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Is corner weighting worth doing for non track cars?


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I didnt have corner weighting done on my car but id had Whiteline adjustable camber bolts from GTFour play on the rear to go along with the polybushed Whiteline ARB, and the BC BR coilies on.I had a full geo done for about 105 or 115 quid I think and the car was night and day from an OEM setup.See what your proper printout looks like because what you have is a little naff without the basic info

This afternoon i phoned and spoke with the guy who set my car up,

they're not sure how to email the results from the printer but if they can't he will put some black ink in the printer and print it out properly, and then post it to me.

Will be interesting to see if it ever turns up...

Meanwhile the ride height measurements are a bit up the creek

centre wheel hub - vertical to wheel arch
FL 345mm - 350mm FR
RL 330mm - 330mm RR
I've had to adjust my headlamp level down 3 clicks
Debs
Edited by Crazy Cat Lady
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I'd be more concerned about the. FR and FL difference than the difference between front and rear. Seem strange that they're set different across an axle.

The rear arch on the other hand I think may actually be a slightly different shape than the front anyway so that could could account for the smaller measurement there.

I've never had much much to do with corner weighting but I would guess the theory is to balance the car so that each wheel carries a preset amount of weight. As you say the garage often do such set ups, it could be that they've went as far as to compensate for drivers weight and that there seems to be a little more engine on that side of the bay, without really looking at ride height as a standalone.

Just ask yourself if your happy with how it drives and how it looks? If either one is a no, then I'd be looking at taking it back and asking them to make the necessary adjustments, after all, for what you've paid you should be looked after by them afterwards too.

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Oops! ...sorry ride height typo corrected by edit!

The ride height measurement is too low at the rear; this may have happened after slackening off some pre-load from the rear springs.

But this ride height problem can be easily remedied by raising it back up again.

The big issue here is the alignment figures which i'm still waiting for.

The incomplete printout i have received suggests excessive negative camber.

P1010396_zpshlls3pqv.jpg

The seized rear camber arms will mean the full geo could not be achieved and only the front camber was adjusted.

I'll take a photo of the front coilover adjusters and post later.

Another discrepancy on the printout is the wrong wheel/trye size mentioned in the header - but i'm hoping this detail is irrelevant and overruled by the alignment machinery that was used on the actual wheel size of 17"

I have a feeling the improved feel of steering and agility may have resulted in noting more than adjusting the front track rod ends.

Edited by Crazy Cat Lady
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I can't believe they don't have any black ink left, seems a bit unprofessional to me...

But it is still readable as all the figures are in the same order as my printout. Although I'm not sure what the 7,8,9,10,11 degree figures are for? All the figures seem reasonable to me, other than the rear camber. Over -2 degrees and you will likely get some uneven tyre wear. I suggest some whiteline camber bolts to sort that as its likely that the standard bolts will not have sufficed adjustment even if you unseize them.

The slight difference in ride height is due to the corner weighting. They adjust the coils to change preload, which evens out the corner weights. You could change ride height but would have to change all 4 corners the same amount to maintain the set up. But as before I really don't think you will notice this unless you plan on driving the car near the limit. I would suggest a track day is in order [emoji4]

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I can't believe they don't have any black ink left, seems a bit unprofessional to me...

But it is still readable as all the figures are in the same order as my printout. Although I'm not sure what the 7,8,9,10,11 degree figures are for? All the figures seem reasonable to me, other than the rear camber. Over -2 degrees and you will likely get some uneven tyre wear. I suggest some whiteline camber bolts to sort that as its likely that the standard bolts will not have sufficed adjustment even if you unseize them.

The slight difference in ride height is due to the corner weighting. They adjust the coils to change preload, which evens out the corner weights. You could change ride height but would have to change all 4 corners the same amount to maintain the set up. But as before I really don't think you will notice this unless you plan on driving the car near the limit. I would suggest a track day is in order [emoji4]

I think the 7,8,9,10,11 figures are toe-in measured in millimetres

The excessive rear neg-camber is probably caused by the rear of the car being 2cm too low.

