-anti-rust-paint-10-M2-/361062370387?hash=item5410fe8c53:m:mn-Ofs_wFFnXNb3iKq9b6nQ so just wire brush and apply? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crazy Cat Lady Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 I have a tin of David's Zinc 182, it's all ready for action but haven't used it yet.... Was going to use it on the rear sub-frame, but after finding the preparation too time consuming and fiddly using my humble little drill and rotary wire brush, we had a change of plan. The donor sub-frame has been taken apart and the smaller parts sand-blasted, primed, painted and bake hardened. The main centre part was too big to fit in the blaster, or the oven, so was [laboriously] striped using an industrial rotary wire brush to remove surface rust and what was left of the original paint. It's been painted with a primer but i don't know what the product is - will find out and report back soon [with photos]. Another issue is the option of whether to poly-bush or not. The original bushes on my donor sub-frame look fine so we plan to re-use them. However, i'm like what i read about the specifications of the SuperPro polybushes, shame they don't do them for the Gen7 rear sub-frame [...yet?] Debs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nemesis Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 so this is one of the best to paint underneath car? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RUSTBUSTER-EPOXY-MASTIC-RB121-BLACK-2L-Metal-anti-rust-paint-10-M2-/361062370387?hash=item5410fe8c53:m:mn-Ofs_wFFnXNb3iKq9b6nQ so just wire brush and apply? I've used that myself & it does seem good, a lot cheaper on their website but only used it after I have used a rust converter first http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-fe-123-best-in-every-test-/p405034/ What you linked to I used after I had converted the rust as a top coat http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-epoxy-mastic/p404984 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave_t Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Another thumbs up for Bilt Hamber. Used their products rust proofing and undersealing my Silvia S15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sh3p Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) I have a tin of David's Zinc 182, it's all ready for action but haven't used it yet.... Was going to use it on the rear sub-frame, but after finding the preparation too time consuming and fiddly using my humble little drill and rotary wire brush, we had a change of plan. The donor sub-frame has been taken apart and the smaller parts sand-blasted, primed, painted and bake hardened. The main centre part was too big to fit in the blaster, or the oven, so was [laboriously] striped using an industrial rotary wire brush to remove surface rust and what was left of the original paint. It's been painted with a primer but i don't know what the product is - will find out and report back soon [with photos]. Another issue is the option of whether to poly-bush or not. The original bushes on my donor sub-frame look fine so we plan to re-use them. However, i'm like what i read about the specifications of the SuperPro polybushes, shame they don't do them for the Gen7 rear sub-frame [...yet?] Debs Do a search for energy suspension in the states ..they do a front and rear kit for the gen7 ..is very reasonably priced and shipping isn't too bad (especially if you can get a group buy together) I did mine all round and was impressed with them Edited February 1, 2016 by sh3p Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
25th Anniversary Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 (edited) I've used that myself & it does seem good, a lot cheaper on their website but only used it after I have used a rust converter first http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-fe-123-best-in-every-test-/p405034/ What you linked to I used after I had converted the rust as a top coat http://www.rust.co.uk/buy-epoxy-mastic/p404984 so converter it then epoxy mastic over it yeah? Ive had my car underside done, but turns out the paint he used is porous, which is no good. So do i have to wire brush this coating off then use the converter and mastic? Edited January 31, 2016 by 25th Anniversary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smwebb1993 Posted January 31, 2016 Report Share Posted January 31, 2016 Get some red oxide paint, that has chemicals within it that reacts with rust and counteracts it, it's expensive but is good stuff Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazz54 Posted February 1, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 Get some red oxide paint, that has chemicals within it that reacts with rust and counteracts it, it's expensive but is good stuff The original red oxide paints contained lead, but have now been very much restricted (banned?), so the term "red oxide" now mainly refers to the colour of the paint. Though it's generally accepted that "Red Oxide" paints are rust/corrosion resistant, any two of them could fairly different. All that said, Screwfix do a a very inexpensive Red Oxide, which brushes on and takes to surfaces very well (some paints seem "stodgy" by comparison), and I've not used it on a car, but it does seem to have done well on other stuff that gets left outside. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Smwebb1993 Posted February 1, 2016 Report Share Posted February 1, 2016 You can actually buy red oxide which can be sprayed on aswell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Harry-Dave Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 My car got an MOT note for subframe rust. DO these regularly rust through and be a complete MOT failure or is it just a surface rust warning that lots of models get? Google seems to throw up a range of answers. I have almost a year till the next MOT so I thought about getting a spare subframe, getting it sandblasted and coated but is this a real pain? How much stuff needs to be removed to accomplish this? I presume I would need to replace all rubbers on it etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter_7 Posted February 3, 2016 Report Share Posted February 3, 2016 Buying and stripping a spare rear sub for the lads Tsport was the best and easiest option. After stripping it down burnt out the old bushes, sand blasted ever thing a good coat of zinc 152 then black hammerite. let it set a few days fit the polybush kit and it took less than an hour to swap job done. I personally believe you can't beat sand blasting to remove all the old paint and rust back to a bare bones virgin surface you only got yourself to blame if it rust again cus you didn't paint it well enough. Never been a fan of these rust killer / converters if they were any good don't you think they would have dragged the Titanic up give it a coat and shouted look its like new. Would have been the best advert ever. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 I have been reading up on Dinitrol products as i plan to sort the underneath of my Gen 7. Flaky/scaly rust in the usual places. Anybody any experience of this brand of products? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ams Posted February 22, 2016 Report Share Posted February 22, 2016 (edited) kurust used to be a very good product - ive not used it for a number of years - but it would react with surface rust Think you then need to paint over it with something else In regards to the subframes rotting thorugh - yes they are rotting all the way through, so much has been the demand in the last few months that I have actually run out of them on the shelf and they are having to be removed on order- the years of stockpiling them has actually paid off, same went for the shelves of petrol tanks and filler pipes that I had The main area they are going is - the two arms at the top of the subframe that go forward and bolt on to the body and also the drivers side just in front of the camber bolt - which is going to be a hard area to clean and treat with it on the car Edited February 22, 2016 by ams Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bazz54 Posted February 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 This issue with subframes seems vaguely reminiscent of the problem with the original mini years ago. I never owned one, but always had the impression that the rest of the car could be great but the subframes completely gone. I've just bought 5L of Johnstone's zinc phosphate primer and 5 L of their semi-gloss over-coat (well below list price on ebay) and need to make a start on both cars ASAP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sherv Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Kurust is decent stuff,but not for heavily corroded surfaces.A few years back i used a lot of Waxoyl over Hammerite,its done its job well so far.If i had to take the underside of the the car back and re - treat it,I think I would probably use the POR products and/or Dinitrol,which gets very good feedback on the classic car scene.Waxoyl in box sections or Dinitrol.I still check under my car every year and top up the Waxoyl,its protected my car for a good while.You have to make sure theres no hidden nasties though,even i missed a few of these and ended up having to get Bek to get the welder out a couple of years later. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sidta23 Posted February 23, 2016 Report Share Posted February 23, 2016 Rustbullet automotive excellent product! http://rustbulletuk.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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