geraintthomas Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 So excited is an understatement. What's the process of running new discs and pads in properly? The front discs in the photo have marks on them as I trail fitted the brakes previously, and only went a few hundred yards. Is there a certain technique to bed them in, and anything I should avoid? As a side statement - big thanks to FreakyParts for all of this. Cheers! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Spectre Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 Brake early with light pressure and increase the pressure slowly and evenly. That's what I've been told. But to be honest just drive normally, but be aware that they won't brake properly until the coating left by the manufacturing process has been worn away. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Akuma77 Posted July 8, 2015 Report Share Posted July 8, 2015 the coating did make a annoying noise for 50 miles or so but once its worn off they seem very silent and stay non rusty Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4jw Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 if you want to do it properly like a race car: find a long dual carriage way or motorway at NIGHT. Accelerate to 70mph then brake all the way to 15mph, then soon at you're there accelerate again to 60mph and back down to 15mph and so on until you accelerate from 20 to 10. at that point, just get back to 70 and drive normally to let it COOL ( TRY NOT TO TOUCH THE BRAKE FOR THE NEXT 5-10 MINUTES). Doing this will run your pads and disc in 1 go and leaves a fine layer of pad material on the disc which will also help breaking. repeat a second time if necessary and just to confirm that the brakes are really doing it for you! PS: try to do that after 50 miles just to get rid of the coating on the discs first. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geraintthomas Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Fantastic, that's great advice! I'm sure I watched on AMMO somewhere about bedding in new brakes and it sounded similar to that. Thanks pal! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
4jw Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Yh, that's the hardcore way of doing it. Works for me, You just need a lot of runway! Your's are bigger but I still welcome you to the yellow club mate. Good work with your car Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim881 Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Bloody hell..... Saw the post and thought you'd fitted them!!! Stop messing about Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_B Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 Very much looking forward to seeing these fitted ! One question though, the smaller braided lines you have, are they for the rears? Reason I ask when I got my car MOT'd the guy thought that my dyalaites should have had a braided/standard hose going across the bottom bleed niples as he was a bit baffled by the 4 nipples? He said he wasn't sure but in truth, if this was the case I am sure Freaky would have given me the heads up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keef-b Posted July 9, 2015 Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 There are 4 bleed nipples as the calipers are universal for many applications so may end up fitted either way around requiring there to be bleed nipple top and bottom 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geraintthomas Posted July 9, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2015 What Keef said. You need to bleed both top nipples, and as they're not left/right dependant, they could be either one. I haven't fitted them as I need a weekend to do it properly on a driveway. As I haven't got a driveway, I needed to wait until my brother in law was free for a weekend. Also need the weather to be good, and also need to be free myself. It's been a long wait! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_B Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Am I right in thinking the superlites will not suffer from the horrific brake squeal the dynalites give out? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geraintthomas Posted July 10, 2015 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 I think they do, but I'm sure you can get anti-squeal shims for them. Plus I'll use some grease on the pads, as there's no rubber seals to worry about so it'll be fine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie_B Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 Yeah I have been looking for shims online, seem to have found ones from the states for the dynalites, I will give them a go. I did buy universal ones from mintex that you cut to fit, but didn't think they made to much of a difference. But I kinda wrecked them when I took apart the calipers when thinking I had fooked them (its the rear caliper). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keef-b Posted July 10, 2015 Report Share Posted July 10, 2015 If you are using the stick on shims then be sure to have some ceratec too to smear along the top and bottom edges of the pads where they sit in the caliper or are in contact with the anti-squeal spring that is in some models. The two things combined will REDUCE the squeal but it'll will still give the odd chirp now and then. I never got the chance to try the metal shims from the states - would imagine they'd be an improvement over the stick ons. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ownleemee Posted July 11, 2015 Report Share Posted July 11, 2015 I have the Titanium shims from the USA on my Dynalites, it does make some difference but Ceratec is needed as well and yes they are still "Chirpy2 sometimes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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