If just the rear is raised 2cm it may reduce this amount of excess neg-camber.

It looks like the front is too excessive in neg-camber too, although that is adjustable.

I'm not sure yet if this printout is the final results.

The set-up is obviously flawed due the front of the vehicle pointing upwards.

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The 7,8,9,10,11 figures look like they have been measured in degrees so would be interested to see some clarification on what they are.

I wouldn't base ride height on the gap between the arches. I'm not sure what it is standard but front and rear arch gaps do not ofter match. Might be worth checking the gap between the sills and the road at the front and rear. But again it would be best if someone could provide the standard factory measurements so you can make an accurate comparison.

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Here is part of mine.

I was getting uneven front tyre temps across the face and shoulder on track and needed a little more neg camber to sort it out.

My final red settings are the max that can be obtained on OEM but no more was needed as my three point temps, inner shoulder, outer shoulder and mid face are ok now.

Green is Toyota standard set-up.

AA79BA23-9A79-424D-9295-8FC146D324A0.jpg

Edited by GreyRacer
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GreyRacer, thanks for that. It makes my results look in the same ballpark for the front-end:

16d90608-ec88-4963-b236-5e75995a587e_zps

Assuming the right hand column figures are the final result on my printout. It looks like it is for the rear wheels.

My theory is that the rear ride height is 20mm too low, and being so has caused excessive neg-camber of -2.34 & -2.57

I believe i read somewhere that neg camber increases by lowering, and so will decrease with raising ride height?

If this is correct then raising the rear back up 20mm would sort out this issue?

I'm also concerned that the lighter steering and agility i feel is not only about improved toe-in adjustment but maybe a smaller tyre footprint caused by excessive neg camber on the front wheels. Will it now have less tyre grip in the wet?

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rear should always be slightly higher than the front I was told, not the other way around, measurements taken from ground to chassis . You can always buy a pair of adjustable rear camber arms to sort rear camber out if it bothers you . Probably as cheap as having the old camber bolts sorted.

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rear should always be slightly higher than the front I was told, not the other way around, measurements taken from ground to chassis . You can always buy a pair of adjustable rear camber arms to sort rear camber out if it bothers you . Probably as cheap as having the old camber bolts sorted.

It's booked in tomorrow morning to have the rear raised 20mm which will definitely make the car sit better and should help reduce the excessive rear neg-camber.

But speaking with the mechanic, he said it had -3 degrees neg camber on the front end before he started work, but he could only adjust this excess down to -1.43 & -1.42 which is as far as the top strut adjusters will allow at their limit. This puzzles me.

New camber arms are on my wish-list, along with a few other goodies :rolleyes:

Debs

btw: HAPPY BIRTHDAY Bumblebee! - Hope you're having a good one! :P

Edited by Crazy Cat Lady
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Another trip to BD Performance at Wrexham this morning, they were very helpful.

Mechanic kindly raised the rear ride height up by 2cm which should put the excessive rear neg-camber into sensible territory.

The car is now about 30mm lowered from the standard ride hight so it don't look that low, but it's not really sensible to go any lower with seized camber arms.

They are quite happy and confident about removing the old camber arms, so will probably go along with this very soon...

On the way home in the rain the car felt nice and grippy on very wet roads, the handle improvements are obvious.

Ride comfort has become far more tolerable too :rolleyes:

Debs

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Glad all is going well.

What's the plans with the rear camber arms?

Un-seize and adjust?

Sorry Steve, if it were a DIY job i'd buy a pair of those Hardrace camber arms from you,

but the job is getting done by BD Performance of Wrexham who stock and obtain aftermarket products,

it would be a bit cheeky of me to buy off someone else and ask them to fit so i've asked them for a price to include supply and fitting.

My DIY [Daydreaming Incompetence Yawning] skills are fearless under my rust-bucket with my trusting old socket set... :giveup:

Debs

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