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c.a.r.

What came in the Post Today?

Question

This is an idea I've stolen from another forum I used to use...

Rules are-

-If you've received something interesting for your Celica (be it big, or small) you post up an image. If it's obvious enough then there's no need for a description, or you could get people guessing...even just from the packaging if you so wish.

-Post up what you paid for it. This could be a bargain or RRP if you bought new or from auction, it helps indicate to other users the sort of price of things they may also wish to buy...

-Post up where you bought it from

To summarise- Pic, Price, Where?

I'll get the ball rolling (this just got delivered)...

KGrHqYOKpME3tfpzupFBOHc2OljDw_3.jpg

Car Audio Direct for £199...

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3,324 answers to this question

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Thank you loyal fans everywhere ..............and Dawn should win the italic neatest hand writing award.

I thought it was the all time excitement Sunday Ebay buy of 10 curtain hooks, as the saggy curtains were pissing me off, but No!!

Behold!!!

spoon1.jpg

Edited by daytona
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FOR SCIENCE!!!!!11111oneone

 

Today, in the post I received my el-cheapo MAF sensor and Coolant temperature sensor.  The replacement MAF is not an ebay jobbie but from a UK distributor who sells pretty decent quality aftermarket units.  Ive fitted sensors they have supplied to several cars over the years and not once ever had an issue.  The Coolant temperature sensor was from carparts4less (ECP) and is an intermotor branded unit.  MAF cost me £25 and CTS cost me a whopping £9

 

Neither of my existing sensors are outright bad, but sometimes I do get a MAF related CEL code even after its been cleaned. After 13 years and 130k miles I'm experimenting to see if I can increase my mpg a bit.  If they don't work out or die, ill just put my current factory ones back on. If both the new sensors work without issue that's the complete closed loop A/F sensor trio replaced as ive already done my pre-cat lambda.

 

If the rain holds off, ill swap them over tomorrow, then perform an ECU reset.  Ive got a reasonably long road trip planned for sunday which I can use as my mpg benchmark.  Ill also (hopefully) get to see the marvellous spoon that Daytona received :P

 

 

Edited by G.Lewarne

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33 minutes ago, Harry-Dave said:

Rear was £167.15. I'm debating giving it a further coating of hammerite or something to toughen it up before I ask for it to be fitted.

 

good idea, I would.  I would also spray a crap load of waxoil into the box section through the small gaps at the end

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i recognise that bumper :lol:


Can't thank you enough Al!

I'm waiting on a fibreglass kit for the c-one lip, and a new numberplate.

Cleaned up really well, just needs a title touch up and all good.

Thanks again mate

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No post, but nearly!

 

Went to Mr T to get oil filter for upcoming oil change.  £4,50, not bad. Enquired about prices of "their" oil, was given price of £49 for 5l of fully synth Toyota 5w40.  Nearly choked on my free coffee in the waiting area.  All I said was that's quite pricey, parts guy said how much do I normally pay?  I had to think quickly, wasn't prepared for that and didn't want to take the pi$$ so said £29.  Got the oil for £29.  RESULT

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Not exactly in the post as I went and collected these from PB Polishers
 
In the words of KayLee, Shiny.
IMG_0158.JPG


Snap :)
3.jpg
Did they tell you how to look after it mate. There's dos and donts with professionally polished stuff?

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

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2 hours ago, Jim881 said:

 


Snap :)
3.jpg
Did they tell you how to look after it mate. There's dos and donts with professionally polished stuff?

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk
 

 

Snap? hmm, more like I'm a blatant copycat :D After seeing yours I decided I needed something like that in my engine bay.

 

Umm, No they didn't give me any special instruction so please share if you have some :)

 

Also I am guessing that the polishes that did yours used something special to get into their important little places, and it wasn't a Q-Tip cotton bud.

 

Total cost for all 3 parts was £120 which I thought was pretty good considering the amount of hours I would have to put in to get anything even remotely close.

 

Edited by Freeman558

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That's a decent price mate. I paid more but the bloke polished the whole thing.

Don't yes autosol whatever you do mate. It will scratch it. Get mags mother polish.

I'd steer well clear of putting any kind of coating whatsoever on any polished alloy. First of all, you don't know how it'll react to the metal, especially if you've applied some polish to it (also, a bodyshop would want to prep'/wipe over the part, probably scratching it in the process). Secondly, unless you can get a guarantee that it's heat-proof, you might get a reaction with it being under the bonnet. Thirdly, if you get a chip in the coating (from tightening a bolt, for instance), moisture WILL get under it; it'll then blister/creep further, and worse than that, it'll actually start corroding the alloy. Had the exact same problem with some bicycle crank arms - they'd been clear coated at the factory, it had worn away in places and the metal had started to be eaten away - it became a 'rescue' job rather than an outstanding one.

As for protecting it while you're not using the car, if it were mine, I'd let the engine go stone-cold, then apply a layer of polish to it, and leave it. Just remember to buff it off before you re-start the car! (Post-It note over the ignition barrel)

One other option would be to coat it with something like petroleum jelly (Vaseline), though I honestly don't know how it would react to alloy. I always used it on chrome when I was riding bikes all year round and it was great for keeping rust away. WD40 might be a safer option; might be worth trying it overnight sometime before you come to leave the car for a while. Try on a piece that isn't in your obvious eye-line when you lift the bonnet, that way, should it mark, it won't be obvious to someone else.

One thing; whatever you put on may have dust settle on it. Be very, very careful when wiping/buffing off; even dust can act as an abrasive. That may sound a bit daunting to keep it in top-nick, but bear in mind that when I talk about getting scratches in the work, I'm usually inspecting under very good lighting conditions, from about 6 inches away, and I know what I'm looking for. To anyone else looking at it, they may not even notice tiny marks, should you happen to get any.

Oh, and never buff in a circular motion; always go in the same direction where possible.

Don't mind you copying mate. Isn't this what it's all about. Getting ideas from other people

Sent from my SM-N910F using Tapatalk

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that is the best thing you could get in the post!...far better than my momo jet steering wheel that turned up yesterday. :thumbsup:

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