Alistair_GT

Yeah the 6 is the same. It's just a small rubber washer, the holder itself is steel. The maz pumps are mounted in a big 4 inch wide rubber donut, in a plastic housing with the pickup filter at the bottom. The mount is inside the housing, so if it disintegrates...straight into the pump it goes.

No rubber fuel pump holders in any celica tanks afaik, it was a Maserati 3200 GT. I've looked at them from a few other 3200's that hadn't sat for a long time and they weren't really perished much at all. I think the maz was a worst case example, on most cars they don't mount the pump in rubber or sit the pump right at the bottom of the tank. But it did show what ethanol can do in cars that are not designed to use it. There may not have been any real problems with E5 as it's such a low amount, but maybe they start to surface with E10

Ethanol can damage rubber parts on older cars. I bought a none runner car a few years ago, the fuel pumps sat in a rubber holder in the tank. These had disintegrated, been sucked into the pumps and wrecked them. As far as I know it was due to the ethanol, settling to the bottom of the tank and destroying the rubber as the car had stood for a year. Esso have just released a new supreme 99. In most areas of the country it contains no nasty ethanol, just pure dino juice. Ideal for older cars and Jap imports. I'll be using that in the faff from now on, as I have a Esso garage round the corner.

I have KYB shocks and Teins springs on mine. There isn't much choice of anything else now except coilovers. KYB make the genuine shocks, so they are probably the same as genuine but in a different box. They do come with new upper ball joints as well. 37mm may sound like a lot but it's not. Bare in mind if yours is on the original 25 year old springs they will have sagged quite a lot, it probably won't end up much lower than it is now. Mine doesn't look any lower than yours in your pic. On the back plates, iirc the fronts are available and aren't crazy money. Rears are obsolete.

As above. Pattern part steel exhausts tends to be garbage.

Don't worry, it'll be fine. Mine is up and running now, didn't run for about 5 months. Usually start it up occasionally but couldn't this time as I took the front pipe off...didn't think it would take 3 months for the new one to arrive I put some fresh fuel in, and same as Arizona I disconnected the coil so I could spin the engine over a few times without firing, get some oil pumped round first. Connected it back up and fired up straight away, runs perfect. The battery even held it's charge for 5 months while disconnected.

This turned up from Japan. Many jdm cool points.

I only agree with the bit about heat beating anything in a tin. Even an inaccurate test will show this, as the difference heat makes is huge. It's not a video about heat vs spray though is it, it's comparing different sprays. I don't agree with his conclusion that 'Liquid Wrench is the best spray', because in my opinion his testing methods are nowhere near accurate enough. As you rightly say, it's not easy to test them. The difference between all these sprays is probably very small, so it would require highly accurate testing to determine the best one. Not something a guy in his shed can do.

The 'test data' you mention is some guy doing a rubbish video on Youtube I wouldn't base anything on that at all. It isn't a proper scientific test with controlled conditions done in a lab is it now, his results are all over the place. Can't be sure each bolt is rusted exactly the same amount. His torque results could be totally wrong as he's removing them by hand not by a machine that can repeat the removal procedure the same every time. Even his torque wrench could be inaccurate, no mention if it's been calibrated or not. There's many variables that can skew the results. I use Euro car parts 'maintenance spray'. It's ok, doesn't do a lot with rusted bolts but not much does in my opinion and it's dirt cheap. None of these fancy expensive sprays will come close to heating with a gas torch or induction heater. At least he did show that in the video.

It's so much fun isn't it. There's a big hill near where I work and everyone except 4x4s gets stuck on it when it snows. I just breeze past on the wrong side of the road, laughing my ass off at the 'we don't need winter tyres in the UK' people Even if something comes the other way I pull back in, then do a hill start on snow...no problem On a BMW I don't know how anyone drives them in winter on summer tyres. I used to have an E36, no LSD at the back, it was pretty much undriveable in snow without them.

On my celicas I always tend to go for Japanese made tyres. On the faff I have Toyo T1R, can't really fault them, made in Japan and I like the directional tread patterns. I only drive the car in summer though. Used to have Falken FK452 on my last celica, made in Japan again and I really liked them. They were discontinued though and replaced by the FK453. Don't like the boring non directional tread pattern though that look like something you'd fit on a van, so switched to the Toyo. On my daily (Avensis T180) I've just put my winter tyres on, Toyo Snowprox. I have a second set of the original alloys, so I can just swap the front wheels over with the winters on. I really rate winter tyres, the car goes from undrivable in snow to unstoppable. The gritters round here tend to be missing in action when it actually snows, and everywhere grinds to a halt. With winters on I can take the back lanes where no one dares to go, avoiding the traffic, or get a huge amount of enjoyment dodging past people who are stuck because they have the wrong tyres on

How odd. It's an issue I've heard of, but only on cars stored on driveways for long periods, usually over winter. My dads Maserati lives in a double garage and comes out about twice a year...never happened on that yet

That won't happen in a dry garage though, only outside in the damp. And I doubt holding the clutch depressed does it any good at all over time...probably weakens the springs in the pressure plate.

Our Mercedes Sprinter van at work had the cat/dpf stolen, they just unbolted the whole exhaust and did away with it. Must of taken them about a minute, was only held on with 3 bolts and a few rubber mounts that they chopped off. Merc wanted £3500 for a new one, and insurance wanted to write the van off We fitted a cheap shitty aftermarket cat/dpf, gutted it so it was hollow and had them mapped out. Never happened again, thieves don't want aftermarket cats only oem ones as the cheapo ones have bugger all precious metal in them (hence them being so cheap) As others have said though, celica ones aren't worth much and not easy to access so they won't bother. But decat it anyway

Mine is garaged over winter every year, the only things I do is leave the handbrake off and disconnect the battery. I start it up and run it every few months, and then change the oil and fill up with a jerry can full of fresh fuel in the spring before taking it out. Storing in a garage is totally different to storing outside...it will drive out after 6 months exactly the same as when it went in. Nothing goes mouldy, rusty or seizes up. I don't put it on axle stands or wheel cradles, not had any issues with tyre flat spots...and a set of tyres lasts me 10 + years

Alongside Jimmylegs faff @ Cars In the Park Litchfield show a few months ago.

As Digs says. E56 is pretty much a GT4 box with the transfer box missing and blanked off. It's much stronger, bigger and heavier than the S54. Ideal for 3sgte or V6 conversions - but pointless on a 3sge. The s54 is plenty good enough and much lighter. Spot had an E56 on his supercharged V6 celica...held that no problem. They are a very strong box.

Pic 4: Bottom of the air intake hose (between throttle body and airbox) there is a metal hose connector. Pic 3: Vent/breathers..not attached to anything. Pic 2: Nope. That plug is for the aircon pump (not connected if car has no AC) Pic 1: Lambda sensor. The plug for it is high up at the back of the engine. Screw it into the hole in the exhaust downpipe, then look directly above. The plug should be attached to a small bracket (stops the cable dropping onto the hot exhaust)

Along those lines, check MOT history, anything that mentions corrosion is usually rubbish underneath. And don't buy anything from Scotland or from coastal towns. I find that usually low milers are better, less use in winter is always a bonus. Unless they've been kept somewhere damp like on grass or under trees (big no no) The best ones are those kept in a dry garage not outside, and those that are not used in winter. The #1 tip...buy a Japanese import that hasn't been in this shithole country for long . There's still rubbish out there (usually from northern Japan or coastal towns, again) but there's a lot of very clean ones too. There are 25 year old Jap imports that look literally like new underneath...their climate is so much better than ours.

I can recommend Torque GT. My dad has just imported a Toyota Landcruiser with them and they have been very good. If I remember right you have to put a refundable deposit down and then they will search for exactly what you are looking for, and give you access to their Japanese Auction site so you can look yourself.

Yep. It used to be chavs in corsas with straight through exhausts, but they have been completely trumped by these 'pop and bang' remaps that seem to be popular now. I find mainly on Fiesta and Focus ST's (the new chav weapon of choice). Really pees me off, there's absolutely no need to make such an offensive noise.

I use a filter strap, one of the draper ones in the link. The only issue with them is the webbing is a bit thin and stretches...I replaced the webbing with thicker & stronger polyester. It's 10 years old now and still going strong, never failed to get a filter off on all manner of different cars. Also it's nice and small so works on filters that are buried in daft places....a lot of the ones listed on here only work on filters with clear space around them https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Oil-Filter-Strap-Wrench-Remover-Removal-Installer-Tool-Nylon-Strap-1-2-Drive/401746733512?hash=item5d89f8a9c8:g:bt4AAOSwl2xcrZI1

Yep, about 2-3 years is all you get out of a Klarius. I've only bought one as I'm selling the car, makes no sense to put something good on as GTs are worth so little I always tend to buy stainless, either off the shelf or have one made by powerflow etc. I don't bother with Genuine as they are always silly money. Had a complete turbo back stainless made for my Landcruiser for less than Toyota wanted for just the middle and back section...

That's good then. I'll make sure I check it over thoroughly after fitting, I can always weld the seams up if they leak. Klarius exhausts aren't the best quality wise but they are cheap, I've fitted a few to various cars and usually they're ok.

Managed fit this yet? I've just bought a Klarius exhaust for my GT (selling the car and putting it back to standard) and i'll be pi**ed if it sounds like that. Got it dirt cheap as the factory is round the corner from me and I know someone who works there so got it on staff discount. Looks quite nice for a standard exhaust, shiny stainless tip and everything.